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TVS Apache RTR 180

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  • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
    Synth oil wont make the engine make new diff noices.
    What kind of noices are you hearing?
    Are they coming while driving or at the stationary bike too??
    Synth oil do make the tappet noice little more audible, i think the cut cut thing is that.
    Thanks Yes Its That Only
    i thought something different
    any idea when we can change the clutch plates?
    ride safe ride safe ride safe
    RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN RAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
    Kinetic Honda (2stroke Owner "My Uncle") 1988 - SOLD Sep. 2010
    TVS-SUZUKI SHOGUN 1996- SOLD 5.Aug.2012
    TVS APACHE RTR 180- SOLD 28.Aug.2012
    TVS STAR CITY Present- 5.Sep.2012
    TVS SCOOTY PEP+ SOLD March 2015
    Royal Enfield Classic 500 TAN
    SOLD Sep.2016

    Comment


    • Originally posted by ameyashogun View Post
      Thanks Yes Its That Only
      i thought something different
      any idea when we can change the clutch plates?
      ride safe ride safe ride safe
      RAIN RAIN RAIN RAIN RAINNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN
      You need to change the clutch plates once you experience a 'delay' in pickup or drop in mileage.(In Technical terms, clutch will slip)

      For RTRs the clutch can last well over 25k easily.

      sigpic

      Comment


      • Originally posted by chicane1879 View Post
        You need to change the clutch plates once you experience a 'delay' in pickup or drop in mileage.(In Technical terms, clutch will slip)

        For RTRs the clutch can last well over 25k easily.
        May Be need to Adjust My Clutch play
        that's it nothing else
        thanks for quick reply
        i see rear fluid is just above the min level
        but front is say no to come down a bit why it's like that?
        taking using more fluid in rear and less in front?
        any body did the carb clean after the purchase
        if yes any difference felt?
        Kinetic Honda (2stroke Owner "My Uncle") 1988 - SOLD Sep. 2010
        TVS-SUZUKI SHOGUN 1996- SOLD 5.Aug.2012
        TVS APACHE RTR 180- SOLD 28.Aug.2012
        TVS STAR CITY Present- 5.Sep.2012
        TVS SCOOTY PEP+ SOLD March 2015
        Royal Enfield Classic 500 TAN
        SOLD Sep.2016

        Comment


        • Originally posted by ameyashogun View Post
          May Be need to Adjust My Clutch play
          that's it nothing else
          thanks for quick reply
          i see rear fluid is just above the min level
          but front is say no to come down a bit why it's like that?
          taking using more fluid in rear and less in front?
          any body did the carb clean after the purchase
          if yes any difference felt?
          May be you are using the rear brakes, more often!!

          I had the carb cleaning done on my bike at 2k-3k kms as it had the hiccup problem.

          sigpic

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ameyashogun View Post
            i see rear fluid is just above the min level
            Top it up, with DOT 4.
            The Magician"

            Comment


            • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
              Top it up, with DOT 4.
              Not recommended to mix brake fluid types. might work but might also react negatively with each other or seals/o-rings.

              Comment


              • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                Not recommended to mix brake fluid types. might work but might also react negatively with each other or seals/o-rings.
                I had one question, can we empty the DOT 3 using an injection and fill it up with fresh DOT 4??
                Last edited by rennycornelius; 06-01-2010, 09:21 PM.
                The Magician"

                Comment


                • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                  I had one question, can we empty the DOT 3 using an injection and fill it up with fresh DOT 4??
                  You're talking about emptying the reservoir and then filling DOT4 right? Well, the fluid is all over the place, in the hose, calipers etc. All those should be flushed too.

                  The smallest can of brake fluid you can buy has much more than you will need for a single filling. What i did was drain out the DOT3 from the caliper end, fill DOT4, flush that out too, and then fill again. And there was still a lot of fluid left in the can. My guess is a 250ml can should be enough for both front and rear brakes. I will be flushing my front fluid, it's turned a bit brown. I will then replace the rear with DOT4 too coz i'll be changing the rear pads too. So it's gonna be a complete brake system overhaul. Hope the seals are all fine.

                  Comment


                  • i got my rtr 180 today...what to say ...is it a beauty or the beast!!!
                    first time i rode the bike....i didnt even go for a test ride!
                    the mechanic told me he has put 1.5ltrs of petrol..and the bike stopped after 3kms!...and then i called him...he came to the place and he had a can of petrol!
                    and he started acting as there is some prob with my bike and then he called someone and i heard him whispering that there is no petrol!! then he poured the petrol and wished me good luck and left!
                    never mind...i got my bike and its showtime!!!!!!!!

                    Comment


                    • ^^ Congratulations and welcome to the Apache tribe. Be careful about how you treat the bike during the running-in period. Good luck.

                      Comment


                      • Congratulations bro...keep rocking...

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                          You're talking about emptying the reservoir and then filling DOT4 right? Well, the fluid is all over the place, in the hose, calipers etc. All those should be flushed too.

                          The smallest can of brake fluid you can buy has much more than you will need for a single filling. What i did was drain out the DOT3 from the caliper end, fill DOT4, flush that out too, and then fill again. And there was still a lot of fluid left in the can. My guess is a 250ml can should be enough for both front and rear brakes. I will be flushing my front fluid, it's turned a bit brown. I will then replace the rear with DOT4 too coz i'll be changing the rear pads too. So it's gonna be a complete brake system overhaul. Hope the seals are all fine.
                          Ya i meant that.
                          i will then top it up with DOT 3, and will do the flushing process when i'll be replacing the pads, as they are in top notch condition now.

                          @thmh201:

                          Congratulations.
                          The Magician"

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                            i will then top it up with DOT 3, and will do the flushing process when i'll be replacing the pads, as they are in top notch condition now.
                            I just meant that since anyway i have to change the rear pads, i'll be replacing the fluid too. You don't have to wait for the pads change to change the brake fluid. I switched to DOT4 pretty early on, maybe ~2000km, because i was getting spongy brakes when they were hot, and some bubbling was noticeable in the reservoir window too. With the DOT4, the braking is superb and consistent even at 17k kms.

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                            • Here is a photo of my bike that i edited. Its the first time i tried my hands at editing so things might not be very good.
                              You can only ride better tomorrow if you ride safe today.

                              Comment


                              • Engine repair!!

                                hey guys!!
                                i was always asking about my engine noise.....problem has been solved upto great extent...
                                I showed my bike to service engineer.He checked whole engine parts(actual opening not inspection).Head,bore,piston,valves were ok.But real problem was in Crank Shaft.Its Bearings were gone.That was the real reason for noise,poor pick-up,lack of smoothness etc.
                                But now it has been replaced with new one(under warranty).Engine oil has been changed.Packing of engine is also done.Now engine is lot smoother and firing is deeper.
                                After this repair,first day it was not so different,but as i drive more,it became free and smoother.First time i touched 122 on my bike.There was still margin but due to traffic i have to hold.
                                Last edited by amar_r15; 06-02-2010, 10:36 AM.

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