Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

yes, the enhanced freeplay while turning at slow speeds (in my case at one point it had become so bad that there was a significant slow speed freeplay even at straight line movement or when just swerving a little to overtake someone) and that hard "thak" sound from the front end (which is probably what you mean by the rattling sound), which in my case was probably not as loud as in yours but loud enough that it was annoying and discomforting, when moved over speed breakers, potholes of even small sizes, even slightly uneven road or when braked suddenly are the symptoms i faced too..

the freeplay is largely due to lack of lube and the ensuing large scale rusting which hampers proper frictionless movement of the bearings over the conesets, thus giving rise to uneven handlebar movement/rotation which sometimes feels like moving too much while also sometimes like not moving smoothly enough.

the cause of the khat sound is probably not directly connected to the transverse and rotational freeplay of the handlebar. i always thought it was mostly due to some vertical space created (along the front fork) between the conesets, or between the conesets and another ring shaped type object against which the conesets are fitted ..so whenever the front fork gets loaded suddenly, which for instance happens when you brake suddenly or when the wheel encounters bumpers or potholes etc, the setup has some free movement up the vertical direction (that is along the length of the fork) and khat sound is from the banging between the 2 objects described above between which a small space has been created...it can be corrected by adjusting/tightening the nut at the handlebar joint just near the coneset.

i am not aware of the metal cracking sound when the bike is standstill and handlebar is moved..it wasn't there in my bike, or maybe it was there but too slight for me to have heard it.

if the rusting is not a lot, then just lube it and see how it works. or if the rusting is only mainly on the ball racer (which is cheap, i think Rs 500-600) you can buy a new ball racer and fit it over the old coneset with lots of lubing..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

[MENTION=5286]aditya[/MENTION]. Thats exactly the things I'm facing now. You just described it spot on. So today I'll get the lubing done and see if it sorts the problem out.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

has anyone ever actually measured the difference between tyre pressures when they are cold and when they are hot (say after normal riding for 3-4 kms, as well after riding for much longer distances) ? those who own their own tyre pressure gauge probably have checked this out at some point..

all this time i have been thinking (based also partly on what has been said here by some members earlier) the difference is usually about 2-5 psi but lately i am starting to think it's much more than that, probably at least 8-10 psi...so far this is based only on the feeling the tyres are giving me while experimenting around with different figures of pressure particularly in the front..

considering buying a tyre pressure gauge anyway..

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Today I went to ride a used R15, in neutral when I revved it above 5k rpm I felt vibrations in hands and legs, is it normal..??

Sent from my MI 3W using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

It actually depends on what you're calling cold and what's hot. If the bike is standing in a closed space under the roof, then cold would definitely below the temperature outside.

For me cold is when the bike is stationary and hot would be when it's being ridden. Sharing an example. During track days we usually keep the pressure close to 7psi less than what is ideal. Cos after a few(2-3) laps we eventually get the the desired pressure. During regular rides around the city it varies from 2-3psi at the max. I have my own pressure gauge so I keep a track.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

a bit confused now.

which definition of cold is the manual referring to when it says, for instance, that the cold tyre pressure of the R15's front should be 28 psi ? i always assumed it's the former type of cold in which the bike has been resting and un-ridden for hours.

even when it's stationary for a while after having being ridden for a few or many kms ?


it seems you mean ideal pressure as in ideal hot/running tyre pressure ? how do you know that for sure though (aside from the feeling obtained while riding) because usually the companies only tell us the ideal cold tyre pressure ?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Cold tyre pressure is measured when tyre is run below 2-2.5 kms after a long idle. Track racing require higher grip and hence reduced tyre pressures.

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Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Wow, I didn't go into this much detail. I'm one of those who uses less data and rely more on feeling

I've tried to answer your questions in bold as per my experience. It might not be according to any standard definition. 1-2 psi would not make much of difference in standard city riding, but it sure does on the track and so do other things. So feeling is more important. Either ways, a pressure gauge will definitely help in monitoring what tyre pressure you're most comfortable with.

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Reduced pressure is not for higher grip, it's because in track use the temperature of the tyre increases more than on roads and the pressure increases on it's own. So, if I need 28 psi, I would keep it at 22 or 23 psi, cos while riding on track, the temperature will increase the pressure back to 28psi. I wouldn't get extra grip though.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

thanks for the replies mate.

been relying primarily on feeling myself too in tyre pressure experiments that i have been doing lately (last 2-3 months) for various purposes. but now i think i really need some data to get more precise. my bike feels best when i keep the front tyre pressure around 35-40 psi it seems (earlier i always used to fill it to 30 psi when the tyre was a bit hot from riding a few kms to nearest air pump, which is close to the manual's suggestion as cold pressure), so i was wondering if indeed for every R15 a cold pressure of 28psi actually translates to 35-40 psi when the tyre's hot after being run some kms instead of just 30 psi hot..hence the question that i asked..at 35-40 psi front i dont feel any enhanced bumping when the bike runs over bumpers, potholes or any kind of uneven-ness on the roads..

btw i dont do standard city rides either, that's really rare for me because i have no regular purpose to do that...pretty much all my rides are going to some highways or outskirts and ripping the bike, so maybe my tyres become hotter than most non-track-riding R15 riders (might explain why a hot pressure of between 35-40 psi at front feels best), and lately i have been doing an increased amount of regular cornering because i recently discovered a whole new relatively empty road not far from my place with many very tight slow-speed (<60 kmph) corners so proper front tyre pressure has become even more sensitive to my requirements now..

all the measurements above according to the pressure gauges of petrol pumps or tyre related shops. i am not so sure about the accuracy of their readings sometimes.

last question - since you said you have your own pressure gauge, can you recommend some of them and is the one you own a digital machine? there are several listed in amazon india but most of them dont have any reviews and the few that do have some however come with varying reviews with some of them saying either the nozzle is too small or the readings aren't all that accurate (compared to something else) etc.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Repost. Someone pls reply.

Hello folks.
Almost going to be an year of owning the baby R ! been such a nice experience so far except a few niggles here and there. Here are a llst of things that i need some clarity on.
1) Planning to take the wrench in my own hands from the last free service - scheduled for june 1st week. I am planning to switch to FS from SS. Do i need to drain oil from someother part than the normal drain bolt? Is motul 300v a good choice of oil for the r15?
2) How to use a RX-100 stand for only service purpose. Local mechs seem to be clueless about the same.
3) Is a fuel injector / air filter clean / fork lube necessary at 7000 odd kms?
4) Any good aftermarket pads / rotors. Front brake pads have worn out , so planning to replace the pads and rotors both with aftermarket ones.
5) From my knowledge the r15 has O2 sensor .. I plan to install K&N airflter and maintain it properply so that the dust accumulation problem doesnt affect engine and O2 sensor must take care of fuelling.
6) I would be really grateful if someone could put up a DIY pic of how to remove the ECU.
7) Is it possible to swap the R15 brake pads with the metallic ones of apache / CBR?
8) Any other accessories to add to the bike to enhance the appeal?<br/>

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

an awesome mod job on R15v2 to make it look like R6. was done by someone in vietnam and the pics were posted in iamabiker's fb page.

there's a weird tank cover over the actual tank though.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hey no sweat, my pleasure.

I purchased a local one from a shop nearby earlier, but it later started giving false readings. It was an analog one. The other I bought was some brand name "Codio". It was for 240-260₹ something. It's still there on eBay. I've had been using that for 2 years, then lost it in my previous track day in February, bought the same one again. Works fine and does the job for me.
If you're interested in a digital one, you can check the one available at Planetdsg. One of my known ordered that as well but he lost it. It used to work fine, was smaller and lighter to carry and since it was digital definitely was more accurate.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

^^ yeah the decently reviewed ones in amazon india are the same codio products.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

1. Yes you can use Motul 300v.. You need to replace oil filter also.
2. Get he stand and the connecting rod alone.. Align the stand to the holes on the bike and slide the connecting rod and use it for service. Then slide out the connecting rod and remove the stand.
3. Replace air filter @10k kms. For fork oil, check manual for replacing interval.
4. No aftermarket rotors available.. Dont do it. R15 has got one of the best braking in its class.
5. No use replacing with K&N except for the sound.. I would not recommend. Your wish though.
6. I dont know why you want to remove it. If you wanna reset, just remove battery neegative terminal for 5 mins.
7. Really? As already told, R15 has best in class braking. Dont spoil it. Apaches 200 rupees pads cant match the nissin ones.

Hope this helps and this thread is almost dead without seniors sorry for late reply

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

300v is a very good oil for r15. It makes the bike more grunty and somehow works in.such mysterious ways that you feel like a addition of 0.5-1 bhp power. I know its a placebo effect but i didn't had that experience with yamalube or 7100 .if you have money to get it ,then go get 300v. I did ~7000kms on that oil and it didn't even felt like giving up.after that gave the bike away so don't know much.but it felt the oil would've gold good for other 700_800kms. Good luck.