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Honda CBR 250R

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  • Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
    Use OEM bar ends for both the sides, it does make a difference. Using OEM weight on the one end and a different weight on the other side, would not make for a smooth balancing. In fact, some frequency vibes can get amplified, if the weights aren't balanced. So, make sure the right OEM weights are used and installed correctly.

    Cheers!
    VJ
    I am using aluminium bar ends compared to the plastic ones I've had on the handle grips, definitely makes a difference but may switch back to stock for better feel, but the weight can be felt while tipping the bike or lane splitting. Also I have zeroed in on the aracer rc5 mini which costs about 6100 baht i.e around 14 grand which is a bit cheaper than the powertronics one. Also noticed one more thing, bike runs much smoother when the engine heats up like not the overheating way. I can say I've gotten used to the power of the exhaust and the db killer makes it the perfect sound, not too loud to disturb people and loud enough to let some blind ones to know your behind them before they make a sudden u turn or cut or take a turn without indicating. Going to use a afr meter to check whether bike running too rich or lean soon. Will get the ecu only by September or October soo may swap back to stock. I know I'll get some comments like engine reliability will go and all that. I'm perfectly fine with that. I plan to run the bike on the road for another couple of years or 20-30k km at the most before making a track day bike. Bikes odo is at 56k km at present. Would like to add, doing the afr testing along side the new Suzuki gixxer sf 250 which is being tested fir the afr for the one make races.
    Last edited by Deathwing; 08-15-2019, 02:53 AM.

    Comment


    • Re: Honda CBR 250R

      Did that. But the Buzzing is still there starting from 4k rpm. And that also in the left side handle bar only. Should i check the engine mounts? The chances of loose engine mounts in the left side is a huge probability. Thats the only thing left to check
      Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
      Use OEM bar ends for both the sides, it does make a difference. Using OEM weight on the one end and a different weight on the other side, would not make for a smooth balancing. In fact, some frequency vibes can get amplified, if the weights aren't balanced. So, make sure the right OEM weights are used and installed correctly.

      Cheers!
      VJ

      Comment


      • Re: Honda CBR 250R

        Originally posted by Deathwing View Post
        I am using aluminium bar ends compared to the plastic ones I've had on the handle grips, definitely makes a difference but may switch back to stock for better feel, but the weight can be felt while tipping the bike or lane splitting. Also I have zeroed in on the aracer rc5 mini which costs about 6100 baht i.e around 14 grand which is a bit cheaper than the powertronics one. Also noticed one more thing, bike runs much smoother when the engine heats up like not the overheating way. I can say I've gotten used to the power of the exhaust and the db killer makes it the perfect sound, not too loud to disturb people and loud enough to let some blind ones to know your behind them before they make a sudden u turn or cut or take a turn without indicating. Going to use a afr meter to check whether bike running too rich or lean soon. Will get the ecu only by September or October soo may swap back to stock. I know I'll get some comments like engine reliability will go and all that. I'm perfectly fine with that. I plan to run the bike on the road for another couple of years or 20-30k km at the most before making a track day bike. Bikes odo is at 56k km at present. Would like to add, doing the afr testing along side the new Suzuki gixxer sf 250 which is being tested fir the afr for the one make races.
        Don't bother about the engine reliability, because there's always a compromise. But one thing I'd just recommend is, if you plan to use it as a daily driver, at least for the foreseeable future, keep the engine and other parameters as stock. Probably, then you can do full modifications for your track day. When you get the Aracer RC5 and the AFR tuner, do keep us posted on your observations, an apples to apples or an apples to oranges comparison i.e. Gixxer 250 in this case. Good luck.

        Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
        Did that. But the Buzzing is still there starting from 4k rpm. And that also in the left side handle bar only. Should i check the engine mounts? The chances of loose engine mounts in the left side is a huge probability. Thats the only thing left to check
        Why not! If that's the only thing that hasn't been inspected, there's nothing wrong in inspecting the foundation bolts for proper torque, I'd recommend it in fact. But vibrations at particular RPMs won't mean a loose engine mount bolts, as single cylinders do have vibes at a particular RPM, up or down the rev range, post which they run smooth. Some CBRs do mildly buzz at the 4.5k to 6k RPM and then settle well. Keep your observations posted.

        Cheers!
        VJ
        Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
        The girl said, 'NO!'


        And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


        THE END

        Comment


        • Re: Honda CBR 250R

          Originally posted by jatints View Post
          Guys i need battery recommendations for my CBR250R
          I read on Internet its 6ah but in the bike its 7ah exide battery,

          Shall i stick with exide or switch to amaron?
          Also someone tell what is the recommended battery 6ah or 7ah

          I checked the idle voltage in battery the meter is showing 14.5, is this normal or less?
          try to stick to the recommended battery, 12v 6Ah when its easily available.
          what is the battery model in the bike currently ? is it the Exide Xplore XLTZ7.. if so it is 6Ah only.
          your battery voltage reading seems ok.. how old is the battery ? usually a load test will give a better picture of battery health.. your svc should be able to help you load test it. using just voltage readings might be misleading especially if the battery is more than a couple of yrs old and/or you are facing cranking trouble.

          Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
          The stock battery of the CBR 250R is 12v6Ah, EXIDE. You can swap to 12v7Ah APBTZ7L which is a direct for the CBR's the battery box. Higher the amps the better. Go for AMARON.

          Cheers!
          VJ
          APBTZ7L is a 12V 6Ah battery not 12V 7Ah. The number 7 doesn't really mean it is 7Ah.. there are other batteries (even from other manufacturers) that are rated one lower than the number.. example: Amaron APBTZ9R (8 Ah) ,SF Sonic MK1440-TZ9 (8 Ah),Exide FXL0-XLTZ9 (8 Ah), Exide Xplore XLTZ7 (6Ah)

          Comment


          • Re: Honda CBR 250R

            But the vibrations that i am experiencing now is not normal for sure. This is my second cbr . First one was a 2011 model non abs one. That was really vibe free compared to this one. So i dont think this normal. And also this phenomenon started recently before that it was completely normal
            Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
            Don't bother about the engine reliability, because there's always a compromise. But one thing I'd just recommend is, if you plan to use it as a daily driver, at least for the foreseeable future, keep the engine and other parameters as stock. Probably, then you can do full modifications for your track day. When you get the Aracer RC5 and the AFR tuner, do keep us posted on your observations, an apples to apples or an apples to oranges comparison i.e. Gixxer 250 in this case. Good luck.



            Why not! If that's the only thing that hasn't been inspected, there's nothing wrong in inspecting the foundation bolts for proper torque, I'd recommend it in fact. But vibrations at particular RPMs won't mean a loose engine mount bolts, as single cylinders do have vibes at a particular RPM, up or down the rev range, post which they run smooth. Some CBRs do mildly buzz at the 4.5k to 6k RPM and then settle well. Keep your observations posted.

            Cheers!
            VJ

            Comment


            • Re: Honda CBR 250R

              Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
              But the vibrations that i am experiencing now is not normal for sure. This is my second cbr . First one was a 2011 model non abs one. That was really vibe free compared to this one. So i dont think this normal. And also this phenomenon started recently before that it was completely normal
              Though I can suggest you to check this and check that, which is easier for me sitting here, unless we can actually ride the bike and observe and feel it, it's really hard to pin point a specific reason for the vibration Pavi. Poor quality fuel and too thick an oil grade too can cause vibrations, with the latter actually having a high probability. I hope you have the right grade of oil used. How much has your motorcycle run? When was it last serviced and did you remove the plugs recently?

              Originally posted by s1d View Post
              APBTZ7L is a 12V 6Ah battery not 12V 7Ah. The number 7 doesn't really mean it is 7Ah.. there are other batteries (even from other manufacturers) that are rated one lower than the number..
              The generator of the CBR 250r is able to charge even a 7Ah battery without any problem. And yes, Exide has one amp lower than the battery series they have on their stickers, XLTZ/FTZ7 = 6Ah XLTZ/FTZ 9 =8Ah in case of the Duke battery I am referring here. The CBR can use both 9th and 7Ah batteries, but the 9Ah requires modifying the battery cage. The APBTZ7L is a 7Ah battery and not 6Ah battery and is a direct if to the CBR's battery cage.

              Cheers!
              VJ
              Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
              The girl said, 'NO!'


              And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


              THE END

              Comment


              • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                The generator of the CBR 250r is able to charge even a 7Ah battery without any problem. And yes, Exide has one amp lower than the battery series they have on their stickers, XLTZ/FTZ7 = 6Ah XLTZ/FTZ 9 =8Ah in case of the Duke battery I am referring here. The CBR can use both 9th and 7Ah batteries, but the 9Ah requires modifying the battery cage. The APBTZ7L is a 7Ah battery and not 6Ah battery and is a direct if to the CBR's battery cage.
                the generator is probably able to handle a bigger battery.. no issues.

                the apbtz7L is still a 6Ah battery, (just like the APBTZ9R for the ktm bikes which is a 8Ah not 9Ah.. i have used both exide and amaron my duke).. they have a different series for the 7 and 9Ah models.
                the dimensions of a 7 and 9ah are also slightly different than the 6 Ah(which measures 113-70-130mm) and 8Ah (150-87-105mm) variants. these dimensions are kinda standard across manufacturers. since you have a cbr maybe you could probably show us the pic of the amaron battery or measure its dimensions and let us know.


                above link is the official online reseller for amaron batteries.

                Comment


                • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                  Originally posted by s1d View Post
                  the generator is probably able to handle a bigger battery.. no issues.
                  I don't have the dimensions as such measured, I am still running on my stock EXIDE battery, which is 4.5 years and no problem whatsoever. In fact, I've recommended Amaron BTZ7L to many CBR owners and they are running without a fuss. Case in point, here's one from our own thread, luckily. It's a 7Ah battery, which was clearly mentioned in the Amaron warranty card also for the CBRs. Check, Flipkart, Amazon, and few other places where they clearly mention it as 7Ah.


                  There is another battery which also is Beta Series AP-BTX7R and a 7ah, reason this battery can't be swapped though is due to the pole direction in the CBR. In the Dukes, you have -ve on the left and +ve on the right. On the CBR, it's the reverse, +ve on the left and -ve on the right, I hope you got the difference.

                  Cheers!
                  VJ
                  Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                  The girl said, 'NO!'


                  And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                  THE END

                  Comment


                  • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                    Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                    I don't have the dimensions as such measured, I am still running on my stock EXIDE battery, which is 4.5 years and no problem whatsoever. In fact, I've recommended Amaron BTZ7L to many CBR owners and they are running without a fuss. Case in point, here's one from our own thread, luckily. It's a 7Ah battery, which was clearly mentioned in the Amaron warranty card also for the CBRs. Check, Flipkart, Amazon, and few other places where they clearly mention it as 7Ah.


                    There is another battery which also is Beta Series AP-BTX7R and a 7ah, reason this battery can't be swapped though is due to the pole direction in the CBR. In the Dukes, you have -ve on the left and +ve on the right. On the CBR, it's the reverse, +ve on the left and -ve on the right, I hope you got the difference.

                    Cheers!
                    VJ
                    where is the pic of the warranty card which shows it as 7Ah ? i don't see a see one on the thread you posted.. there is just the picture of the battery.
                    i've shown you the link for the official online retailer of amaron which clearly gives the specs of the btz7L battery as 6Ah.
                    i did not mention that the btz7L will cause a fuss.. just clarifying on its spec. it is the same spec as oem and hence a direct fit.

                    the 7ah battery is indeed the btx7r.. and the reason it is not a direct fit physically is its dimensions.

                    anyway i see no point in taking this discussion further, so i shall stop here.

                    if anybody else is interested in clarifying this further pl do pm me or reply to this post.

                    Comment


                    • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                      Bike odo currently stands at 27k kms. Engine oil changed only 1k km before. I am using shell advance ultra 10w40
                      Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                      Though I can suggest you to check this and check that, which is easier for me sitting here, unless we can actually ride the bike and observe and feel it, it's really hard to pin point a specific reason for the vibration Pavi. Poor quality fuel and too thick an oil grade too can cause vibrations, with the latter actually having a high probability. I hope you have the right grade of oil used. How much has your motorcycle run? When was it last serviced and did you remove the plugs recently?



                      The generator of the CBR 250r is able to charge even a 7Ah battery without any problem. And yes, Exide has one amp lower than the battery series they have on their stickers, XLTZ/FTZ7 = 6Ah XLTZ/FTZ 9 =8Ah in case of the Duke battery I am referring here. The CBR can use both 9th and 7Ah batteries, but the 9Ah requires modifying the battery cage. The APBTZ7L is a 7Ah battery and not 6Ah battery and is a direct if to the CBR's battery cage.

                      Cheers!
                      VJ

                      Comment


                      • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                        Originally posted by s1d View Post
                        where is the pic of the warranty card which shows it as 7Ah ? i don't see a see one on the thread you posted.. there is just the picture of the battery.
                        i've shown you the link for the official online retailer of amaron which clearly gives the specs of the btz7L battery as 6Ah.
                        i did not mention that the btz7L will cause a fuss.. just clarifying on its spec. it is the same spec as oem and hence a direct fit.
                        anyway i see no point in taking this
                        The right points won't make a fuss Sid I appreciate that. The warranty card I mentioned wasn't in the post but rather which I could have shared, which I didn't bother since it was a tried and tested battery, also people will get confused when they buy a battery only to find their poles interchanged, and then returned it back to get the batt I mentioned. Happened to us.

                        But, even if it's a 6Ah it very well is the stock battery and perfectly fits the CBR, so I think it's definitely a win-win.

                        Or people can still get the XLTZ7 Xplore 6Ah from Exide which is a genuine 6Ah.

                        But if you can, do post the details of anything you have with respect to this, so that it helps us everybody and also help clear the misconception.

                        Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
                        Bike odo currently stands at 27k kms. Engine oil changed only 1k km before. I am using shell advance ultra 10w40
                        Try using Shell AX7 not ultra,10w30 and check if it helps. Also, check your spark plug cap for proper tightness with the ignition lead, and spark plug and clean if necessary and or replace.

                        Try Shell V power if you have to and see if it helps..

                        Cheers!
                        VJ
                        Last edited by B7ACKTHORN; 08-17-2019, 12:17 PM.
                        Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                        The girl said, 'NO!'


                        And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                        THE END

                        Comment


                        • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                          Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
                          Bike odo currently stands at 27k kms. Engine oil changed only 1k km before. I am using shell advance ultra 10w40
                          Shell advanced ultra 10W40 is good for sedate riding. But if you are someone who likes to push the bike to its limit, I suggest you switch to Motul 7100 10W40. Also use higher octane fuel / premium fuel for better riding.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                            Originally posted by Ave2592 View Post
                            Shell advanced ultra 10W40 is good for sedate riding. But if you are someone who likes to push the bike to its limit, I suggest you switch to Motul 7100 10W40. Also use higher octane fuel / premium fuel for better riding.
                            Would also like to add liqui moly street 10w40 , bike runs very smooth despite me riding hard daily.

                            Comment


                            • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                              Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                              Don't bother about the engine reliability, because there's always a compromise. But one thing I'd just recommend is, if you plan to use it as a daily driver, at least for the foreseeable future, keep the engine and other parameters as stock. Probably, then you can do full modifications for your track day. When you get the Aracer RC5 and the AFR tuner, do keep us posted on your observations, an apples to apples or an apples to oranges comparison i.e. Gixxer 250 in this case. Good luck.



                              Why not! If that's the only thing that hasn't been inspected, there's nothing wrong in inspecting the foundation bolts for proper torque, I'd recommend it in fact. But vibrations at particular RPMs won't mean a loose engine mount bolts, as single cylinders do have vibes at a particular RPM, up or down the rev range, post which they run smooth. Some CBRs do mildly buzz at the 4.5k to 6k RPM and then settle well. Keep your observations posted.

                              Cheers!
                              VJ
                              Funny you say this, bike is actually running cooler,I'm not sure if it's the engine ice or the exhaust. Because in ktms the stock exhaust tend Hold a lot of heat, therefore heats up more in traffic and other situations. This additional heat also affects the rear shock believe it or not ,hence KTM shocks go kaputt sooner . I know I need to remap my bike , I'm not really worried about reliability because this engine can take a lot of stress than it was designed for. Only time will tell , as of now I'm really enjoying the bike , low end torque and mid range has really improved. Top end as well without the ecu but I guess that's down to the airfilter.

                              Comment


                              • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                                Originally posted by Deathwing View Post
                                Funny you say this, bike is actually running cooler,I'm not sure if it's the engine ice or the exhaust. Because in ktms the stock exhaust tend Hold a lot of heat, therefore heats up more in traffic and other situations. This additional heat also affects the rear shock believe it or not ,hence KTM shocks go kaputt sooner . I know I need to remap my bike , I'm not really worried about reliability because this engine can take a lot of stress than it was designed for. Only time will tell , as of now I'm really enjoying the bike , low end torque and mid range has really improved. Top end as well without the ecu but I guess that's down to the airfilter.
                                Hondas for the most part are in fact over-engineered, at least yesteryear. You're very right about the KTM part of the equation, the heat was the nemesis to the rear shocker causing it to go softer due to the fluid getting heated up and hence leaks over time. Though the newer ones do a good job when it comes to heat insulation, it still can and will leak given the wrong circumstances. If your bike is running cool, that's good, that is unless you see any increase in the temp gauge readings. If all is well, don't bother altering or re-doing anything unnecessary.

                                And do keep this thread posted with the ARACER upgrade, if and when you have the time.

                                Ride safe!

                                Cheers!
                                VJ
                                Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                                The girl said, 'NO!'


                                And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                                THE END

                                Comment

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