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**Garry_Menace** · 11-24-2011, 12:59 AM

Originally posted by shiwaan View Post

ok thanks bro but i dont know what is rev range(i m not a tech guy sory ) and tell me the correct Tyre pressure for both the wheels and suggest me the engine oil

Rev Range means the RPM Range (here, he's talking about the 4.5-6.0K RPM range particularly as the range being the main vibe zone of RTR). Correct tyre pressures are:

Front: 25psi
Rear: 28psi (without pillion) or 32psi (with pillion)

I would recommend keeping it to 32psi itself as long as you're not sure that you're gonna ride without pillion almost everytime.

Abhout the Engine oil, since your bike is new, you should stick to mineral oils only. Here, the SVC guys don't allow us to use any other oil than TVS TRU4

. If you're lucky enough, then I'll recommend Shell Advanced "x"W40 grade Mineral oil or a mineral oil from Motul of the same grade as shell.

P.S. "x" in "x"W40 can be anything like 10, 15, 20.

**UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA** · 11-24-2011, 01:05 AM

Originally posted by sambit View Post

Dude,you changed your tires to 120 specs and the milage dropped!!!!
it has been 4 months,since I changed my tires to IRC 120/70,and hve got fuel efficiency UP by almost 3 kmpl....(previously 40kmpl,now 43),though the performance has dropped a little....
Its not the tire man....some other thing is affecting your milage....

bro its nt the tire for the great milegae drop but yes it dropped by almost 4-5 kmpl...checked many times. And plzz be clear 120/70 is a little slimmer than a 120/80 and yes the zapper c itself is kinda broad tyre...i took it as i had no other option for the rainy season but now after hard 5000 kms use im changing the rear to a 100/90-17 michellin pilot sporty...

Other guys i think tht either people are not in a mood to help or this thread is simply becoming inactive. Sorry but thts my take on this.

**New guy** · 11-24-2011, 01:33 AM

Originally posted by UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA View Post

bro its nt the tire for the great milegae drop but yes it dropped by almost 4-5 kmpl...checked many times. And plzz be clear 120/70 is a little slimmer than a 120/80 and yes the zapper c itself is kinda broad tyre...i took it as i had no other option for the rainy season but now after hard 5000 kms use im changing the rear to a 100/90-17 michellin pilot sporty...

Other guys i think tht either people are not in a mood to help or this thread is simply becoming inactive. Sorry but thts my take on this.

I guess if you rev till 7 k then FE of 30-35 KPL is ok. i get 34-37 kpl under hard revving. i am also running on 120 section zapper at rear so i guess it would be about the same for you too. and keeping it under 5k rpm is too difficult.!

@ lijok- any updates on stock jet performance?

**lijok** · 11-24-2011, 04:01 AM

@new guy... yesterday night I again experienced a significant power less... Given for service today... asked my mech to check the valve timings and clearances - so left it over night. Tomorrow I'll go pick it up and then give an update...

**UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA** · 11-24-2011, 08:16 AM

Originally posted by New guy View Post

I guess if you rev till 7 k then FE of 30-35 KPL is ok. i get 34-37 kpl under hard revving. i am also running on 120 section zapper at rear so i guess it would be about the same for you too. and keeping it under 5k rpm is too difficult.!

@ lijok- any updates on stock jet performance?

did u read 30-35? I wrote 22-25 on medium hard ripping. Anyways will be giving my bike a 7 days rest from tomorrow as im sending the engine head to joel and will get the same setup as urs. And yes plzz can u tell me what are the exhact performance gains? Im askin because the review posted by u was when u started using the kit now maybe something more exciting came up..!

**nick1979** · 11-24-2011, 10:21 AM

Originally posted by UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA View Post

no i didnt do any mods to the swingarm, everything is stock. The 120/80-17 fits in the stock one but theres a very little i.e less than a finger's space with the chain cover.
anyways i wont recommend u to get 120/80 as it will rob of performance a nd mileage which is very much noticable. If ur not a performance freak and have more affinity towardss the grip then u shld go for it.

ND OTHER GUYS CAN SOMEONE PLZ TELL ME ABT MY MILEAGE PROBLEM

hey buddy. how much mileage drop did u notice, and i think 100 mm won't look good on A180, even stock tyre look thin when watch from behind.

**New guy** · 11-24-2011, 01:52 PM

Originally posted by lijok View Post

@new guy... yesterday night I again experienced a significant power less... Given for service today... asked my mech to check the valve timings and clearances - so left it over night. Tomorrow I'll go pick it up and then give an update...

May be you should try up-jetting because I was facing jerking above 9k rpm and Joel suggested to drill a RTR jet with 1.3mm drill and try that.
My mech screwed it up royally so that didnt work. Now in process of getting the bigger carb from joel.

Originally posted by UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA View Post

did u read 30-35? I wrote 22-25 on medium hard ripping. Anyways will be giving my bike a 7 days rest from tomorrow as im sending the engine head to joel and will get the same setup as urs. And yes plzz can u tell me what are the exhact performance gains? Im askin because the review posted by u was when u started using the kit now maybe something more exciting came up..!

Yeah, my bad. Wont be able to tell you exact gains but as I said even with a punctured tyre and mis aligned brakes it was cruising at 115-120 kph easily with a heavy pillion.
Haven't been able to go out on a ride since but upwards of 5 k rpm it gets scarily fast. The way the revs builds up its really difficult to keep it in the sane zone. Average speeds are always higher than what they used to be and its all unintentional since i normally prefer to ride under limits in city. But What I am trying to convey is that the way the speeds build up is too quick to comprehend even after having ridden the stock RTR for quite some time. Hope this answers some of your questions.
But rest assured you will have fun with the set up!

**New guy** · 11-24-2011, 01:55 PM

got the exhaust coated with Anti rust paint

**sid137** · 11-24-2011, 07:17 PM

Originally posted by ojakuls View Post

I previously posted that I have serviced my bike myself.
Its almost a month & 10 days more.
My bike has drastically changed.

Currently I am using 20W-50 Castrol semi-synthetic. NGK spark-plug.
The oil has problem of morning start or when cold, like now-a-days, as it is a thick oil. But on long rides or touring in hot weather it is seriously a good oil. It doesn't let engine to heat up too much.
As its a winter time I will be changing my oil in 10 days from 20W-50 to 10W-40 or 15W-50 or 10W-50(if i get it).

What would you prefer guys??
And tell me if you are satisfied with the info.

hey mate, by servicing do u mean the regular oil and filter change, chain lubing etc or some other work that u did?
it would be really nice if u could elaborate a bit more on it!

and regarding engine oil, i am myself using motul 15W50 semi synthetic oil.
it has made the engine smoother, doesn't heat up quickly too!
but it has robbed the engine of its revvability.engine feels lazy now

i would be soon changing to a 10W40 grade semi synth oil soon!

**lijok** · 11-24-2011, 07:38 PM

I had forgot to tighten the choke cable nut, Mech said that's why the power lose. Hope he is right

**nick1979** · 11-24-2011, 07:46 PM

choke

Hi frns, help needed. my bike is 1500 kms old. today i notice that my choke is not working, when the engine are running on neutral everytime i engage the choke engine dies n also choke doesn't work when cold start...

**Rtrlover83** · 11-24-2011, 07:47 PM

Need help guy's.
Today when i gave slight throttle for starting the bike, a 'Tick" sound was heard from the throttle grip area, and the throttle grip has become very loose. It has that roll back action, but it's loose and the engine is not responding to the inputs as well. What could have gone kaput guy's?
Waiting for any advice.

**nick1979** · 11-24-2011, 08:07 PM

Hi frns help needed. 1500 kms on odo, (1) choke doesn't work when cold start, then latter during neutral when engine is running, engine dies when i engage the choke. (2) i feel there's some lag during all the 5 gear. (3) when i try to tune idle to 3000 rpm needle just don't go up i hv to twist the throttle to move the needle to go to 3000 rpm. (4) tune the carb several times still throttle needle is not stable and last what's the optimal tunning ? is it 2.25 or 3 full revolution from fully closed...... pls tell me what is the problem, ...this world be great help..

**shiwaan** · 11-24-2011, 08:57 PM

Originally posted by Garry_Menace View Post

Rev Range means the RPM Range (here, he's talking about the 4.5-6.0K RPM range particularly as the range being the main vibe zone of RTR). Correct tyre pressures are:

Front: 25psi
Rear: 28psi (without pillion) or 32psi (with pillion)

I would recommend keeping it to 32psi itself as long as you're not sure that you're gonna ride without pillion almost everytime.

Abhout the Engine oil, since your bike is new, you should stick to mineral oils only. Here, the SVC guys don't allow us to use any other oil than TVS TRU4

. If you're lucky enough, then I'll recommend Shell Advanced "x"W40 grade Mineral oil or a mineral oil from Motul of the same grade as shell.

P.S. "x" in "x"W40 can be anything like 10, 15, 20.

thanks man i will help me alot i will update after changing doing what u guys advised and one more question does installing big bore kit will drop in mileage?? because m also interested in big bore kit tell me the demerits if any thanks in advance

**Drifty** · 11-24-2011, 09:33 PM

Originally posted by nick1979 View Post

Hi frns help needed. 1500 kms on odo, (1) choke doesn't work when cold start, then latter during neutral when engine is running, engine dies when i engage the choke. (2) i feel there's some lag during all the 5 gear. (3) when i try to tune idle to 3000 rpm needle just don't go up i hv to twist the throttle to move the needle to go to 3000 rpm. (4) tune the carb several times still throttle needle is not stable and last what's the optimal tunning ? is it 2.25 or 3 full revolution from fully closed...... pls tell me what is the problem, ...this world be great help..

The choke cable might not be returning back to its position,it may be rusted.Get it checked and its 3/3.5 full turns from the 'dead end'.Set the idle rpm to 1.3/1.4k rpm when the engine is hot.

Originally posted by lijok View Post

I had forgot to tighten the choke cable nut, Mech said that's why the power lose. Hope he is right

Yeah,it will be leaning out the mixture,your mech is right ;-).And what about the valve clearance,did you adjust them?

Originally posted by Rtrlover83 View Post

Today when i gave slight throttle for starting the bike, a 'Tick" sound was heard from the throttle grip area, and the throttle grip has become very loose. It has that roll back action, but it's loose and the engine is not responding

Not to worry about,check whether the end of the throttle cable(near the throttle grip side) is perfectly fit into the throttle spindle.
@Sid137:Haha,the sluggishness you noticed it now,eh?:-P Mine 400km used Motul W50 oil is been put to good use as a chain lube now!;-)

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