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Honda CBR 250R

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  • Re: Honda CBR 250R

    Originally posted by JoshAraujo View Post
    Will an H4 LED headlight unit (like a Cyclops or Night Eye) fit into the socket for those little lights on the side of the main headlight? I dont know if theyre DRLs or what? That'd end up with three separate headlight units in the front end of the bike. Yeah I know its a crazy idea, but is it possible?
    It is crazy and not possible.

    Comment


    • Re: Honda CBR 250R

      Originally posted by psr View Post
      The Pictures confirm that the Rear Brake pad is indeed a bit worn...it is worn more than 60% . Before changing pads, Please do check if the floating caliper is jamming and also check free movement of the Brake Pistons in the Caliper ....either one of them is stuck or there is a tendency for the rider to rest his foot on the foot brake pedal causing mild application of brake all the time.
      Absolutely correct PSR sir.

      Comment


      • Re: Honda CBR 250R

        Originally posted by psr View Post
        The Pictures confirm that the Rear Brake pad is indeed a bit worn...it is worn more than 60% . Before changing pads, Please do check if the floating caliper is jamming and also check free movement of the Brake Pistons in the Caliper ....either one of them is stuck or there is a tendency for the rider to rest his foot on the foot brake pedal causing mild application of brake all the time.
        Thank you psr Sir for the figure 60%. Your reputation precedes you

        I don't rest the foot on the brakes and don't do sudden brakes. For comparison, my 8 years / 24000km old Suzuki GS150r is still running on stock rear drum brake and front disc brake pads ( with grooves intact ) without need of any brakes servicing.

        I see this as an opportunity to learn something new. Is there any easy DIY test to check floating caliper or brake pistons jamming on cbr250? Can I expect a rear wheel drag if the bike is put on a center stand ( which is not there ) or a paddock. Or brake caliper jamming is more subtle that it goes unnoticed.
        Last edited by cbr250abs; 09-29-2019, 04:18 PM.

        Comment


        • Re: Honda CBR 250R

          Originally posted by cbr250abs View Post
          Thank you psr Sir for the figure 60%. Your reputation precedes you

          I don't rest the foot on the brakes and don't do sudden brakes. For comparison, my 8 years / 24000km old Suzuki GS150r is still running on stock rear drum brake and front disc brake pads ( with grooves intact ) without need of any brakes servicing.

          I see this as an opportunity to learn something new. Is there any easy DIY test to check floating caliper or brake pistons jamming on cbr250? Can I expect a rear wheel drag if the bike is put on a center stand ( which is not there ) or a paddock. Or brake caliper jamming is more subtle that it goes unnoticed.
          My reputation if at all any, is due to my careful following of what members share ,and educate me...Since you have ruled out your side of the problem , ie., not resting foot on brake pedal, the other option is to check the free movement of floating caliper and brake Pistons....if you have paddock stand the put the bike on paddock and rotate the rear wheel, In the direction of normal rotation...there should be no binding...if it is there, then with rubber or plastic hammer gently tap on the caliper from out side towards the other direction..if this frees up the wheel then you should suspect the floating caliper...now while wheel is rotated, apply rear brake and see if binding comes back...if it does the repeat the procedure and observe....
          For clarifying on Pistons, you have to dismantle the caliper from it's fixing and try to push the Pistons with hand..if it moves inward then it is not stuck...if it does not, then clean the surface around the pistons and apply Brake oil around it, then using a "C" clamp try to push the Piston in...after pushing it in, apply rear brake SLIGHTLY...with less pressure ..you will see the piston coming out...repeat till piston can be pushed with pressure from hand.....Please be careful while applying pressure on foot pedal since a little excess can push the pistons all the way out , and would require laborious work of putting it back....
          You can attempt this only if you are technically inclined to it..if in doubt, better to get it done with ASC under your eyes, or any Good mech you know.
          Please be aware that it is safety related and no compromise in quality of work or material used is allowable..
          Use only Dot 4 brake oil..
          Last edited by psr; 09-30-2019, 10:10 AM.
          When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

          Comment


          • Re: Honda CBR 250R

            Just adding my take as I had overhauled my caliper not long ago.
            [MENTION=104193]cbr250abs[/MENTION]

            1. Use the pedal to push the caliper out, it takes quite a few pumps to get the thing fairly out and you'd have to pull it out manually from there, make sure not to score the piston unless you're overhauling with a Major OH Kit which also includes new pistons. Once the piston is almost out make sure to drain the system of fluid else there'd be a mess once the piston is out.

            2. Bend a safety pin to safely pry out the stock seals, there would 2 per piston. Once they're out push in new seals and make sure they seat well.

            3. Leverage the caliper on to a steady surface and then push the piston in, I used a 5inch expansion rod used with 1/2 sockets. Use body weight and it'd go in smoothly.

            4. Reverse bleed the system, takes a couple of minutes, my preferred means to get the job done after overhauls and component replacement.



            As seen its a one man job, there are better videos on YouTube, mine is shoddy as I was solo.

            Some OH Kits come with grease to lube the studs as well which is a good thing, and these OH kits are cheap to begin with so no issues. Though the rear MC is a different case, manufacturers like Bajaj have stopped selling it and recommend a MC replacement instead.
            Motorcycling Experience:
            2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
            2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
            2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
            2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
            2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
            2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!

            The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
            Adios Comrades!
            A.P. 2018

            Comment


            • Re: Honda CBR 250R

              Originally posted by psr View Post
              My reputation if at all any, is due to my careful following of what members share ,and educate me...Since you have ruled out your side of the problem , ie., not resting foot on brake pedal, the other option is to check the free movement of floating caliper and brake Pistons....if you have paddock stand the put the bike on paddock and rotate the rear wheel, In the direction of normal rotation...there should be no binding...if it is there, then with rubber or plastic hammer gently tap on the caliper from out side towards the other direction..if this frees up the wheel then you should suspect the floating caliper...now while wheel is rotated, apply rear brake and see if binding comes back...if it does the repeat the procedure and observe....
              For clarifying on Pistons, you have to dismantle the caliper from it's fixing and try to push the Pistons with hand..if it moves inward then it is not stuck...if it does not, then clean the surface around the pistons and apply Brake oil around it, then using a "C" clamp try to push the Piston in...after pushing it in, apply rear brake SLIGHTLY...with less pressure ..you will see the piston coming out...repeat till piston can be pushed with pressure from hand.....Please be careful while applying pressure on foot pedal since a little excess can push the pistons all the way out , and would require laborious work of putting it back....
              You can attempt this only if you are technically inclined to it..if in doubt, better to get it done with ASC under your eyes, or any Good mech you know.
              Please be aware that it is safety related and no compromise in quality of work or material used is allowable..
              Use only Dot 4 brake oil..
              Absolutely sir! [MENTION=104193]cbr250abs[/MENTION], as sir said, go ahead with the DIY only if you're a technically inclined and willing to take the risk, because tapping the calipers and sensitive components can in fact ruin them beyond repair, especially piston cylinders and caliper pistons themselves. Good luck.

              Cheers!
              VJ
              Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
              The girl said, 'NO!'


              And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


              THE END

              Comment


              • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                Originally posted by psr View Post
                My reputation if at all any, is due to my careful following of what members share ,and educate me...Since you have ruled out your side of the problem , ie., not resting foot on brake pedal, the other option is to check the free movement of floating caliper and brake Pistons....if you have paddock stand the put the bike on paddock and rotate the rear wheel, In the direction of normal rotation...there should be no binding...if it is there, then with rubber or plastic hammer gently tap on the caliper from out side towards the other direction..if this frees up the wheel then you should suspect the floating caliper...now while wheel is rotated, apply rear brake and see if binding comes back...if it does the repeat the procedure and observe....
                For clarifying on Pistons, you have to dismantle the caliper from it's fixing and try to push the Pistons with hand..if it moves inward then it is not stuck...if it does not, then clean the surface around the pistons and apply Brake oil around it, then using a "C" clamp try to push the Piston in...after pushing it in, apply rear brake SLIGHTLY...with less pressure ..you will see the piston coming out...repeat till piston can be pushed with pressure from hand.....Please be careful while applying pressure on foot pedal since a little excess can push the pistons all the way out , and would require laborious work of putting it back....
                You can attempt this only if you are technically inclined to it..if in doubt, better to get it done with ASC under your eyes, or any Good mech you know.
                Please be aware that it is safety related and no compromise in quality of work or material used is allowable..
                Use only Dot 4 brake oil..

                Thank you psr Sir for the simple steps to troubleshoot caliper/piston issue. They seem good enough for a newbie like me.

                Due to lack of proper paddock ( I had recently bought G roller mini paddock for chain lubing which seems insufficient for the brake troubleshooting task ), muddy brakes and thanks to recent respite from rains in Pune I took it for my first servicing which I was postponing for the last few days.

                I told specifically to the mechanic to check the caliper/piston. He put it on the paddock and checked the movement of the rear wheel which was found to move freely. He did few other minor checks and said the brakes operation is perfectly normal. Now I guess first owner overused the rear brakes, anyway true picture would emerge after I replace the brake pads and clock few thousand kms under my ownership, until then keeping my fingers crossed.

                I would post few pictures and summary of my first servicing in my next post.
                Last edited by cbr250abs; 09-30-2019, 11:17 PM.

                Comment


                • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                  Originally posted by cbr250abs View Post
                  Thank you psr Sir for the simple steps to troubleshoot caliper/piston issue. They seem good enough for a newbie like me.

                  Due to lack of proper paddock ( I had recently bought G roller mini paddock for chain lubing which seems insufficient for the brake troubleshooting task ), muddy brakes and thanks to recent respite from rains in Pune I took it for my first servicing which I was postponing for the last few days.

                  I told specifically to the mechanic to check the caliper/piston. He put it on the paddock and checked the movement of the rear wheel which was found to move freely. He did few other minor checks and said the brakes operation is perfectly normal. Now I guess first owner overused the rear brakes, anyway true picture would emerge after I replace the brake pads and clock few thousand kms under my ownership, until then keeping my fingers crossed.

                  I would post few pictures and summary of my first servicing in my next post.
                  Good to know everything is ok with the braking system...may be the previous owner either had a habit of resting his foot on the brake pedal, or used the rear brakes predominantly for braking......

                  A WARNING for all CBR 250 owners WITH ABS.....the ABS sensor of the rear wheel is very close to the Brake Disc and the ABS slotted disc...While removing the Rear wheel pay attention and be Extra Careful to ensure, that the DISC SHOULD NOT TOUCH OR HIT THE ABS SENSOR...if this happens, the sensor will fail...best to remove the Sensor first and then the wheel to ensure the ABS sensor does not get damaged....
                  Good Luck..
                  When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.

                  Comment


                  • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                    Originally posted by psr View Post
                    A WARNING for all CBR 250 owners WITH ABS.....the ABS sensor of the rear wheel is very close to the Brake Disc and the ABS slotted disc...While removing the Rear wheel pay attention and be Extra Careful to ensure, that the DISC SHOULD NOT TOUCH OR HIT THE ABS SENSOR...if this happens, the sensor will fail...best to remove the Sensor first and then the wheel to ensure the ABS sensor does not get damaged....
                    Good Luck..

                    Thank you for the advise Sir, it's quite useful and timely especially since I'm planning to replace the stock tyres with Michelin Street Radial (MSR) which are praised a lot in this forum.

                    I enquired about the MSR tyres from Tyre dealer near my home in Pune, at first he advised me to choose non-radial tyres since the bike comes with non-radial tyres and radial tyres may be prone to puncture. Upon insistence he agreed that he would arrange them.

                    This is the checklist I've made out for the tyres replacement.

                    1. Remove rear sensor first, not sure about front sensor other than ask the mechanic to do it carefully w.r.t ABS sensor.

                    2. Check Manufacture date of tyres.

                    3. Insist the dealer to do wheel balancing.

                    Any other advise from experienced riders or any point I've missed specific to Michelin Street Radial tyres? Since I've decided to go for MSR solely based on what I've read rather than experience, anyone who knows of any other alternative tyres or any drawbacks of MSR like puncture proneness.

                    My top priority is that tyres should be reasonably puncture resistant ( don't want to be stranded in middle of nowhere as I'm into long rides ) and very good ( if not excellent ) at handling.
                    Last edited by cbr250abs; 10-02-2019, 05:05 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                      Originally posted by cbr250abs View Post
                      Thank you for the advise Sir, it's quite useful and timely especially since I'm planning to replace the stock tyres with Michelin Street Radial (MSR) which are praised a lot in this forum.

                      I enquired about the MSR tyres from Tyre dealer near my home in Pune, at first he advised me to choose non-radial tyres since the bike comes with non-radial tyres and radial tyres may be prone to puncture. Upon insistence he agreed that he would arrange them.

                      This is the checklist I've made out for the tyres replacement.

                      1. Remove rear sensor first, not sure about front sensor other than ask the mechanic to do it carefully w.r.t ABS sensor.

                      2. Check Manufacture date of tyres.

                      3. Insist the dealer to do wheel balancing.

                      Any other advise from experienced riders or any point I've missed specific to Michelin Street Radial tyres? Since I've decided to go for MSR solely based on what I've read rather than experience, anyone who knows of any other alternative tyres or any drawbacks of MSR like puncture proneness.

                      My top priority is that tyres should be reasonably puncture resistant ( don't want to be stranded in middle of nowhere as I'm into long rides ) and very good ( if not excellent ) at handling.
                      MPSRs are not better, if not only slightly better than the MRF that comes as stock for the CBR. My MRF ZAPPER FY for the front and Zapper S rear, both bias ply tires. To me they are really a nice pair of tires, offers excellent grip when heated and irrespective of gravel or what not, they grip very well. Secondly, you can also try Masseter from MRF.



                      The following are the Masseter series for the CBR 250R, again from MRF, a bias-ply both front and rear 110/70-17 MFX/140/70-17 MSX-MCT. You can try this too, and have great reviews, though I haven't used them personally. MPSRs are the only radials in the series.

                      In the order of importance MPSRs>Masseter>MRF Zapper series. Radials run cooler and provide flex which helps it to have better contact patch and smooth ride.

                      Now, with respect to sensor, yes the sensor is to be removed first, then the wheel. If you're working on tire replacement, then yes, the wheel sensor of the tire being removed is to be disconnected. Most don't do it, but a nick and a crimp is all it takes to spoil the sensor. Even the manual suggests removing the respective wheel sensor before dismantling the tire. There is a reason why Honda recommends sensor removed and installed back, so it's better to follow that for peace of mind.

                      Hope it helps.

                      Cheers!
                      VJ
                      Last edited by B7ACKTHORN; 10-02-2019, 08:38 PM.
                      Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                      The girl said, 'NO!'


                      And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                      THE END

                      Comment


                      • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                        Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post
                        MPSRs are not better, if not only slightly better than the MRF that comes as stock for the CBR. My MRF ZAPPER FY for the front and Zapper S rear, both bias ply tires. To me they are really a nice pair of tires, offers excellent grip when heated and irrespective of gravel or what not, they grip very well. Secondly, you can also try Masseter from MRF.



                        The following are the Masseter series for the CBR 250R, again from MRF, a bias-ply both front and rear 110/70-17 MFX/140/70-17 MSX-MCT. You can try this too, and have great reviews, though I haven't used them personally. MPSRs are the only radials in the series.

                        In the order of importance MPSRs>Masseter>MRF Zapper series. Radials run cooler and provide flex which helps it to have better contact patch and smooth ride.

                        Now, with respect to sensor, yes the sensor is to be removed first, then the wheel. If you're working on tire replacement, then yes, the wheel sensor of the tire being removed is to be disconnected. Most don't do it, but a nick and a crimp is all it takes to spoil the sensor. Even the manual suggests removing the respective wheel sensor before dismantling the tire. There is a reason why Honda recommends sensor removed and installed back, so it's better to follow that for peace of mind.

                        Hope it helps.

                        Cheers!
                        VJ
                        Thanks VJ for your suggestion about MRF zapper tyres. They are readily available and quite cheap: Rs.4300 for a pair of both tyres including fitment. I have also quite good experience ( though not exceptional ) with MRF zappers on my old bike. they are value for money.

                        In contrast MRSR are around Rs10,000 for the pair and are bit difficult to get. Also from online reviews on Amazon, these tyres have 2-3 years old manufacturing date.

                        How much kms you have put on with MRF tyres, how much offroading/ gravel roads, wet grip, etc. Any puncture till date. How do they compare with Michelin radial tyres ( touted as best tyres for cbr250). Is there only slight difference ( ~ 10%) or a significant difference ( > 20% )

                        There are some reviews about Masseter for cbr250 that it's very good on good tarmac roads but poor grip on the sand, gravel, offroads and it's for rear only, so not considering it. It's usually used along with MRF Revz C1. No idea how Revz C1 fares with zapper at the rear.

                        And any idea / experience of wheel balancing on two wheeler, the dealer I talked to said they don't do wheel balancing on 2 wheelers but it's mentioned in the user manual that balancing is important after any tyre replacement.
                        Last edited by cbr250abs; 10-04-2019, 09:57 AM.

                        Comment


                        • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                          Originally posted by cbr250abs View Post
                          Thanks VJ for your suggestion about MRF zapper tyres. They are readily available and quite cheap: Rs.4300 for a pair of both tyres including fitment. I have also quite good experience ( though not exceptional ) with MRF zappers on my old bike. they are value for money.

                          In contrast MRSR are around Rs10,000 for the pair and are bit difficult to get. Also from online reviews on Amazon, these tyres have 2-3 years old manufacturing date.

                          How much kms you have put on with MRF tyres, how much offroading/ gravel roads, wet grip, etc. Any puncture till date. How do they compare with Michelin radial tyres ( touted as best tyres for cbr250). Is there only slight difference ( ~ 10%) or a significant difference ( > 20% )

                          There are some reviews about Masseter for cbr250 that it's very good on good tarmac roads but poor grip on the sand, gravel, offroads and it's for rear only, so not considering it. It's usually used along with MRF Revz C1. No idea how Revz C1 fares with zapper at the rear.

                          And any idea / experience of wheel balancing on two wheeler, the dealer I talked to said they don't do wheel balancing on 2 wheelers but it's mentioned in the user manual that balancing is important after any tyre replacement.
                          I so far haven't had any punctures and the tires are performing brilliantly. Secondly, yes, it's a cost effective proposition when compared to MPSRs. The MPSRs are if not on par to MRFs at least from my experience. Though I did not feel drastic difference from both, my ride experience tells me, I'd stick to MRF for cost effective, yet decent life. The only pros of MPSRs being MRFs are bias-play nylon belt, as opposed to radial steel belted on the MPSRs, and radials comparatively run cooler than bias ply. Revz is the radial series from MRF, and Zapper is the Bias Ply series. It's always recommended to use radials as a pair, and not one BP and one RAD. Revz C and CI are the Duke's front tire, and they are very good tires. Even the R15 uses Revz S on the rear, as stock, excellent tire for the bike.

                          Yes, balancing is important, but most tire shops do balancing only for four wheelers. If you don't find a balancing shop, make sure you find the yellow dot on the tire and match it on the rim where the air nipple hole is, make sure the yellow dot and the nipple hole are directly facing each other. Hope it helps!

                          Cheers!
                          VJ
                          Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
                          The girl said, 'NO!'


                          And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


                          THE END

                          Comment


                          • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                            Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
                            Guys did earth wire mode yesterday. There is huge difference in low end and mid range . Bike gaining speeds so much better than before.. throttle respons also became sharp. Over takings become so effortless now. I can accelerate as low as from 2k rpm in 3rd gear, i will strongly recommend this modification for every cbr owners.
                            Did you DIY. Is your bikes' vibrations problem solved after earth wire mode.

                            Originally posted by Pavithranmt View Post
                            I can accelerate as low as from 2k rpm in 3rd gear,
                            That's quite something, is there no lugging at 2k rpm in 3rd gear? My bike picks up after speed of 30 only ( that's ~ 3k rpm ) in 3rd gear, I guess I also need this mod.
                            Last edited by cbr250abs; 10-09-2019, 12:27 AM.

                            Comment


                            • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                              Originally posted by Jon Niranjan Paul View Post
                              Absolutely right. I'm currently using the FC and C for my ceeber. Was running on michelins before (lasted 32K kms), and was very curious about this new entrant from MRF. I got the pair for 5.5K, with lots of haggling with the dealer. Was surprised at the amount of grip offered! The front is the best replacement for the stock Conti's or even for the Michelin! The rear is 150/60/17, meaning it's an upsize of 10mm, and a downsize of 10mm on the sidewall. it is still a d irect fit though, and there is enough clearance from the tyre hugger and the swingarm.

                              The MRF tyres are really light in comparison with Contigos or Michelins. it gives the ceeber a rather nimble feel. No loss in FE observed due to upsizing the rear, still gives out ~35kmpl.

                              However, the downsize in sidewall induces a feel, as if the tail is sitting lower, which is good on highway stints as the bike feels more stable. The downside is, you have to be wary of potholes, as the reduction in sidewall will transfer more force onto the alloy wheel.

                              But, for 5.5k INR a pair, heck I'd be more than happy if they lasted for 18K kms! Spent 12K INR for a pair of Michelins before! These tyres are puncture prone, and i use PFZ in both tyres.
                              Though it's quite old post and I understand you have moved on to Duke 250, just curious to know which Michelins were you using on CBR earlier.

                              Was it Michelin Sporty Pilot or Michelin Street radials.

                              As per your experience which is better in terms of overall grip and cornering: Revz vs Michelins?

                              Which tyres are more puncture prone: Michelin or Revz.

                              How was your experience with PFZ on longer rides.
                              Last edited by cbr250abs; 10-09-2019, 12:45 PM.

                              Comment


                              • Re: Honda CBR 250R

                                Hello everyone,
                                I would like to clear a doubt that just crept up in my mind i.e.,is it safe if i mix motul 300v 10w40(500ml) with motul 7100 10w40 (1ltr),and use this oil in my next engine oil change.
                                Would it have any adverse effect on my engine or is it safe if i go ahead with this?this idea came to me as i have 500 ml left of 300v ester core oil from last service and want to use it.

                                Comment

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