Guys please me decide between CBR150r and 250r

- Is 150r a decent touring machine, like if I have to cruise at a speed of 110-120 kph will it struggle for a long time?

- Though Im also concerned with mileage, which is pushing me away from 250r as owners reported mileage of 30kmpl. how much cbr 250r can return on highways if cruising at a speed of say 100 kmph.

- cbr250r is like 36k expensive than 150r and in that I will get 100 more cc more torque, bhp minus the mileage. So that make me think to go with 250r but then NO ABS for base model of 250r.

I had a budget of 1,30,000 but thought of pushing it further considering what I'll be getting more by paying that 40k extra.

So is 150r that less powerful than 250r?

Guys please me decide between CBR150r and 250r

- Is 150r a decent touring machine, like if I have to cruise at a speed of 110-120 kph will it struggle for a long time?

- Though Im also concerned with mileage, which is pushing me away from 250r as owners reported mileage of 30kmpl. how much cbr 250r can return on highways if cruising at a speed of say 100 kmph.

- cbr250r is like 36k expensive than 150r and in that I will get 100 more cc more torque, bhp minus the mileage. So that make me think to go with 250r but then NO ABS for base model of 250r.

I had a budget of 1,30,000 but thought of pushing it further considering what I'll be getting more by paying that 40k extra.

So is 150r that less powerful than 250r?

Here'e the thing I have ridden 150r couple of time and I'm giving my personal thoughts even though 150r looks like 250r but its not an alternative for 250r in any way.

- Is 150r a decent touring machine, like if I have to cruise at a speed of 110-120 kph will it struggle for a long time?
It is decent touring machine but 110-120 is speed where 250r is comfortable not the 150r
- Though Im also concerned with mileage, which is pushing me away from 250r as owners reported mileage of 30kmpl. how much cbr 250r can return on highways if cruising at a speed of say 100 kmph.
I have 2011 ABS model the best I could get was 35-37 Kmpl on highway
- cbr250r is like 36k expensive than 150r and in that I will get 100 more cc more torque, bhp minus the mileage. So that make me think to go with 250r but then NO ABS for base model of 250r.

I had a budget of 1,30,000 but thought of pushing it further considering what I'll be getting more by paying that 40k extra.
OK not sure what is the problem statement here
So is 150r that less powerful than 250r?
What makes you think it is more powerful than 250r ?I will be honest with you in that budget I think a better 150cc will be Yamaha R15s which has better build quality than 150r , then only problem is that it wont be as comfortable as the 150r apart from that R15s shines in every possible way.

Saurabh, both these bikes are capable of touring at 110 kmph, but my personal Mantra is always go for the most powerful bike you can afford to buy, and maintain.

If your budget is strict, then stick to the 150. Otherwise, buy the CBR250. It's got Bullet 500 killing power, and it sits in a niche between the r15 and the r3. Also if you want more mileage, keep the bike at 70 kmph on the highway. You will get above 40 kmpl mileage. Some people have got 45 kmpl too.

Hey guys,

What is the average life of clutch plates on CBR with mixed usage(city+highway)?

40000 kms, if you are not slipping the clutch in the traffic.

Hey guys,

What is the average life of clutch plates on CBR with mixed usage(city+highway)?

40000 kms, if you are not slipping the clutch in the traffic.

Hey guys,

What is the average life of clutch plates on CBR with mixed usage(city+highway)?

Hey guys,

What is the average life of clutch plates on CBR with mixed usage(city+highway)?

got 70K kms on the odo, changed clutch plates at 38K, because i screwed up

Fellow owners have done 1,25,000+ and still no clutch replacement... So i'm guessing it varies upon usage and general conditions

No hard and fast rule this whole "speed and RPM" thing, but I'd like to give you an analogy that I made for myself through my first two break-in experiences. Imagine bikes are like our human bodies. We are born as toddlers and grow up into adults. When you receive a bike, it's not a baby. It's more of the average 21 year old - confused about its purpose and just out into the real world after being "placed" in your "company". The initial "break-in" period is its probation at your "company". You give it the training you "hired" it for. If you "hired" the bike for long rides, give it the long-rides training. If you "hired" the bike for off roading, give it the off-roading training. If you hired the bike for the racing, give it the "race-bike" training. But remember, no trainees are given the real job. Just a part of the job, in small intervals. You are the bike's "first company". You mould it's future. When you research the internet for a method to break the bike in you will come across a myriad of methods. Everyone who professes any one method will swear by it, almost religiously. You really should decide your bike's future by the way you want it to shape up.

Now when you're breaking-in your ride, no matter which way you want to take it, remember to give it the whole experience. Another analogy: when a person hit's the gym to get fit, he may go the cardio way, the weight training way or the cross-fit way [Side note: In India, I believe most of us make our bikes go through a more cross-fit sort of training - in the sense, we buy one bike and take it everywhere(on-road, off-road, track day, to get Leh'd, etc)]. In any case, there are 2 golden rules to gym - 1. Form - doesn't matter if you're running or doing a chest press. If you don't maintain the correct form, a.k.a technique, you risk injury and/or bad body posture. 2. Range of motion - Let's take squats for this analogy. When you do squats(OT: these are literally the best exercise to do from both the cardio and weight training point of views), if you don't bother to put in the effort to ensure that you move through the entire range of motion that your body is capable of, you will always be weak in the part of the motion that you don't include in your squats. This holds good for every workout and incidentally, for your bike too. If you don't ensure your bike goes through the entire rev range in every gear, the engine will break-in to those habits.

Don't over think the break-in process. At the end of the day, it is a matter of common sense. You ride your bike, and you are unique. Learn to ride your bike, but don't treat it like preparation material for an IIT JEE exam. Feel the engine, feel the gearbox and let your instincts guide, not the internet. Also, don't be so afraid. Numbers like "4.5k RPM" or "1000km" are there for reference. They are not holy rules that are not meant to be broken. They're merely guidelines. Enjoy every moment with your bike. Don't look at your speedo and tacho every other second. You'll be fine.

Before I bought my Bajaj 100B, I did lot of search on xbhp and internet about break-in methods. I came across different conversations done with people who worked with bike manufacturing companies, done with racing professionals, done with local commuters and their results and id that for 2 weeks straight. In the end, the gist of all that reading of 1000s of posts, all that experience can be summed into this post of yours madhav766 .