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Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

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  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

    Originally posted by black asp View Post
    Changed the oil today. The oil had run around 1800 kms with bumper to bumper traffic and occasional madness thrown into the mix.
    This is the result.
    Was expecting more oil loss but this sort of low oil consumption amazed me too.
    One headache struck off the list.
    Switched back to 5100 5000 kms back as shell felt like garbage. The new variety of shell doesn't work for me.

    CHEERS
    I have moved from Motul to shell semi synthetic this time. Engine tightness has been reduced a lot and free revving. With Motul and Castrol I always have a gut feeling I might bump across duplicate. With Shell I purchase from Shell Bunk so I have peace of mind. Is DID chain kit still available or replaced by Rolon. Last time I could find only Rolon kit in the service center. Looks like DID'd will easily last 50K rather than 10-12k with Rolons.
    https://www.facebook.com/TopCoatDetailersTCD/
    https://www.instagram.com/topcoat_detailers/

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    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

      Originally posted by vijaycool View Post
      I have moved from Motul to shell semi synthetic this time. Engine tightness has been reduced a lot and free revving. With Motul and Castrol I always have a gut feeling I might bump across duplicate. With Shell I purchase from Shell Bunk so I have peace of mind. Is DID chain kit still available or replaced by Rolon. Last time I could find only Rolon kit in the service center. Looks like DID'd will easily last 50K rather than 10-12k with Rolons.
      No offence I was running shell AX7 SS for more than 50k kms. I think I am in a position to judge it better. With my habit of throwing away oil every 1500 kms shell would be significantly cheaper for me but still I reverted back to the costlier motul 5100 because all of a sudden for 3 consecutive oil changes the shell oil became harsh and started turning black sooner. Engine sounded like a pulsar or worse. I thought the time for a bore change has come. So I switched back to motul to check and it's fine now.
      Anyways I never get oil from local shops. I get it from authorized distributers. In case of shell I get it from the petrol bunks.
      The older variety of shell was good. It had different packing. New one not so.
      No idea about if DID chain is still there or not. Last replaced the chain some 80k kms back in 2013.
      If given the option I will opt for DID any day.

      CHEERS
      Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
      Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
      Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
      Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
      RX 135 4 speed(1998)
      Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

      Comment


      • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

        Originally posted by black asp View Post
        Mine is a 2011 model V2 and afaik the rings are different and are of better quality than the current r15 we get. Probably something to do with that or could be some changes to the resonator box. The new R15 have a closed loop Fi so it could be that their noise suppression system would be different or resonator box could be different.

        The models you mentioned is a lot different mechanically to v1s or pre 2014 v2s

        CHEERS
        Since you mentioned about the new versions of the R15 having closed loop FI system. It is something I've been trying to figure out for quite some time now.

        I own a 2016 model R15s, could you help me find where the exhaust O2 lambda sensor is located? I have checked across the entire length of the exhaust but couldn't find it.

        For e.g. on the Bajaj Dominar (Which also has a closed loop FI) the exhaust port lambda sensor is located right below the exhaust pipe where it bends towards the underbelly muffler assembly.

        Cheers!
        Yamaha YZF R15-S 2016 (Current- Daily Driver)
        Bajaj Avenger 220 DTSi 2008 (Sold)
        Tvs Scooty Zest 2014 (Current)
        Suzuki Access 2013 (Sold)
        Bajaj Pulsar UG3 2007 (Sold)
        Honda Activa 1st Gen 2006 (Current)

        Comment


        • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

          Originally posted by yamahamann View Post
          Since you mentioned about the new versions of the R15 having closed loop FI system. It is something I've been trying to figure out for quite some time now.

          I own a 2016 model R15s, could you help me find where the exhaust O2 lambda sensor is located? I have checked across the entire length of the exhaust but couldn't find it.

          For e.g. on the Bajaj Dominar (Which also has a closed loop FI) the exhaust port lambda sensor is located right below the exhaust pipe where it bends towards the underbelly muffler assembly.

          Cheers!
          Check at the point where the exhaust comes out of the cylinder head. you will find a plug kind of thing there. That's the O2 sensor. Its not plugged onto the exhaust but instead its attached to the cylinder head.

          CHEERS
          Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
          Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
          Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
          Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
          Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
          RX 135 4 speed(1998)
          Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
          Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
          Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

          Comment


          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

            Originally posted by yamahamann View Post
            Since you mentioned about the new versions of the R15 having closed loop FI system. It is something I've been trying to figure out for quite some time now.

            I own a 2016 model R15s, could you help me find where the exhaust O2 lambda sensor is located? I have checked across the entire length of the exhaust but couldn't find it.

            For e.g. on the Bajaj Dominar (Which also has a closed loop FI) the exhaust port lambda sensor is located right below the exhaust pipe where it bends towards the underbelly muffler assembly.

            Cheers!
            What, black asp said.

            Click image for larger version

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            R15 v2.0 O2 or lambda sensor position.

            Cheers!
            VJ
            Last edited by B7ACKTHORN; 06-27-2017, 11:18 PM.
            Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
            The girl said, 'NO!'


            And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.


            THE END

            Comment


            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

              Hey guys, quick question.. How long does the coneset lasts? As in 15000kms I've had to change it twice.

              Comment


              • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                Hey guys, quick question.. How long does the coneset lasts? As in 15000kms I've had to change it twice.
                Anywhere between 6 to 20k
                Mine needs reconditioning after 13 15k.
                Seen guys change cone sets after 6000 kms too

                CHEERS
                Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
                Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
                Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
                Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
                Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
                RX 135 4 speed(1998)
                Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
                Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
                Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

                Comment


                • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                  Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                  Hey guys, quick question.. How long does the coneset lasts? As in 15000kms I've had to change it twice.
                  Mine is now due for replacement/ reconditioning. My bike is running at 32500kms .
                  >>>>Beware of Zombies<<<<
                  The Best way is a Highway!!!!!

                  Comment


                  • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                    Do both of you are running on company fitted coneset or had it changed?

                    And you mean to say that its normal that the coneset in my case had to be replaced twice in 15k kms?

                    Because i don't know whats the root cause behind it. Bad quality parts, riding style, crash?

                    Comment


                    • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                      Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                      Do both of you are running on company fitted coneset or had it changed?

                      And you mean to say that its normal that the coneset in my case had to be replaced twice in 15k kms?

                      Because i don't know whats the root cause behind it. Bad quality parts, riding style, crash?
                      My bike has run more than 1 lakh kms so there is no way I could have completed that much kms with the company fitted one. I refurbish them every 13k kms and change it after every alternate refurbishing.
                      Some parts of Yamaha like clutch Bell and conesets are garbage. Go bad easily.

                      CHEERS
                      Yamaha RXZ 5 speed (sold)
                      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS fi( sold)
                      Bajaj Discover 112(2006)
                      Yamaha R15 V2(2011)
                      Yezdi 250 model B(1978)
                      RX 135 4 speed(1998)
                      Yamaha Rajdoot 350(1989-unrestored)
                      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2011)Crashed and sold :'(
                      Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i (2009-Fastest Indian)

                      Comment


                      • Yamaha R15v2 Fault Code

                        Hi Guys,

                        My yamaha R15v2 is not starting and flashing engine error light. Flashing pattern is 4 times slow blinking and then 8 times rapid blinking. I found the service manual of V1 on forum but fault code 48 is not in that manual. Kindly help me as nearest service station is 20 KMs away.

                        Comment


                        • Help on R15v2 fork alignment

                          I had dropped my bike on the right side and again on the left side after a week. The fall was between 10-20 kmph not a major one. Still my steering column was bent. I had given the bike to Vinayak Yamaha, Domlur, Bangalore. They had removed fork bend, changed both left and right handle bar pieces and changed the cone set bearings too. Still, I feel like the left handle bar is low compared to right. I had taken to the showroom again, but they say there is no issue, the alignment is perfect. I checked for the alignment of left and right handle bar by checking the gap between petrol tank and handle bar, it is fine. But, I feel like bike is leaning towards left. Please let me know if you guys know what might be the issue, or any expert who can identify the issue in and around Bangalore.

                          Comment


                          • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                            Originally posted by Dixant Thakore View Post
                            Do both of you are running on company fitted coneset or had it changed?

                            And you mean to say that its normal that the coneset in my case had to be replaced twice in 15k kms?

                            Because i don't know whats the root cause behind it. Bad quality parts, riding style, crash?
                            Brother, I've had to change my cone-set twice too, in 18K kms. And they're a big hole-burner for the pocket.

                            My first set lasted 12K, which came with the bike, assuming good quality fitment from factory. The second one lasted only 8K.

                            I've read a post about someone fitting a pulsar one to R15, which costs ₹250. But can't get myself to go for that.

                            It's not your riding style or our potholes, it's the substandard quality of parts

                            Sent from my Moto G (4) using xBhp Connect mobile app

                            Comment


                            • Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

                              Originally posted by black asp View Post
                              Anywhere between 6 to 20k
                              Mine needs reconditioning after 13 15k.
                              Seen guys change cone sets after 6000 kms too

                              CHEERS
                              What exactly do you refer to as refurbishmemt? Removal+Greasing+refitting?

                              The ASC mechanic said once it's taken out, we replace it as it cannot be fitted again. Which is bullshit as the manual refers to greasing them every 12K kms.

                              Can you guide me please? I have a little bit of shudder in my handlebar, and I'm reluctant to take it to ASC as I know they'll insist on replacing my cone-set.

                              Regards,
                              Rishikesh

                              Sent from my Moto G (4) using xBhp Connect mobile app

                              Comment


                              • Error code 46? Try these broke, before you replace the RR unit!

                                I have heard people talking about the infamous error code 46 for R15 and how it keeps coming back! Of course, 46 belongs to Rossi and will surprise us with a comeback. I have heard people talk about it, seen people have it but never experienced it and felt escaped.

                                And on one already bad morning, turned my bike ON to welcome a non invited guest, the error code 46. Personally, use my bike rarely so thought battery should be the culprit, to add more sense to my suspicion the battery was also 4 years old, and the last time I started my bike I remembered the bike to struggle to start-up. And now after the error code 46, the bike only push starts plus the service manual suggests to replace the battery as one the option to solve the error code 46.

                                So me being super broke, decided to try these methods that I found from various online sources before going to final and unfortunate option of replacing the battery or RR unit or the fuel injector!

                                It is also important to try these methods before you actually replace any of the spares. Cause, not checking the things below is the reason why the error code 46 might creep up over and over again and the usual solution from the Yamaha service guys is to blindly replace the RR unit which costs around 850Rs every time this issue comes up without diagnosing the actual culprit.

                                Things to check:
                                Battery voltage,
                                Battery terminal for corrosion, (Might over charge or under charge the system)
                                Ground connection.
                                Fuse
                                Fuel infector coupler for misfits and loose connections
                                RR unit terminals.

                                1.Took the battery out and checked it with a multimeter and It showed the usual 12-12.05 volts. Then wondered why the bike only push started, and came to know that everyone who had error code 46 or any other error code were only able to stat their bike by pushing it. Any how, me, strongly believing the battery to be the culprit took it to the local battery shop for recharging. The guy there checked the battery and said battery has full power, your bike has some other problem.

                                Still wasn't convinced, and was also desperate for a 5ah battery upgrade so changed the battery, initially after changing the battery from the Amaron pit stop, the bike didn't show any errors and started at the first crank. And when I came back home and when tried to crank the bike again, error code 46 showed up!

                                I would recommend others to just clean their battery terminals with vinegar and baking soda paste as it would solve the battery terminal corrosion issue which might under charge or over charge the system, since I changed to a new battery, skipped to clean the terminals and just coated them with vaseline.

                                Next, is to check the ground cable?a black wire that runs from the negative terminal of the battery and gets attached on the inner side of the delta box frame. On my bike, the point where the earth wire connect to the frame was covered by muck and was corroded, so I sprayed some choke cleaner to dissolve the muck and later cleaned it with vinegar and baking soda paste and let it dry. Also check for any damages to the cable, mine seemed fine.

                                Now turned the ignition ON, still the error code 46! Searched the web and found faulty connections to the fuel injector might also be the culprit, so removed the cable connecting the injector lead wire, connected and disconnected several times as suggested by the service manual to solve loose connections and in the process found one of the pin to be bent, so straightened it carefully with a safety pin and turned the bike on happily assuming I solved the issue just to find the error code 46 still up!

                                At this point I wanted to know who is the actual culprit, so decided to remove the fuel injectors electrical connection and tried to push start the bike, what a stupid move that was! The bike sounded weirdly, shutdown by itself and a new error 39 came up along with the pre-existing 46! But the error code 39 vanished as soon as I put the injector back and push started the bike.

                                Now I agree with the service centre guys to blindly change the RR since it is the most likely culprit, though the service manual suggest error code 46 to be a problem with the entire fuel injection system.

                                Next to check the fuse, honestly I don't how to check if the fuses is damaged, I just opened the assembly in desperation and blankly starred it for a minute and then just put it back, I suggest to get the fuse replaced as it solved the issue for some, also there is also another method beyond logic that worked for one guy, He just shaked the hub of wires near the left side panel and the error code seemed to go off. I don't know what the guy was saying, since It was a spanish video many gave thumbs up to it, so I guess this might work on others unfortunately not for me!

                                Finally before jumping into the sad conclusion of replacing the RR. I opted for the last step. Reached the RR unit and took the connection off and cleaned the terminals with vinegar baking soda paste, put it back and started the bike with no hope, VIOLA!! Error code 46 gone forever!

                                So I suggest anyone to first clean the battery terminal, ground connection and the RR terminals with vinegar and baking soda paste, check for the error and then later proceed for the other broke options. Had just spent 2Rs for the baking soda and that was it! Ofcourse I got the battery replaced but that was more like an upgrade that I wanted for years as the stock 3amps were poor from day 1.

                                Comment

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