Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

I believe that under gearing would have helped in the city. Despite decrease in mileage.


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Dear,
I'm R15 rider, my bike have go to time in need service, but don't know how to, Any one have latest owner manual or service manual of R15 v2 ? Thank for reading.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Sorry, I took out your pics to make the post a bit simple to quote.
1st, the error in the speedo is not a linear quantity. You should instead consider the percentage. Cos eventually it's a set of gears and with speed the error increases. If at 75kmph it's 72kmph, that comes out to be a 4% error. I higher speeds the difference in kmph will be more (same percentage though).

With stock setup - 47T in 6th gear, you're doing 122.8 @8500 rpm.
with 42T in 6th gear, you're doing 137.5 @8500 rpm. Now consider the same amount of time difference in percentage for you're bike to reach that speed. For eg. Lets say it takes 14sec for you bike to reach 122.8 in stock setup. With 42T it will take 11% more time [=(47-42)/47] to reach the same speed (i.e 122.8kmph), that becomes 11% of 14 sec = 15.5 sec (approx). Now consider another few seconds to reach the above said 137.5 kmph @8500rpm. Something like 17-18sec, maybe more just to reach 8500rpm. So, should give you an idea how slow the acceleration becomes with difference of 5T.
Practically, your engine might not even have that much torque to pull the bike to 137kmph. Theoretically it's possible because we are considering standard power delivery, but that is not in practical. The engine only provides peak torque and power at a certain rpm, not at all rpms. I've seen people make these changes on other bikes and they say their bike doesn't redline. It can't because with that gearing the engine doesn't have that pull being so tall geared. On down hills, it definitely assists the engine to pull and climb through the tacho, but on on straights. Wind resistance, weight, friction, etc, all external factors do not make it easy for the engine to pull the bike with such tall gearing.
So my suggestion would still be 1-3T max. If you can't find a ready made, you can get it custom made as well.

Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Well, I just made a raw reading of the error [emoji14] and regarding the top speed, I've clearly mentioned that I'm not looking for speed. In fact even a 100kph is enough for me. And redline? I'm never into even getting near it. I'm again telling that I'm just looking for a slighter increase in speed at the 5-6k RPM range for a relaxed cruising. So can you please suggest anything regarding my mentioned needs? And also can you please repost your observations like the above post of yours regarding the RPM/gear/speed at 5k RPM?[emoji4]


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Your post had gear-rpm chart which highlighted 8500rpm, thus I thought you're also looking for top speed.
Since loss of accelaration and delay in hitting stop speed is not an issue, then you can reduce the teeth, but again, 1-3T only.


I would say try it before you buy it. Get your hands on someones used sprocket(42T or 40T), which they should give you in less than half the amount of a first hand one. If you like it, you can buy a new one, else try another option.
Cos you wouldn't know if the setup is good or bad if you have nothing to compare it with.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Oh that chart, [emoji2] I've mentioned below that the 8500rpm was highlighted by the website itself since it was the RPM at which max power is produced and it is also stated there as M.P RPM (Max Power RPM) and anyway I'll search for sprockets at about 2-4T smaller and keep you posted here. [emoji4]


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hey guys I want to change my spark plug cable any suggestions for a good brand..and is the cable on r15 a plug in type on both ends or not.!

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hello folks.
Almost going to be an year of owning the baby R ! been such a nice experience so far except a few niggles here and there. Here are a llst of things that i need some clarity on.
1) Planning to take the wrench in my own hands from the last free service - scheduled for june 1st week. I am planning to switch to FS from SS. Do i need to drain oil from someother part than the normal drain bolt? Is motul 300v a good choice of oil for the r15?
2) How to use a RX-100 stand for only service purpose. Local mechs seem to be clueless about the same.
3) Is a fuel injector / air filter clean / fork lube necessary at 7000 odd kms?
4) Any good aftermarket pads / rotors. Front brake pads have worn out , so planning to replace the pads and rotors both with aftermarket ones.
5) From my knowledge the r15 has O2 sensor .. I plan to install K&N airflter and maintain it properply so that the dust accumulation problem doesnt affect engine and O2 sensor must take care of fuelling.
6) I would be really grateful if someone could put up a DIY pic of how to remove the ECU.
7) Is it possible to swap the R15 brake pads with the metallic ones of apache / CBR?
8) Any other accessories to add to the bike to enhance the appeal?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

My bike's coneset is damaged. SC is quoting above 4k to replace the whole set. I've requested them to replace only the damaged ball racer to cut down cost and they said its not possible. Is it true?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

It is possible... But i guess it is recommended to change the whole set. IF you change the damaged one alone, New one is also prone to damage. BTW how many Kms on ODO? How was it damaged? Any crash?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Odo is around 8.5 k. I guess the damaged occured due to constant riding in pothole filled road. (Actually, there is no road at all in my locality. Only potholes) And AFAIK, the coneset was never lubed and serviced in my bike.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Damn dude,8.5k is too early even of the roads are bad. I dont know whether its really damaged :/

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hii... I am about to buy a second hand R15 in few days, what are the things to look out for before buying.. Also if there is any checklist it woud be helpful..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

what do you man by the coneset being "damaged" precisely ? do you mean they are totally rusted out ?

mine rusted out at mere 7000 kms, and handling/maneuverability had become truly horrible at low speeds with utterly uncomfortable and horrible, and even at times scary, behaviour from the handlebar and front end in general... at that point i just changed only the upper region's ball racer which is located just below the handlebar joint..it worked more or less okay for another 2000 kms but slowly the earlier problem started coming in at which point the front end had to be dismantled and i had to change both the pairs of conesets+ball racers...cost me rs 2800 (this was in november last year).

if by damage you mean it's rusted out, then the cause of it is not bad roads...bad roads have no role in rusting conesets or ball racers...that happens because the lube dried out and perhaps some water crept in, thus rusting it so soon in such a short time..that's what was presumed to have been the case with me.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

[MENTION=5286]aditya[/MENTION] and Siddharth. Guys, I came to a conclusion that the conesets might have been damaged by facing the following sympotms/ situations:1.The handlebar felt like it had some freeplay while turning the bike at slow speeds. 2.When the bike is at stand still, and if the handlebar is moved. A metal cracking sound ('KRAT' 'KRAT' sound) is heared from the coneset. 3.When ridden over a pothhole or irregular surface huge rattling sound is heard. Now this is the super akward moment, any guy riding next to me can hear this lound noise. 4. Last week, I changed(Precisly, re-filled) both the front and the rear brake's oils and the braking was very crisp then. But now the front brakes stopping power is significantly reduced. And if the front brake is applied suddenly on speeds above 50 kmpg. The metal sound is heard from the conesets and handlebar shows some freeplay effect. I never opened the conesets to check if its rusted or not. If rusting due to dried lube is the culprit (I hope it might be) then will lubing it solve the issue once in for all? I've just saved up 5k for a new lid and would feel really sad if I spend it on this suprise problem.