Re: Honda CBR 250R

Loud pipes actually save lives.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hearing loss though.

Cover enough miles in a day and you'll realize that even some helmets wont suit your taste due to varying levels of wind noise.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Not our cbr , a twin 300cc plus with a dB killer, honestly I've ridden a z800 with a SC project without the dB killer, only if u got to the midrange bike sounded a wee bit loud but the low rpm moving was a sweet base, you just need to smooth throttle, also I rode a cbr 250 with a race fairing and full arrow, it wasn't too loud unless I revved it.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

The fairings got dislocated from the original place, the gear shift bent, windscreen fairing bent inside and more to check. Inspection will be done tomorrow of the suspensions, cone set and all. Hoping for the best.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I do the same, drop down the gear while braking. But it can't be done when you've got an obstacle approx. Two arms reach from you.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I agree to it too. But CBR 250 with an after market exhaust isn't worth much. Plus mostly it sounds like KTM's which I am not a fan of.
I would've got the yoshimura Alpha T if I had a CBR 650f. It sounds lovely and much better on those inline 4.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Yes, losing speed in a straight line is what I try to do too. An Indian traffic cop once mentioned that most people try to swerve away when faced with an obstacle they can't avoid hitting. That causes much more severe accidents than if they had just braked and rammed the obstacle at a lower speed. Ive been collecting information on this for the past year, going through accident reports, and I realise, 90% of the time, he is right. It's good to see an experienced biker follow the same line of thinking. Means I'm on the right track.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Only Racefit and SC project will save lives in indian traffic JK

Anyways, i'm back with an update on brake fade issue. (for those wo don't know, i no longer use my bike daily, busted fork seal, fork oil was all over brake disc, washed brake disc but no bite until i brake hard 6-7 times. then brake bite becomes normal)

I am fed up with brake fade issue, its dangerous now. Before i go for brake pad replacement. I'd like to ask you guys something that has come up in my mind. Earlier i was using my bike for daily commute. Brake was perfect till then. But since last 1 months. I have stopped using it daily and take it out only once a week. First week when it was sitting idle and busted its fork seal. I thought brake fade is due to oil on the disc. But it doesn't answer why it still lacks bite after washing disc and pads thoroughly 4 times. And how come it regains braking power after braking hard for 6-7 times. So question is: Is it possible that due to bike sitting idle, dust or rust may be accumulating on the outer layer of brake disc which compromises brake effectiveness? It felt like a reason since bike regains brake effectiveness after braking hard 6-7 times. Works fine for that day, but next week, it would start with a faded front brake (i have to use all four fingers to get good braking at front during initial 1-5 hard brakes.

Do any of you guys who leave their bikes unused for long period of time, face similar issue?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

can you try with brake pads from another cbr and check if they are the culprit? if yours is non abs you have cheaper options for brake pads that you can plonk in and give it a try. if this still doesn't work out you could do these two things:
first get the old brake fluid out and add in fresh fluid and bleed the lines. then tie the brake lever down with a rope and leave it overnight (so that any air in the line slowly rises up and into the mc)
start riding the bike over the next few days and see how it goes.
if it still doesn't solve your problem, then get the caliper and master cylinder overhauled and maybe replace the parts that come as a repair kit for the caliper and mc (essentially the piston/seals etc..). btw overhauling means dismantling everything, inspecting, replacing worn/damaged parts and putting them back.. and make sure the caliper pin is greased too.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Damns that under 2 mt's, you need at least 5 mt's to even incite reaction when riding at a decent speed.

Guess all that is left is to to count your blessings and ride on. And do presume that out of every blind spot an idiot would emerge, riding in India is like Bharatanatyam,

"Your motorcycle should only go as far as your sight takes you"

Good to know that I'm on the right track, came up with the notion after reading on the newspaper of an incident where a motorcyclist was run over by a state transport bus when he swerved to avoid a pothole, which is another reason why I don't try to avoid potholes, or even brake for that matter as when you brake before encountering a pothole you put your suspension, bearings and chassis in a compromised position.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Hi. I use 3M brake cleaners to keep the bite in check. You can try that too. Apply at night for best result.
Firstly remove the brake pads and get the calipers adjusted. Clean brake pads and rotors with the brake cleaner and wipe it clean with a clean soft cloth. You should see the amount of dust you've got on those.
When you are home spray the brake cleaner on the pads while it is attached to the calipers and wipe the excess that has dropped to the rotor and the wheels and leave the pads to dry until morning.
This should help you get the bite issue solved.
Cheers [emoji111]

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Brake lever losing pressure for a parked bike is normal, where it usually gains composure with one press and the pressure is back, but shouldn't be extremely spongy where it requires pressing the brake repeatedly to build pressure, if such is the case, we have air in line which must be removed. Check if your bleeder nut is loose. A loose bleeder nut would suck in air and cause pressure fluctuations. This occurs also due to the brake oil being used has been sitting for a long time and brake oil grades being mixed up unknowingly as this reduces their efficiency of not being compressible to compressible which means you have brake pressure loss, both are which are dangerous and can lose pressure when you least expect especially air in line.

Thirdly and very importantly check your front master cylinder piston. A failed master cylinder piston would mean the the caliper and the lines aren't being pressurized to maintain enough pressure. Master cylinder kits are available (hoping it's a non-ABS) which is a cheap proposition. Rust has nothing to do with braking ability unless a rotor is extremely rusted and pitted. Rust accumulation on the rotor face goes away with the application of brakes, so that's not a problem per se. A brake pad which has little to no friction material would obviously extend the piston way beyond and this would mean the lever becoming spongy.

1. Bleed the lines first thoroughly.
2. Check the master cylinder piston whether it's creating adequate pressure.
3. Make sure your caliper piston is cleaned and caliper pins greased
4. USE DOT 4 BRAKE OIL
5. Make sure your BLEEER NUT is tightened properly
6. Check your brake pad condition.
6. Keep your observations posted here.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Honda CBR 250R

how can one check that theres no air left in the system?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Lever feedback, if its spongy then there's either air or your seal's are on their way out.

Air bubbles can get tricky, you would need to tap the banjo's on both ends with anything blunt to get those tricky bubbles out while bleeding.

There's a more passive means of getting this done by using a zip-tie, just zip-tie the brake lever overnight, the trapped bubbles come up into the reservoir and your lines are clear.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

reservoir means the master cylinder?
Also if I do this the air would escape automatically?
Will i have to leave master cylinder or bleeder screw open overnight?
Because i believe that the system is air sealed
From where would the air escape?
Please throw some light on this.