Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hahaha, Guess we are on the same boat once again . A while ago, I even read somewhere on this forum that one of our members' reflector even melted due to the heat caused by the 65 watt bulb. Well, the Alternator produces somewhere around 167 watt power at 5k rpm. The stock electricals as far as I know go like this---> 2x35W headlight + 2x10W pilot lamps + 10W tail number plate lamp = 100 Watt. Keep in mind that the LED tail light, horns, ECU, Radiator fan and fuel pump too run on the little 3.5A battery with the alternator giving out the remaining 67 Watt. Having 2x60W would be an overkill so what members would suggest is to go for 35W on low beam and 60W for the high beam. A few members posted that the battery did manage to Stay alive. 2x60W would definitely drain the battery within a few hours for sure.


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Ah thanks, would go for the 60w on the high beam, let's hope I wont be posting about battery drain issue after a few day

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Let's hope that you won't, Considering that nobody cruises on the highway below 5k rpm. You can also wait for advise from other members as well. Ride safe. [emoji106]🏻


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Thanks mate, ride hard and ride safe

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

can anybody translate this and put subtitles??



m curious what they are saying abt our baby.

Also if i install led lights which are of very lil Ampere rating.. will they have any effect on bike if i connect them to the led tail light?
if not then how do i connect it to brake light?

anyway here is the description.. was able to find after 2 yrs
i got 4 strips of with 12 leds in 1 strip
Product Summary

Input Voltage: DC 12V LED Type: SMD 3528 LED Density: 30 LEDs/Meter
Beam Angle: 120 Degree Strip Width: 8mm LEDs Per Segment: 3 LEDs
Lumen Per Foot (White): 51 lm/ft
Power Consumption Per Meter : 2.4W @ 12V DC

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Just curious if it's possible to change our fork to that of a r125.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Possible but it will not be simple swapping of forks. The triple clamp tree, the upper triple clamp, handle bars, disc and calliper, steering bearings, front wheel will all need to be changed. Even then it may require fabrication of customised parts to make it happen.

Just to give you an idea of what it will entail; here is a link to my Ninja 300 fork conversion http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/general-...ml#post1134021

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Thanks buddy

Could I just use everything the r125 has on my r15 ? Will it fit?

Holy cow I just saw your thread, seems like an impossible task for me 😂😉😉😉

Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hey guys, It's been nearly 1.4 years with my bike and I've completed 21k Kms so far. 95% driven on the highways for long rides. I'm not a great fan of acceleration and hence I just end up cruising at around 75kph at 5k rpm all day. Has anybody tried over gearing their bike? I don't want an increase in the top speed but just want a decent enough cruising speed at the same rpm range of 5k-6k. Tried gear commander and the gains were decent with the loss of acceleration when compared with bigger rear(driven)and smaller front(drive) sprockets. Given that our bike has a 15T drive sprocket and a 47T driven sprocket, What could be altered? The 42T rear sprocket of the V1? or a bigger drive sprocket? Or both? Help would be much appreciated![emoji4]


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Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Though I've not tried sprocketing on an R15, I have quite some experience experimenting with sprockets. Point to be noted - change of one teeth at front is practically equal to 3 at the rear.
Now keeping that in mind, I would never recommend reducing 5 teeth in one go. If you are thinking of it, the loss in acceleration will come out to be equal to the change in teeth i.e 11%. I would suggest trying to fiddle with 1-2 or 3 teeth at once and then see if you like it. The problem with reducing the teeth so much will be mostly observed in lower gears and you would actually struggle while picking up from stand still or taking U-turns. You might even have to raise the rpm so much so that is has enough torque to pull the bike from stand still.

That's just a suggestion you are free to keep it or reject it.
Coming to the front, as I stated that 1 teeth at front is equal to 3T at the rear, however, you shouldn't be reducing the front count less than 13T. If the stock is 15T, try 14 or 13 at the max. Going beyond that would reduce the turning diameter of the chain too much that it'll get very stressed. This in turn reduces the life of the chain and sprocket alike. But, since you are going for a more relaxed setup reducing front would not work for you. You might be more interested in increasing the front for a more relaxed ride.

Let me know if you have any questions on this. I'll be more than happy to assist.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

From what I heard the rule of thumb is never to +/- more than 2 teeths

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Anyone here using a open pod airfilter such as k&n?

Do you experience a kind of sound like paper flapping very quickly... only happens when the bike is moving. Sounds like a air leak or sth I can't really rectify 😢

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Increasing the front would definitely help but I believe there is no bike currently with a 16T front sprocket [emoji29] except a few of the early 2-Strokes. And coming to the rear sprocket, The only sprocket available closer to the current 47T would be the 43T sprocket of the Duke but I heard that it wasn't compatible. The next one is the R15 V1 with 42T and then comes the Karizma/FZ with 40T. And also note that the swing arm of the bike needs to be removed while replacing the chain and hence experimenting would be a time consuming task. Any advice? I'll post a few pics from the gearing commander website comparing the various sprocket setups soon.


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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Here are the readings that were found while experimenting.

1. Stock Sprocket Setup.

I believe that there is some kind of error since the bike does 75kph at 5k rpm in 6th gear but on this site, it shows 72kph. Let's keep an error of 3kph.

2. Rear 42T setup.

At 5k rpm, the bike should be doing 83kph, adding the error of 3kph.

3. Rear 40T setup.

Now it's 88kph with the error corrected.

All these seem pleasing but I have no idea of how much I am going to struggle in even moving the bike from standstill. Here are a few more interesting stats that I came across.

Gear-Rpm charts.

1. Stock 47T


2. 42T


3. 40T


And finally the comparative analysis of the 6th gear in all the 3 Setups.

1. At the M.P RPM (Max Power RPM)


2. Concentrating much on the 5k RPM range since I'm in need of a relaxed cruising setup.


That's it. These are what I came up with. Do correct if I have done any mistakes and all I can do now is wait for your valuable suggestions. [emoji4]



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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Tried the overgearing in v1. Was Facing problem of frequent gear changes in traffic or city drive. Fuel efficiency drop about 3 to 5 kmpl.