Hi Friends




started journey with hell lot of problems. previous posts(few months down the line) on forum were regarding that only.


Now giving a positive feedback as nearly i have no problems at all. All possible due to this forum bringing people together and sharing ownership and problems and their solution.


Many Thanks to argee, POS, adisake and many others who helped me with getting my bike in tip top condition. Thank you ALL.


History of problems the bike faced and rectified :-


(caution: weak hearted people stay away. :-) just kidding)


oil leak, coolant leak,
gear lever falling off,
silencer gaskit melted,
brakes- (master cylinder) of non abs fitted on abs,
front wheel locking due to brakes non releasing even after lever is not touched took few hours to free them and get bike to ASC,
shims- all four,
startor motor(exact name i dont remember. correct me if wrong.the one which charges battery),
battery-3rd one,
timing chain,
clutch cable,
and many other minor jobs like paint touchup, etc.






by the way the bike has just completed 9200kms in 8 months on 8th april'13. was fed up in starting thought of even selling the bike and buying a 100cc bike.


People here on forum and local members of Ahmedabad were a lot helpful with me and tried to convince honda as much as possible to replace. but they assured if problem arrives they are happy to replace parts for my bike.


All the above mentioned problems are gone.


Got new gaskit for head twice as oil was leaking. as well as coolant.
gear lever screw which holds the gear lever was put.
new silencer with new silencer protector was put.
mater brake cylinder of abs is now put.
shims replaced.as tick tick noise was there
startor motor replaced. As bike stalled on road and had to push it twice to showroom for service.
2 battery was also replaced. One as bike was not able to run side lights and horn at same time. next one when bike stopped on road and didnt start.
recently they changed brake pads(front ones as they were completed worn out)
also clutch cable as few threads started peeling off.
and timing chain was replaced as noise around 3-5k rpm range was there like a tin can with stones in it.




All the above were covered in warranty and replaced by them.


NOTE: DIDNT pay anything for above mentioned parts.




consumables till date that i was charged.
till date 3 oil changes and 2 oil filters replaced.
750rs for 1.5L oil.
oil filter 280rs.
2 free services are over.




Free goodies: wash, polish, chain lube all done for free whenever i go for minor or any problem.




Touring on cbr:


destinations till date are


janjari waterfalls. done offroading there.
udaipur
polo forest
taraanga hills
thol lake
nal sarovar
balasinor
and many more small ones.
All kms on odo are mainly due to touring. i go to college in car and this bike is more of a weekend get away/ touring bike.
Served it purpose well.




Final words without much boring with more crap, bike is just awesome. Has me a big smile plastered whenever i give it some gas. The red color bike which i have is just a chic magnet. Dont forget childern magnet too. All car having childern in back seat just pointing me from their cars makes me bhush.


Any queries regarding anything do fire up.

@bbsrailfan : Even I agree that engine oil cant go bad suddenly. My suspicion is something happened either on your forward journey or where you parked the bike.

Maybe some kid dropped something sticky in your exhaust which got stuck inside??
Something got stuck on your chain?
Did you check the oil level? Maybe the oil is leaking somewhere?

Do you remember anything unusual happening? I am not sure where the air filter is placed in CBR but could it somehow get blocked due to some liquid falling on that area or something?

Or maybe ECU suddenly decided to call it a day

Sorry for so many questions, I am trying to think what all can go wrong in such a short time to result in behaviour like stalling/vibes/power loss.

I am beginning to think it was a combination of a stiff chain and bad fuel - that was the only unusual thing I did that day - filled up at a bunk which I had never visited earlier. Hope my assumption proves right and I do not miss any critical signals which may lead to major issues. I still have 3 bars of fuel left...once empty, I will tank up at my regular bunk and see if that changes something.

Please suggest if I need to check anything else?

Does anyone know whats the rate of a CBR 250 (actual transaction - not figures on OLX which seem to range from 50k to 140k) in the second hand market - specifically in NCR ?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

May be a even now you can add a small bottle of Bardhal injector cleaner to the tank ? Experts pls advice.

Re: Honda CBR 250R


I have finally pinpointed the culprit behind the "creaking sound" and the "tank vibes" - the tank itself is a bit wobbly. I have highlighted the key points in the image below - the part of the fairing highlighted in yellow is connected to the tank at the green screws. The tank itself is a bit wobbly - it has a play of 2-3mm along the blue lines and if i push it with my hand, it wobbles a couple of millimeters to and fro along the blue line. and as I gather speed, it it starts vibrating, and on bad roads, it causes a creaking ruckus like a 70's wreck.



The problem is - the screws highlighted in green are still very tight, so nothing can be done in the areas highlighted in green/yellow...are there any diagrams showing how the tank is mounted on to the frame and how it can be tightened? Is it possible to make any fixes without opening the fairings?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

just like other bikes the tank is mounted with 2 screws.. one is below the tank cowl (front plastic over tank ). the second one is accesible below the front seat.
however to remove the tank the side fairings and the highlighted parts needs to be taken out first only then the tank can be taken out.

once you get hold of both the tank screwes.. you can gently lift the tank and below the tank there is a small lock for the fuel line which needs to be engaged first and then the fuel line can be disconnected.
why dont you take it to the ASC and ask then to do it. i generally go to asc and sit alongside the ride and get opened whatever i want infront my eyes and ask them to tighten it again.


My ride has become wobbly after 13,500 kms.. and it seems to be the tyres are the culprit.. the coneset is good. fork strenght is balanced. the tyres are showing a wavy pattern of wear on the sides and it gets scary while hard cornering...

----consecutive posts auto-merged-----

need some pointers regarding my future visit to ASC...

1 i am planning to get the fork oil changed. though the suspension is all good. i sitill want to drain the complete oil and want to go with a thicker Grade oil
so the play reduces as during cornering the ride seems to get wavy and feels like ready to jumo out of the road due to G force combined with the super awsome
soft suspension. my rear is already on setting 3 and is harder which has helped a lot.. however something needs to be done for the front

suggest thicker grade fork oil... pros/cons....


2: ) the front fairing rattle seem to be back.. though i will get it fixed.. however since a month of so i am facing a strange issue
as soon as i go into a bump at speeds above 40.. i hear a boom... very disaapointing sound.. somthing like breaking of glass...
what if we break a beer bottle on road.. exactly to describe.. i have got the fairing opened and rechecked.. all good.. unable to
find the source...
ASC says its the incline sensor.. to a point i can believe it however the sound is loud and i feel a small part cannot make such noise
if it was it would have been broken by now.. but that is not the case... confused.. help folks..


3: ) is the coneset replaceable under warranty.. 13k km and 11 months by now..
though its fine but my sixth sense says.. its about to retire ....(just a gut feeling )..


4: ) any got weight balancing done for the rims.... havent heard yet from anyone.. but just a thought.. as these are alloys and
car alloys need weight balancing as well.. then this should be needing too...

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Honda recommended fork oil is 10w,Motul is marketing a 20w oil for forks,it is available in 350 ml bottles,cbr needs 330ml in each fork leg so 2 bottles are enough.It is for 128/- a bottle.You will need to take out both fork legs for this.I supported my bike on a old battery box of suaitable size for it.Also ensure that tightly wound side of the fork spring is at the bottom side.Mine was wrong in right fork leg.Few more things are there which can be done to the fork to make it responsive,very cheap solutions but you try with the oil first.

Cone set will not be covered under warranty unless you convince the ASC that the problem with it was there since begining & you have it on the record that it was giving you trouble.

Not done wheel balancing but same question arised in my mind also as my car is having these pasting weights which can be used on cbr also.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Thanks for that information bro I am not planning to remove the tank, will just tighten the screws and see if that helps. If that doesn't work out, a visit to the ASC is inevitable. Might as well get myself a little bit of free chain cleaning & lubing too

If your tyres still have life left in them, then you might need a wheel alignment or a coneset adjustment. There are very few shops who do wheel alignment and balancing for 2-wheelers and you will need to hunt around a bit. Not sure if the ASC guys will go this. I had a bad time with a slightly deformed rim on my Gladiator, and had to run from pillar to post to get it balanced.

If you are replacing your fork oil, do update us bro, it that helped in improving handling! Good Luck!

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Same issue here, Oct '11 model, 17500km, tread depth at center is more than 2 mm, but as we move on to the sides it decreases to about 1mm and then again no wear at the extreme edges. Same story with both tyres. No problems in straight line or braking but cornering has become tough, bike seems to slide a wee bit while cornering (feeling of bike turning a bit more than it should as per steering input), confidence decreases, so speed decreases and it has become scary in wet. I think the uneven wear is due to the fact that rear is driver and front is driven; it might be due to the way the friction acts.

A review of the these tyres too mentions the same: Contigo Review - Indian cars and bikes - Motoroids

I have a few questions: I am thinking of replacing the tyres with :
110/70 - 17 Pirelli Sport Demon (is it tubeless?)
140/70 - 17 ContiGo (PSD not available, any other suggestions, have read MRF Zapper Q to be tube type and heavier than ContiGo?)
And is it fine with different make of tyres at both ends?

Re: Honda CBR 250R

... exactly... the tyre skids a bit and gets scary when cornering and mine is a legendary tyre with 27-28 punctures by now... though the treading seems to be there but in practicality this tyre is done...

for front you cna go with any brand you like.. worst case scenario.. get IRC's.. dont get back to conti's ever again... PSD if available will be tubeless
also you can get MRF revz 110/70 stock front of Duke 200.

for rear i have tested dunlop tuffgrip 140/70 stock size on rear and moving from conti's is a very welcome change.. good grip and real fun to corner with the dunlop.
dont know the tyre life but if it lasts for another 12k its worth it.. neither its expensive

dunlop tuffgrip 140/70 .. 2600 bucks...

go for dunlop.. pirelli and michelin are real soft compound.. real good grip but prone to punctures and less life ... expensive too.. non isi so sold in black for a premium...

Re: Honda CBR 250R

PSDs are tubeless, but availability has been an issue in the recent times, with dealers quoting exorbitant prices.
The current batch of ContiGo tyres have improved over the initial batch and provides slightly better grip and longevity. You can look for IRC 140/70s - the ones which come standard with international CBRs. They are better than the ContiGos. You can also look for Dunlop TuffGrip tubeless. The Zapper Q is a tube type tyre but can be used as well.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

tightening the bolts wudn't solve the problem.. trust me.. infact you'll end up with more shrill vibes... i'd suggest get soft rubber washers.. get the parts stripped from where you get the vibes.. mount the washers and then get it fixed again. this will solve the issue to some extent.

i used to get a lot of vibes from the front. figured out the space between the headlight assembly and the front top fairing was the culprint.
got a torn tube ( cycle tube) inserted a peice of it in between and all good since then..

i plan to get the tyres changed soon after the paycheck .. see how it goes and then go for the fork oil upgrade.
the rear play after setting to 3 has improved the handling. as i ride alone most of the times it isin't affecting ride quality much.
now if the front play can be smoothened out.. it will be a good package with new tyres and better suspension..

regarding the alignment. alignment is all good.. i checked it yesterday and even the chain slack and lubed it..
the concern is about the weight balancing... damn . this country will never have bassic necessities around when you need em...
millions of motorcycles in around with alloys ranging from 100cc to 1000cc or more but even big cities like HYD.. finding a shop
for motorcycle rim weight balancing is alien....

lets see how it goes... will kee you guys. posted...


also planning to get the mechanical ABS module from KRP delhi.. some 700 bucks.. wanna try it out..
what say people about the ABS module. have seen it on a friends ( juris- xbhp member ) pimped R15
and it does works..

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Thanks again, for the detailed explanation. Have to sit with her this weekend

my brother has been bugging me for one of those ABS modules for his Yammie...but i am not very confident on the product due to the lack of any kind of technical documentation. In my bro's case, I advised him to ride cautiously without ABS instead of riding overconfidently with a device which hasn't been systematically tested and proven.

In your case, since you are an experienced rider, you can go for it, just on a trial basis. But I'd suggest not to rely on it during critical situations.

Re: Honda CBR 250R

Some inputs from me about this...


Among many other factors, the ability of a tyre to hold the road rests primarily on the rubber compound and the tread pattern.


The compound on the ContiGos is relatively hard. When I say relatively, it is with respect to Indian roads which are generally quite rough. Such roads need a softer compound which will enable the tread to wrap itself around road undulations, dig into the rough part and enable grip. But with the ContiGos, the hard compound doesn't allow this to happen and as a result, the tread just glides over the surface without gripping it the way it should. An analogy is a soft foam mattress and a harder coir mattress.


The phenomenon of low grip is increased by the tread pattern on the ContiGos which is more suitable for the track (smooth, even and good quality surface) than the road (rough, undulating and poor surfaces).


One critical feature which is missing is a central groove, running all along the tyre, acting as a pump to throw water outwards and leaving a small dry contact patch. Again, the tread elements, whether in the central part of the tyre or towards the edges, are not connected in one endless pattern but are in individual segments. This type of a pattern does not allow water to exit the complete contact patch, whether straight and level or banked in a turn.


I have had anal sphinctor constricting experiences from this terrible tyre on a number of occasions and so, am extremely careful in the rains. It is just that I am both an experienced rider plus a cautious one else would have been in traction by now.


Yes, I have seen the MRF Q (tubed, rear) and it feels much, much better than the present CGs on my bike. I shall definitely change over to it when I get some time. Unfortunately, the MRF Q is NA in the stock 110/70 - 17 format for the bike but is available in a 100/90 - 17 format.


I am still thinking about the front but the rear is definitely going to be an MRF Q - softer, more "tready".

AFAIK, the PS Demons (F and R) are tubeless and have even a less generous tread pattern than the Contis. Have not tested them and don't intend to either.


Still looking, still looking...