BS29 used to be Rs.2,400/- 6 months back.

Today I came to know the price of RTR and Pulsar 180 carbs. RTR 180 carb is RS.4550/- and Pulsar 180 carb is 2480/-.... Both bike uses BS29 carbs and I think both carbs are *make by UCAL only...But Why there is so much of rate difference between RTR 180 carb and Pulsar 180 carb?? Is there any major technical difference between these carburetors??

I've been using the pulsar 180 carb on my fiero from quite a while.
Technically there's no difference between the two carbs, the jet size differs marginally.

Both of these carbs are manufactured by UCAL as you mentioned, so there again is no difference, infact that's the reason I bought the same.

But after using it for almost a year now, I think the difference is that the Pulsar carb needs more frequent cleaning, the stock fiero carb was almost never ever opened from last 7 years, and the bajaj carb was cleaned 3 times already within a year, and again its giving me a carb slide being stuck issue very frequently.
The air filer is stock though.

You can clean the carb at home yourself, so as far as the frequent maintenance is concerned, it can be handled so it really makes more sense to go for the Bajaj carb.
The price difference being doubled also matters here.

All I am sharing here is my own experience and opinion, maybe the carb getting dirty frequently could also be because of some other reason, I am sure all the experts here would recommend you to go for the pulsar carb as they did to me when I was at your place.

bravo waiting for the pics

Here is a graphical representation of the AFR and it's effect on the Exhaust gas composition..hope this helps

guys, may be i have already mentioned the problem before, not sure though...

what happens is, that while riding the bike for say xyz kms i switch off my bike for sometime. then when i want to start it again it does not start at all.. it takes either 5 mins or maybe an hour to start. i always thought that it could be due to some carb prob where the fuel must have overflown or something.

but yesterday luckily the same thing happened while i was just about to leave home in the afternoon (as i had already ridden the bike for 30kms in the morning). i tried starting for like 15-20 mins, but it didnt start. so i called home my mechanic. He removed the spark plug wire and checked whether there was any current. but while kick starting the bike, there was no flow of current at all. so we push started the bike and it started. the mechanic doubts its either the CDI or the red cut-off switch thats causing the problem.

and this problem does not happen often. it could be 2-3 times a month. but its damm irritating. and it happens only after riding the bike, not at the first start of the day. now since that i have got used to it, what i do is i wait for like 15-20 mins (if the bike doesnt start at 1 or 2 kicks), and then when i try, it starts at one kick. God knows what the problem is. Could u guys help me out with this. and where exactly is the CDI located? underneath the tank or the seat?

The ASS will get the CDI today and also may be the cut off switch set as i will be giving the bike tomorrow for servicing.

Thanks..

Guys please help me... i am giving the bike for servicing tomorrow, and both the CDI as well as cutoff switch assembly has been ordered..

Check the following components in the order....

1. The engine Kill Switch
2. The Spark Plug Cap
3. The Ignition Switch.

One of them is developing loose contact and/or shorting and causing the intermittent problem......
You can also do the following to narrow it down....disconnect the engine kill switch and change the spark plug cap...if you still get the problem then the Ignition switch is suspect...

Thnx... but do u think there is any need to replace the CDI?? i mean if the CDI had to go kaput, there there not be any flow of current to the plugs at all.... correct me if i am wrong.

This problem started for almost a year back, i always used to doubt the carb.

The ASS has got both the cutoff switch and the CDI. i think i will first change the cutoff switch and then check if the problem arises again.

If CDI fails the bike will not start at all....it is not in my check list i posted...

and also when i took the bike for a checkup after push starting it, i found out that the current is very weak. so what he did was, he cut the plug wire (which goes into the plug cap) by a few mm and then checked, the current given out was strong, visually atleast.

the ignition switch as well as the cutoff switch are like 3-5ys old out of 9 yrs (bikes age). i have already changed them once. anyways i will first change the kill switch, if the problem is solved then well and good!

Hi All
Wishing all members Happy Deepawali in advance. and wishing that this forum comes in to its full colour soon
regards
Dinesh

Thank you&wish you all the same!
I got my bike serviced last week. Hardly anything major to do after the head work was done last time. Bike is still a pleasure to ride.
2 of the niggles still remain-1st is the grinding noise in 2nd gear (even after replacing clutch kit, valves, cam parts etc.) for which gearbox opening is required and
Front suspension-he recommends fork pistons of Apache...I have already changed the inner tubes&springs. Now what is piston inside the front forks?

Hey Sarvajit.

I don't think the front forks of the apache would fit your F2.
I was getting a pair of fiero ones (not originals) for 2200.
The original ones are even more expensive, and take months to arrive.

Grinding noise ?
Only in 2nd gear ? that's strange...