Here are the details:

HID: 35W 4300k Bi xenon with 1 year warranty
Price: Rs.1425 shipped to Pune, delhi seller
Fitting cost: 270Rs.
Current review: HID beam is much much superior to halogens, no comparo at all. Fitting is comparitively easy. Open up the big bunch of wires connecting to headlight, find the yellow wire with white stripes, that is the current source from RR to headlight, which is AC. Disconnect it, and connect the headlight to DC power. This particular bulb works in parallel, so for connecting upper and lower, you need to connect both of them to the positive coming from DC. Mine got connected ULTA, so upper is dipper and vice versa.

HID is flickering at stand up/low rpm, but once I gather speed, it is stable. Am looking for answers as to how to re route the old AC powersource to headlight back to powering battery by converting it to DC.

The glare is there, but seemingly not much, as no curse words or upper-dipper sign from people coming from front.

hey good to know that you have installed hid. You said you have connected the hid to dc input after disconnecting the ac wire coming from the rr unit to light. So I guess you have connected the headlight to back light input as it is dc. Please let me know exactly what you have done as i am really interested in doing the job. Also what did you do to take care of the charging rate? Have you checked the charging rate yet after putting on the hid? Please let me know. Raj

Thank you Akfara, Falcon and Rajesh for your Inputs.

Finally, i found a couple of Shops that stock most of the Oils. All thanks to Justdial Website. You can find pretty much everything here.

The Shopkeeper to whom i spoke on the Phone stocks Mobil1, Motul 5100 Semi Synth & 300v Synth, Elf Oils, Gulf Pride 4T Plus, Shell Semi Synth and Synthetic Oils.

Now, i am really confused which Oil to go for and which Viscosity type to choose ?

Now since the Rains have started and the Winter will follow suit, should i stick to the Stock 20w 40 or will 10w 40 or 15w 40 be more beneficial ?

Is Gulf Pride 4T Plus Mineral or Semi Synth Oil ?

I am kind of deciding between Motul 5100 10w 40, Gulf Pride 4T 20w 40 and Shell Advance VSX 10w 40 Semi Synth ?
The Shopkeeper suggested Elf Oil but i have rarely heard about it.

Which should be my Best Bet ? Suggestions Guys...

The procedure is simple, but better use a bike techician. Because chances are there that you may cut the wrong wire!

I haven't done anything about the charging rate. I read on this forum, that for Unicorn at around 4k rpm, the battery input is same as battery output for HID, so we don't have to worry about highway riding. In city though, it may create some problems, and we may need to charge the battery. The HID flickers at standing or low riding, but it is fine at about 30kmph speed. I am yet to test it thoroughly.

so, to which wire did you have the hid connected? Also did you change the fuse or the stock will be ok? Raj

gulf is semi... and if you get 10w40 it is good... cos if temp in your locality go to that level. then you wont find problem during morning kicks.

GULF PRIDE4T PLUS 20W40(BLACK BOTTLE) s 100% mineral oil.....In gulf in xxw40 grade it has only one product available....they are planning to launch
xxw30 fs oil this year........

In SS oils motul is best...Veedol super swift is also have good reviews....

gulf oil drain period is 10k kms written on bottle how is it possible for mineral oil dude

Their oil may last for more than 10'k but our engine won't

ha ha well said bro but gulf pride is a good oil

I think maintaining a proper break in is turning to be a pain in my arse
anyway..... sometimes a bit longer working of the engine is needed,otherwise most of the times I have seen that the bike on completing its breakin refuses to nudge ahead at higher rpms.

I follow simple things for break in.
1.Not stressing the engine and making it run freely.
2.Optimising carb settings as normal during break-in.
3.Switching onto an A grade recommended grade Engine oil in the initial 750kms.

Lately I felt a power lag from my bike.........later I found that the culprit is a Loose chain
My mechanic told that the company has heavily greased my new chain,so constant using it has caused the chain to slacken resulting in low output of high power.This thing has been resolved on my bike,for now.......maybe next week a tightening again,in order to outrun the heavy greasing.The bike is now on its own......the smoothest,the fastest among 150cc(FZs and RTRs really revs mad to go for a catch up,after I gently pass them ).......though for the break in I am not revving over 4300 till the 4th gear.
I have also tuned my carb for optimised normal fuel mix,and putting out the absurd lean mix.It result was evident as the bike felt even more smoother in the lower revs and the heat sinking click-click has been reduced to none !!!!!
Leaner carb mixtures often heats up valve trains ridiculously,which results in the click-click sound from the engine and exhaust as it cools down for a longer time.A bit richer mix,which is actually optimum address it.Ok this setting on a new ride may give a mileage not more than 35kmpl,but I actually want to use this bike for a lifetime

My rpm for run-in rule.Fast and hard revving in lower gears screws up the engine and glazes it in runin.Since this bike is gifted with ample amount of torque and 5th and 6th gears,I never rev the bike above 4300rpm till 4th gear.I shift the gear at that rpm till 4th gear,as a result,low pick up Now this really helps the engine,the engine is never stressed
and so no fear of glazing of parts.Now,in the fifth and sixth gear,I let the engine rev freely without any stress.........neither restricting revs,nor over revving it.So far I found,its profoundly and totally silent at 6500-7000rpm and moves very freely.I love this feeling,the bike is actually running freely,which is most important for its good well being and life long reliability.Thanks to God for gifting me the tendency of constantly gear shifting,I manage to ride the bike in dense city traffic in 6th gear too,making the engine move as freely as possible.6th gear can take up confidently from 5500rpm and it de-stresses the engine totally !!!!!! A very helpful gear for a good run-in.

Next is.......I am going to say a good NO to Suzuki oils......which are basically Castrol oils.I have taken up the issue to the SVC and they told us,they dont have any objection so far the oil meets the grade and I buy them during my free services.So I said a big THANKS to SVC for this freedom and is presently in hunt of Motul 3000 4T plus........its a very good 20w40 mineral oil.Available in my city,I heard.....so going for it this week.If not available,then Kudos....trusted old Castrol Active 4t with its drawbacks or anything else,be it Gulf or Shell but not Suzuki Oils,they are good for nothing.These oils run out of punch at 700kms !!!! I had experienced them with my previous ride Zeus.

So far too Good I love the engine balancer,I love anti knock systems and I love the unlimited thrust of power which wants to fly.......but I hate the clumsy Run-in period

Thats all for update as of now for my new ride

@ MACH50

Since you are aware of running period and glazing of engine it wont be a problem. But it may be misleading to others. Once we know the power in higher rpm we tend to rev engine and may lead to unnecessary heating. My personal opinion is not to rev past 6K mark till the first oil change.

Ride safe......

You actually got the best HID friend Its wonderful infact......the 4300k...WOW!!!
The 4300 is unique,its lighting is normal,no blue,no green,no purple,but white....brilliant white.Which makes it seem no different from a regular colour of a normal Halogen...but ahem,its HID which means unmatched Intensity.Which translates into the scientific issue that this color range wont make the light fade in rains.Common problem with higher rated HID's,they are useless in rains.
So I was also thinking of this 4300K HID for my bike....good that I have some one with it now.I will try searching my city for 4300 rated HID.If I dont find,I will contact Animeher for the Delhi based dealer's info and how to get the HID out from him

@anupdas......Thanks Anup for your concern and appreciation as well

I also used the Motoman Break-in method with my own modifications based on my observation and knowledge.

What I did:
1) The bike was delivered with 2Kms on the ODO. I had insisted that the fuel be put to the bike only in front of me and I will start the engine for the first time.
2) Before the delivery had found a stretch of 5kms of clear highway and planned break in there.
3) I figured out the only possible evil of a harsh break-in was engine glazing. And heat is very necessary for that. So if I can make sure that there is no overheat, then it should be fine.
4) I idled the engine for a few minutes to let the engine warm up. At this time bluish smoke was coming out of the engine, because it was the first run. In the meantime all the formalities was complete and the bike was mine to be taken home.
5) I checked air pressure and proper working of both brakes, clutch etc, filled fuel, checked oil. I rode for some time in all the gears and then proceeded to the highway. The ODO read something between 15-20kms. The engine was hot. The heat could be felt with a new smell. Waited for about 15mins until the engine was back at ambient temp.
6) Kick started the bike and in the 1 gear accelerated slowly to 4500RPM. As soon as it reached 4500 closed the throttle until the RPM was back at 3500. Repeated 2 more times.
7) Then after reaching 5000RPM up-shifted to 2 and slowly reached 4500RPM. Repeated the above step till the 4 gear.
8) Turned the engine off and cooled off until back at ambient temp. This time it took about 20 mins.
9) Repeated the above procedure once in every gear. Closed throttle at 5000RPM in the 4th gear, down shifted to 2nd (with blipping the throttle).
10) Now in the 2nd gear slowly accelerated to 6500RPM, closed throttle till reached 3500RPM again slowly accelerated to 6500RPM. Did this a total of 3 times in 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear. The bike was very hot.
11) Turned off the engine until back at ambient temp. Parked the bike called friends and told them about my new bike etc to pass time. Let the engine cool thoroughly. It takes about 20mins.
12) Repeated step 10 with very quick acceleration.
13) Turned off the bike again to cool of for a few minutes. Did the above again 3 times with slow acceleration in 3rd,4th,5th and 6th gear this time only the max RPM limit was 8500RPM.
14) Turned off the bike and cooled off and repeated step 13 with quick acceleration. I never used the brakes only engine braking.

Now the ODO read 50kms. Almost 2 hours had passed. My break-in was complete. Oil was very dark. Went to a snack corner to relax off and then went home. Then rode very sanely keeping the 5000RPM limit with speed bursts with step 13 once every 100kms. Changed oil at 200kms (4th day). The oil was already fully black. again changed oil at 800Kms.

The reason why I did not want to stick to the manual is that many people because of strictly maintaining the RPM limit started experiencing vibrations past the limit RPM. Like many experienced vibes after 5000RPM. I never faced any vibrations except the 3500 ones in the beginning and after 9000RPM

The risk involved in the quick break-in is that if the engine is overheated, it will get glazed and there is no option but to re-bore the engine. High RPMs mean high speeds. Finding roads compitable for that in India is not easy. I was not sure about this method and did't want to others to risk it, hence did not post this here before. Now have run 9000Kms with no trouble.

Sorry for the long post.

Its actually good......though I am gonna try these after I had done 900kms of run in atleast.
Please, point out the parts that you have customised for yourself in this method ???