Re: Honda CBR 250R

As mineral oils are not recommended by Honda, I dont think the SVC will entertain your request for the same. You may, however, get your FS oil drained as soon as you reach home and replace it with mineral.

The drained FS oil would be pretty fine to use after filtering it with a very fine cloth. After covering 200-300kms with the mineral oil, you can flush it out and fill up the previously drained FS till your 1st service.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Damn, thanks, will talk to the svc guys. If they do not persist, well shall threaten them of cancelling the purchase.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Just my 2 cents. I think the information that mineral oil is better for break-in is just a myth. It may be true for older generation engines. CBR 250R comes with fully synthetic oil right out from the factory. If Honda thinks that mineral oil is better for break-in, why would it send the bike with synthetic oil? Moreover I consider that Honda's surface finish and clearance values will be far more superior than the engines needing mineral oil. So rather than standing up for some age old transcendental myth, I would suggest to downplay/ignore this concern and keep the transaction with the dealer smooth and happy. You might even get a freebie. Just stick to what the manual says. Read the manual once, ride sanely, enjoy the experience and don't worry too much because even if something goes wrong (least probable), you have the warranty to cover you. Congrats and good luck!

Re: Honda CBR 250R

+1. Do not make it rough with the dealer/service guys - remember, a positive rapport with the ASC and dealers will always be beneficial in the long run.

Dhuraison, I don't mean to contradict you bro, but for a moment, let's forget what technology Honda has incorporated into the engine block, and let's consider in pure mechanical terms. It will still be two metal surfaces moving in contact, and it will definitely need some very fine polishing to be done - to set in perfectly. That extremely fine surface can only be achieved by operational friction.

Another myth which people hold is that Mineral oils are not as "slippery" or "lubricating" as synthetic. This is very much incorrect. The viscosity, "slipperiness" or "lubrication quantity' of a 10W30 mineral is exactly the same as a 10W30 SS or FS. The only difference is that synthetic oils have longer life and some extra additives to improve smoothness. These 'additives' are what we want to avoid during the break-in process - that's why a few hundred kms on mineral oil would actually help the process.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

looking for new front tyres.
Kindly suggest.

thanks

Re: Honda CBR 250R

One more thing FS oil reaches operating temp faster causing better oil flow thru the oil lines ..I tried mineral once felt like bike is disagreeing changed it in 700kms..cbr is far more happy wid fs lets not deprive her..modern engines may not require mineral for breaking in..IMO

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

My front got two micro leakage no nails nothing got them fixed but for front ill go for dukes front tyre..

Re: Honda CBR 250R

No problem buddy. An educated argument always brings out good things in the end.

Though I agree that friction is needed to mate the piston rings with the cylinder wall, I am somehow not convinced that the friction provided by synthetic oil is not enough for this mating process to be effective. The additives you are talking about are molybdenum additives (marketed as friction busters), which are not present in Honda's OEM synthetic oil (I read the label of the black can). Anyway, to each, his oil err... own.

For the sake of information (I'm not arguing more), as far as I know (being a mechanical engineer), the only differences between mineral oil and synthetic oil worth mentioning are:

Thermal stability
Synthetic oil maintains its viscosity for a wider range of temperature. On the other hand, mineral oil becomes thinner as temperature soars (though not so thin to be rendered useless, considering Indian climatic conditions).

Inertness towards combustion
Synthetic oil is relatively inert to combustion whereas mineral oil burns (read decompose/oxidize) with combustion in case of leakage. As the latter consists of sulphur and parafins (remember it is distilled from gasoline), it is a major source of pollutants emitted from improperly maintained automobiles (which is no rarity in India). This should be considered a deal breaker.

Cost
This is where synthetic oil bites the dust.

My opinion: Performance wise, both are identical at usual operational stress. Both offer the same level of lubrication. Break-in or already broken, synthetic oil anytime.

Fitness (considering properly broken engine in Indian road/climate conditions)
Air cooled engine ~100cc: Both are good. Mineral oil will suffice.
Air cooled engine ~150cc and above: Synthetic.
Engine with dedicated oil cooler: Both are good. Mineral oil will suffice.
Liquid cooled engine: Both are good. Synthetic.
Old engine: Synthetic.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Good to know some more points, that too from someone who's into the same field. But regarding viscosity and lubrication properties, I guess we are both on the same page.

Those additives were precisely what I suggested to avoid during the break-in period, and that's why I was suggesting mineral. Didn't know Honda OEM oil comes without additives. Thanks for that information!

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Thank you, I am getting the jitters. Well hopefully the piston will not get glazed. I read the threads regarding break in of varying the rpms and letting the engine warm up for at least minimum 2 mins before I ride off.

Well FS then.

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

About the oils. The discussion of which one is better during breaking in aside, does anyone see any problem with using the stock Synthetic oil that comes with the bike?

Secondly, I am getting my C-ABS tomorrow and today I noticed the odometer reading to be 31 kms. Should I be alarmed? I will make sure that they don't spray at the radiators while they wash the bike before delivery as I read on this forum a while back that people have got bent radiator fins after their bike has been put through the wash.
And is there anything else I should be careful of while collecting the bike? Do help me out on this one soon please because there;s less than 24 hours left!

On a side note, I know some of you might have installed radiator guards, could someone send me a link please?

Thanks.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

but synthetic oils lasts long ...like a mineral oil will need change in 1200km or so in normal riding condition and it costs less whereas though Fs costs more drain is needed at far longer intervals like 3000kms or so..

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Congrats on your ride John!
31 is a bit on the higher side. Mine was with 7 on the odo. Probably your bike has been tested around quite a bit.
As I mentioned for Manan, make sure there are no rattles anywhere. Check for scratches in fairing/cowl.
Radiator guards are expensive, the cheapest option would be to fit a mudflap (it's literally free!)
All FAQs for the bike can be found on
Page 750, post 7500.
Page 760, post 7600.
Page 820, Post 8200.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Congratulations for your new ride...!!! Hope to see the pics soon...!! By the way which dealer have you booked your bike from?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

I meant the absolute cost without relating to the drain interval. Most people don't take it into consideration when considering synthetic oil. In a long run, I agree that synthetic oil is on par with the mineral oil in terms of maintenance cost (sometimes even better).

^ +1. Radiator guards are next to useless. I have seen one. They might help in saving the fins from larger stones but not from mud and splashes; the latter is more likely than the former. As bbsrailfan said, a flap (DIY) is going to be the best option. Else, if you are only concerned about splashes, then, in that case, a simple toothbrush is going to be very handy. You could also look at front fender extenders (like the one shown below) for CBR 250R if you could spend little and have someone abroad. I am personally trying to find out which Indian bike's front fender (bottom half) would be compatible with CBR 250R after some DIY.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Congrats!, all the best!. I had stock oil and there were no issues. Bike became smooth after first service. But have nothing to compare against.
31 may be on the higher side, but I have read in this forum that some people have seen more on the Odo. Please read posts by RG as pointed by bbsrailfan.
Mine had 0 on the Odo, but had many radiator fins bent (which got replaced ).

Radiator guard:
I am thinking that radiator guard can be counter productive. The radiator needs continuous air flow through it.
If we put a "nice" guard, I see that we may cut the air supply significantly. It may make fan to overwork and may also make temp go high.
Btw, CBR has a long temp range on temp bar at 3. So we may not see it climbing up to 4 with the guard etc to validate this theory.
Also, we should avoid obstructing air flow near engines (if air cooled one not liquid cooled like CBR) with engine guard etc - these harm more than an occasional stone hit.
Lets put as many as guards to us the rider !
Another aspect on radiator fins - may be we have to clean with paint brush if many fins are closed with mud etc. Mudflap is a good idea.
As the horizontal tube lines carry the coolant and the fins help increasing the surface area, some fin damage is OK as long as horizontal lines are intact.