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Thanks sir , for demo animation, this will require calibration,Originally posted by firegun View PostThanks

some diametric peripherial combination of both pulleys too will require calibration. what i suggest is to look for belts(cost and performance) that are available in market that can with stand load conditions , V belt will be a bad idea as tends to slip after some usage and have high rolling resistence.
Matching pulleys , mounting a pulley to rear wheel should be easy , pulley towards transmission will be tedious due to space constraint , complexity at shaft and in GS adjusting the speedo - sensor will be hectic.
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[QUOTE=firegun;828012]For me Belt type is best AFAIK
Yes, i too sure that it will eliminate the chain noise
add to it ,
1)there will be no jerks when accelerating- deaccelerating suddenly
2)smooth transmission
3)no vibes in any rpm/speed range , tension of drive ( engine) and rear wheel will minimise vibes.
4)if quality of belt / pulley assembly is upto the mark and belt has suffiecient tension through out its service life , it will last forever without any maintanance.
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Originally posted by rharish90 View Post
Bro, can I know from where you got the Sirac? I have been looking for the same. How much was the resale value of the old tyre?
For the vibrations, check this link. It has the solution. You need to add a washer. That's all.
http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/815716-post16175.html
Hello Harish, I got it from CHERRY AGENCIES, East end main road, Jayanagar 9th block, b'lore, Ph: 080-41656901. They have good collection of tyres of different brands. But Sirac 110/90 was not at stock, so I had to fit 100/90.
I got it for 2400/- (including fitting & nitrogen filling charges).
My stock tyre was 1 year old, has no good resale value and its with me as spare.
And thanks for the link
Regards.sigpicFocus on being productive, not busy.
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Yes my friend thats going to be a big problemOriginally posted by Vikshe View Postcomplexity at shaft and in GS adjusting the speedo - sensor will be hectic.
Belt drive which i was thinking is shown in the below picture clearly, we going to try follow this methodOriginally posted by Vikshe View Postadd to it ,
1)there will be no jerks when accelerating- deaccelerating suddenly
2)smooth transmission
3)no vibes in any rpm/speed range , tension of drive ( engine) and rear wheel will minimise vibes.
4)if quality of belt / pulley assembly is upto the mark and belt has suffiecient tension through out its service life , it will last forever without any maintanance.

Here is a Link for a Belt drive system :
Last edited by firegun; 06-16-2012, 01:35 PM.
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Please do not try Fully Synthetic oil during Run-in [up to 3000 kms on odo]Originally posted by Nihal View PostGuys please help...
i never recommend synthetic oils for normal city driving use and long drive as well.
the cheap and best mineral oils proved they are good at most of the Indian driving environment.
am not discouraging you from trying synthetic; but synthetic is not the only solution it can be achieved using mineral oil too.
the things need to be checked while purchasing oils are
> Brand [leave it to your personal choice but in my experience motul Gulf and Elf are good]
> make sure its a genuine oil; and not duplicate
> check your manual for suitable grade (GS will go good with 10w - 40)
> not just the price label remember to check the expiry date and if any offer there.
> check the quantity (1 ltr or 900 ml)Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity
Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel
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@Nihal:: Yes you can try 300V , ,There are two grades available in 300v...get the 10w-40 grade.,
if that grade is not available in 300v you can also try 7100 4t 10w-40 which is also a FS oil from Motul...Last edited by gmagesh14; 06-16-2012, 02:11 PM.
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Never knew it had so many advantages. Good to know. Thanks.Originally posted by firegun View Post
Only problem i was thinking right now is, how to fix the speed sensor when converted to belt drive
Thanks for the shop bro. Will go there soon and check what is in store.Originally posted by uppad1 View PostHello Harish, I got it from CHERRY AGENCIES, East end main road, Jayanagar 9th block, b'lore, Ph: 080-41656901. They have good collection of tyres of different brands. But Sirac 110/90 was not at stock, so I had to fit 100/90.
I got it for 2400/- (including fitting & nitrogen filling charges).
My stock tyre was 1 year old, has no good resale value and its with me as spare.
And thanks for the link
Regards.
Thanks for the picture.Originally posted by firegun View PostYes my friend thats going to be a big problem
Belt drive which i was thinking is shown in the below picture clearly, we going to try follow this method

Here is a Link for a Belt drive system :
SuperMax Belt Drives For Harley-Davidson Motorcycles
Why is it that you don't advice full synthetic oils? I thought they were good for long rides as they have very high change intervals and they cause less friction in the engine, so cooler running. Am I wrong somewhere?Originally posted by MSN1 View PostPlease do not try Fully Synthetic oil during Run-in [up to 3000 kms on odo]
i never recommend synthetic oils for normal city driving use and long drive as well.
the cheap and best mineral oils proved they are good at most of the Indian driving environment.
am not discouraging you from trying synthetic; but synthetic is not the only solution it can be achieved using mineral oil too.
the things need to be checked while purchasing oils are
> Brand [leave it to your personal choice but in my experience motul Gulf and Elf are good]
> make sure its a genuine oil; and not duplicate
> check your manual for suitable grade (GS will go good with 10w - 40)
> not just the price label remember to check the expiry date and if any offer there.
> check the quantity (1 ltr or 900 ml)2004 Bajaj Discover 125 DTSi - 26000 KM - Sold
2012 Suzuki GS150R
My travel blog: http://blogofharish.wordpress.com/category/bike-trips/
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FS oils are tooo good; and must for top speed racing and again in indian road condition and considering the driving persons health we need to take at-least 100 kms once rest.Originally posted by rharish90 View Post
Why is it that you don't advice full synthetic oils? I thought they were good for long rides as they have very high change intervals and they cause less friction in the engine, so cooler running. Am I wrong somewhere?
so for along drive with stop at every 100 kms just mineral is apt, but synthetic is too good.
our GS is air cooled engineSarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity
Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel
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Apart from the technical aspect, the cost difference is not proportionate to the difference in change intervals. Most FS oils cost 3-4 times more than mineral oils or double that of SS oils but the change interval is just 2-3 times more than mineral oils.Originally posted by rharish90 View PostWhy is it that you don't advice full synthetic oils? I thought they were good for long rides as they have very high change intervals and they cause less friction in the engine, so cooler running. Am I wrong somewhere?
FS oils are also some of the most duplicated commodities so unless you are experienced enough to differentiate the real deal from fake, you could be cheated into buying duplicate/adulterated oil which apart from monetary loss, also damages the engine affecting engine life.
Using good quality FS oil might be good but there are more VFM alternatives. The number of people looking to change to FS prompted me to post this. Some people also have a belief that engine oils boost performance.In today's world, quotes don't matter. Quotas do!
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Engine oil + Filter must be replaced at the time/distance interval mentioned by the vehicle manufacturer, irrespective of whether it is synthetic or mineral. This has been beaten to death here:
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Again, the one size fits all rule can't be applied to everyone, so FS oils are really required for those who constantly redline and long range tourers. Many people, even some friends of mine use FS oils because of a higher change interval which in my opinion is not worth the change to FS.Originally posted by Gansan View PostEngine oil + Filter must be replaced at the time/distance interval mentioned by the vehicle manufacturer, irrespective of whether it is synthetic or mineral. This has been beaten to death here:
https://www.google.com/url?q=http://..._-fI81kkMA6PNgIn today's world, quotes don't matter. Quotas do!
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