I have heard people talking about the infamous error code 46 for R15 and how it keeps coming back! Of course, 46 belongs to Rossi and will surprise us with a comeback. I have heard people talk about it, seen people have it but never experienced it and felt escaped.

And on one already bad morning, turned my bike ON to welcome a non invited guest, the error code 46. Personally, use my bike rarely so thought battery should be the culprit, to add more sense to my suspicion the battery was also 4 years old, and the last time I started my bike I remembered the bike to struggle to start-up. And now after the error code 46, the bike only push starts plus the service manual suggests to replace the battery as one the option to solve the error code 46.

So me being super broke, decided to try these methods that I found from various online sources before going to final and unfortunate option of replacing the battery or RR unit or the fuel injector!

It is also important to try these methods before you actually replace any of the spares. Cause, not checking the things below is the reason why the error code 46 might creep up over and over again and the usual solution from the Yamaha service guys is to blindly replace the RR unit which costs around 850Rs every time this issue comes up without diagnosing the actual culprit.

Things to check:
Battery voltage,
Battery terminal for corrosion, (Might over charge or under charge the system)
Ground connection.
Fuse
Fuel infector coupler for misfits and loose connections
RR unit terminals.

1.Took the battery out and checked it with a multimeter and It showed the usual 12-12.05 volts. Then wondered why the bike only push started, and came to know that everyone who had error code 46 or any other error code were only able to stat their bike by pushing it. Any how, me, strongly believing the battery to be the culprit took it to the local battery shop for recharging. The guy there checked the battery and said battery has full power, your bike has some other problem.

Still wasn't convinced, and was also desperate for a 5ah battery upgrade so changed the battery, initially after changing the battery from the Amaron pit stop, the bike didn't show any errors and started at the first crank. And when I came back home and when tried to crank the bike again, error code 46 showed up!

I would recommend others to just clean their battery terminals with vinegar and baking soda paste as it would solve the battery terminal corrosion issue which might under charge or over charge the system, since I changed to a new battery, skipped to clean the terminals and just coated them with vaseline.

Next, is to check the ground cable?a black wire that runs from the negative terminal of the battery and gets attached on the inner side of the delta box frame. On my bike, the point where the earth wire connect to the frame was covered by muck and was corroded, so I sprayed some choke cleaner to dissolve the muck and later cleaned it with vinegar and baking soda paste and let it dry. Also check for any damages to the cable, mine seemed fine.

Now turned the ignition ON, still the error code 46! Searched the web and found faulty connections to the fuel injector might also be the culprit, so removed the cable connecting the injector lead wire, connected and disconnected several times as suggested by the service manual to solve loose connections and in the process found one of the pin to be bent, so straightened it carefully with a safety pin and turned the bike on happily assuming I solved the issue just to find the error code 46 still up!

At this point I wanted to know who is the actual culprit, so decided to remove the fuel injectors electrical connection and tried to push start the bike, what a stupid move that was! The bike sounded weirdly, shutdown by itself and a new error 39 came up along with the pre-existing 46! But the error code 39 vanished as soon as I put the injector back and push started the bike.

Now I agree with the service centre guys to blindly change the RR since it is the most likely culprit, though the service manual suggest error code 46 to be a problem with the entire fuel injection system.

Next to check the fuse, honestly I don't how to check if the fuses is damaged, I just opened the assembly in desperation and blankly starred it for a minute and then just put it back, I suggest to get the fuse replaced as it solved the issue for some, also there is also another method beyond logic that worked for one guy, He just shaked the hub of wires near the left side panel and the error code seemed to go off. I don't know what the guy was saying, since It was a spanish video many gave thumbs up to it, so I guess this might work on others unfortunately not for me!

Finally before jumping into the sad conclusion of replacing the RR. I opted for the last step. Reached the RR unit and took the connection off and cleaned the terminals with vinegar baking soda paste, put it back and started the bike with no hope, VIOLA!! Error code 46 gone forever!

So I suggest anyone to first clean the battery terminal, ground connection and the RR terminals with vinegar and baking soda paste, check for the error and then later proceed for the other broke options. Had just spent 2Rs for the baking soda and that was it! Ofcourse I got the battery replaced but that was more like an upgrade that I wanted for years as the stock 3amps were poor from day 1.

What should be the battery's voltagrme when the bike is OFF and hoe much should thr voltage be when the engine is ON?

Hello brothers,
What is the exact reserve fuel quantity in our R15?
My bike is not showing the 'F-' tripmeter even if the fuel comes down to less than 1 litre. I always fill the tank when the fuel comes to reserve.. But last time when the reserve meter came up and I filled the tank again consuming 11.8 litres of petrol!! So what could be the problem?
Please shed some light on this..
Thanks in advance..
Ride Safe!

it's time to change my bike's tyres (odo at ~24500 kms) and after quite a lot of thought and dilemma, i've decided to try out pirelli sport demon tyres about which so much good words have been written in this thread and elsewhere..i know its life will be much less than the stock MRFs, but if it gives me at least 12-15000 kms (i hope) then i'm good for it..that's like 2-3 years of riding for me and after that time i'll likely be getting one of those ~300cc segment bikes anyway...cost-wise there's little difference between PSD and MRF in amazon website...weight wise the PSD are 0.5 kg lighter on both tyres..

problem is, there's a 130/70 rear PSD for R15 but the corresponding front is 100/80 or 100/90... the R15's stock front tyre dimension is 90/80...can any of those who have used this tyre tell me if that's the same that they have been using or was the 90/80 option available in the past but not anymore ? i expect a wider front to change its handling dynamics sufficiently enough to be noticeable..better cornering and braking grip (aside from that coming from the softer compound itself) presumably, but anything (sufficiently) negative ? more importantly, will the wider front tyre even fit the front wheel and forks assembly ?

Hey there!

I understand from your post that ideally you want to upgrade / up-size the stock spec Tyres of the good ol' R15.

Well if this is your first Tyre change then I would like to tell you that the PSD do not offer massive improvements in grip over the stock rubber. In fact, it will be a downgrade in terms of on-paper performance, since the PSD is a cross ply Tyre unlike the Revz-S which is a radial Tyre (less rolling resistance and wider contact patch).

However since the profile of the Tyre is the same you can go for the rear 130/70/17 Tyre as PSD and it shall be no-issue. If you are looking to go a bit wider than the stock rubber, then MRF makes one specifically for the R15 in their Masseter range. Approx cost is about INR 3300 with fitment when I inquired at a local dealer last month. The profile for the Massetter is 140/70/17 and this again is a soft compound tyre with decent wet-grip.

One up-size at the rear Tyre is easily accommodated by the swing-arm/suspension.

For the front Tyre, I recommend you to stick with the stock MRF Zapper FY1 with the 90/80/17 profile and sticky compound, since no other tyre comes close to the grip and feedback provided by this rubber. This is one gem of a Tyre made by MRF at this price about of INR 1650.

A disadvantage of up-sizing the front Tyre which comes to mind right off the bat is the increased steering resistance! Why mess with the R15's amazing handling which already is as good as it gets?

Just some thoughts. Do wait for other members to chime in!
Cheers & Ride safe.

any comments or suggestions from anyone else who has used the PSD tyres recently ?

Used them 4 years back were bald within 8k kms.
CHEERS

shit, really ? 8k is too less...both tyres went bald so soon ?

grip, handling etc wise did you see any significant difference (positive or negative) ?


i am just really looking for a more grippy rear tyre...the stock front's grip is great, i don't necessarily want to change that, but the stock rear IMO leaves me wanting for more...

I was using zapper S(R15 v1 rear tyre) in the front and PSD in the rear
Grip was very good in the dry never tried heroics in the wet with that front tyre so can't judge.