Would suggest not to go for FS as your place is not in extreme temperature's (either too cold or too hot)
"For a Racer FS is mandatory, but for a commuter, it wont make big difference"

Mineral is cheaper and you can keep using it up to 2000 kms and it wont harm the environment

SS and mineral doest have much difference as SS is made up of close to 75% mineral oil + approx of 25 % synthetic oil

still i will say even till 10,000 kms mineral or SS after 10 k go for FS if you want but its not mandatory, all bikes are capable of running on mineral oil till the end of its life





our GS is a japs (japanees technonogy engine) bike so no need to bring SAE standerd here just JASO MA2 is enough

i did used AGIP long back not happy with it and changed the oil just after 600 kms, its italian brand but made in mumbai.

forget what ever synthetic technology they writen on it, if the oil price is below 300 then its mineral oil only.

True........... and the only truly synthetic oil I find in India is Motul 300V

All grades of Motul is great, and our GS150R simply loves it.

The mineral grade is called 30004T plus with grades 20W40 and 15W50
The semi-synthetic variants are 5100 and 7100 with grades mostly 10W30 or 10W40
The top of line with a very different character is Motul 300V and it costs as much.

Many people takes Castrol Power 1 which is priced at 260bucks(green container) as fully synthetic, but the true Castrol Power 1 fully synthetic costs 650 bucks,it comes in light brown container.
Elf also bought a synthetic grade at 750 bucks.

So does all companies like AGIP,Shell,Gulf, Mobil and even Mak has synthetic oils...........and the truly synthetic oil has to exceed atleast Rs.450 bucks when it comes to quality.

The Motul 300V costs Rs.850..........perhaps the costliest of all motorcycle engine oils !!!!

It's a motul afterall.....my beast loves it....

Thank you so much

@Maestro
@MSN1
@MACH

Thanks a lot your replies are really helpful, sure i will go for Motul 3000 4T 20W-40 when the ODO cross 500km

May be i think i can find the Motul in Coimbatore will update back when i get one

Castrol SS will cost around 300 to 330 bucks

Actual castrol Fully synthetic comes in a different metal tin like container which is named as Power 1 Racing 4T

I did so because it was mentioned i our manual page 3-2 thats all.

anyhow no problem you guys have lot experience regarding the Oil that suits our GS

the profile picture of your really suits you as you are keenly referring the manual

if motul is not available try Gulf or valvoline or Elf

Thanks Bro, Sure i will Try any one of the above.



I put only one Eye on Microscope, Other Eye is on people who Guides Me

Use T spanner to loosen the bolts. GS is with chain cover and lubricating the chain is enough. To do it easily, remove the lower half of the chain cover and apply a mixture of grease and oil in the inner side of the chain, as Maistro said. I am using SAE 140 EP Rear Axle Oil and Castrol Premium Formula Gel.





If you like to remove the sludge, open the front sprocket cover and lower chain cover with T spanner and clean with kerosene or diesel.


If that sludge is not making any problem, let it be there. Removal of it is not essential as lubricating the chain.

@All,

If i give 20W40 grade oil of my choice rather than the company recommended one(the SVC said they used Veedol during my first service) during my second service, that shouldn't create any problems right...

Also anyone tried a rear hugger / rim tapes on GS?
If so I wold like some details on that

As per Vishnu's comments on the same couple of pages back; It doesn't matters.
I skipped replacing Oil on my first service as I had only 300+ kms on my ODO. Then after 700 kms I had it replaced with the help of a local mechanic.

What's done is done , but you definitely should not have skipped oil change at your first service .

Dirt+water+dust+sand+spent-oil makes a fine grinding paste for metals . So just lubing the chain is not enough , it should be cleaned periodically as well , at least once every 5000kms . If the front sprocket cover can be removed easily , good , else skip that . Kerosene used generously with an old toothbrush will carry to the sprockets and clean it too , as the wheel is rotated during cleaning . Wipe off and let the kerosene dry out before oiling . Mixture of 140wt oil & grease is too heavy to penetrate the chain links well . It will just give an appearance of lubrication on the surface . Lube with 90wt gear oil , brushing it in with the same old toothbrush . If using grease , use it after applying the oil . Grease will then trap the oil inside the chain rollers and keep it there longer and reduce chain noise . But grease attracts more dust & sand etc too , so keep that in mind ( next cleaning within 3000kms ) . Castrol premium gel grease is an NLGI 2-2.5 grease not meant for this kind of application . Use wheel bearing grease (pref the black EP type) if you do .
This is for ordinary rolon chains , for o-ring/x-ring types , just light cleaning with kero , and then a sparing application of a light motor-oil is sufficient .

These pictures are of my 17,300 kms old chain, chain cover and sprocket which has never been cleaned. Pictures were taken after a ride through rain.

Even a single roller is damaged or rusted. None of its links are crimped. I hope it will last some 8000 -10000 more kms.



Anyway, thanks for correcting me.

As far as I know, changing the brand of the oil makes no problem of warranty or anything else.

Thank you MACH50 and vishnukmd for responding..

I will try Pulsar180 DTSi UG3 handlebar or pulsar 135LS'
Considering your suggestions, I am not going for K&N filter as of now.