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TVS Apache RTR 180
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@ deception- no not using any premimum petrol nor the engine is overheating...what are the symptomsn of overheating anyway???? i think if the RPM needle gets stuck at 2 K rpm and then comes down slowly to the idling speed then its overheating right.no that doesn not happen...i just got the bike serviced and cleaned so air filter,fuel pipe evrything will be clean....or is the mech lying??
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Originally posted by pranav_salieri View Post@ deception- no not using any premimum petrol nor the engine is overheating...what are the symptomsn of overheating anyway???? i think if the RPM needle gets stuck at 2 K rpm and then comes down slowly to the idling speed then its overheating right.no that doesn not happen...i just got the bike serviced and cleaned so air filter,fuel pipe evrything will be clean....or is the mech lying??
Symptoms of overheating include but are not limited to significant loss of throttle response,jittery engine,Tendency to switch off and engine noise.
I had a case with my CBZX where a broken fuel line clogged with dirt was causing it to drink fuel like a P220 and perform like a shine.
Yeah and sorry my previous post was of no help.
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@deception
Why will the premium petrol screw up?.. I used only premium for like first 2k kms.. everything was just fine.. AFAIK, it wont screw up, it will just leave lesser residue in the filter.
@pranav
Apache's normal mileage range is 35-40(under normal riding) , so if ur getting around 38 its decent only!
I get 30-32.. i rip almost all the time.. so.. and under sane riding i get ~36
and i have a rear 120/80 tyre so it will reduce it by a small margin..
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Originally posted by rak2410 View Post@deception
Why will the premium petrol screw up?.. I used only premium for like first 2k kms.. everything was just fine.. AFAIK, it wont screw up, it will just leave lesser residue in the filter.
@pranav
Apache's normal mileage range is 35-40(under normal riding) , so if ur getting around 38 its decent only!
I get 30-32.. i rip almost all the time.. so.. and under sane riding i get ~36
and i have a rear 120/80 tyre so it will reduce it by a small margin..
Ok i was only saying what my mech engineering friends and many other riders advised me.I was told that feeding a higher octane fuel Than the engine's compression ratio can handle will lead to engine knocking,fouling and comparatively low efficiency since the engine cannot fully use all the fuel given to it on the intake stroke.Due to the inability of the fuel to fully ignite on lower compression,Redox reactions occur which lead to the short engine life and over the top emissions of NOx.
Hell i'm no mech engineer ,but i come from a physics background,and his logic sounded pretty sensible to me.
But if you're going strong with your current fuel,thanks man.You taught me something new today,which is exactly why i joined Xbhp.
BTW whats the MON(Motor octane number of your fuel)
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Originally posted by Krish1417 View PostHi guys,i hear some sound like metal from the front part (not from the engine) when i accelerate the bike a little hard.What may be the issue?Thanks for the reply nickOriginally posted by nick1979 View PostCheck ur con set or front fork better go to svc,
I am facing difficulty while turning the handle like it feels tight and heavy.
Last edited by Krish1417; 12-03-2011, 07:17 PM.Apache RTR 180 2011 | Honda Activa 2010 | CBZ Xtreme 2010 (1 month) |Apache 160 FI 2009-2010
Bajaj Kristal 2007-2011
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bro why do you have to be sorry...i am getting frustrated day by day..no mech is able get rid of my problems no SVC people also. and jitterry engine meaning jerky engine right as though petrol is going to get over right??? no bro that does not happen...and engine noise you mean tappet noise right they are okay but its sure more than FZ and pulsar and the other problems you have mentioned do not occur unless there is very low fuel or or when the bike is just about to hit reserveOriginally posted by deception View PostSymptoms of overheating include but are not limited to significant loss of throttle response,jittery engine,Tendency to switch off and engine noise.
I had a case with my CBZX where a broken fuel line clogged with dirt was causing it to drink fuel like a P220 and perform like a shine.
Yeah and sorry my previous post was of no help.
..ill ask the svc guy about the fuel line.
RAK-no bro 38 is unaccptable..m frinds who own 220's get 38 kmpl under some good ripping and and the R15 guys are getting a handsome 42 kmpl....with rpping
btw chicane and some other guys get 42-43..
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Originally posted by pranav_salieri View Postguys i need your help with this...today when my bike hit reserve i filled exactly half a litere of petrol to check mileage and reset the trip meter to zero. after 14.3kms it felt as though my bike is running out of fuel and i should hit reserve and the engine got switched off... then i waited for sometime and then started the bike again and it started without switching it to reserve...then it went upto 21.4 kms but the egnine used to get switched off here and there but once i thumb the starter it used to start again...after 21.3 kms the fuel bar starting blinking so i switched to reserve..now whats the actual mileage of my bike 14.3kms for half a litrer which means 26 kmpl
or 21.3kms for half a litere which means ~ 41 kmpl???? i know that even when the fuel cock is switched to "OFF" the bike can go about 1 km before the engine gets switched off....help me out guys getting confused..i cannot live with mileage figures like 28-38...i at least want 40...also i never ripped the bike, never crossed 80 and shifting at 4 k RPM and tyre pressure was also corect and fuel i filled in shell.
hey man the on/off/reserve switch is not a perfect measuring device!
there are times when my bike starts jerking, meaning it goes on reserve and when i turn the knob back to on, it goes for like 5-6 kms. in ur case it went from 14 to 21!
1/2 a litre is hardly any amount to judge ur bike's mileage.
thats y it is said that u should fill 5 litres atleast and then check the average!
this should be done atleast 3-4 times and the mean value of them should be ur approx mileage!
and dont trust the digital fuel gauge man, it works great when the tanks full, other times it just kinda working!
p.s ur fuel bar started blinking means its allready on reserve! or maybe ur display is too temparamental
sigpic"I dream. Sometimes I think that's the only right thing to do."
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^ +1
@pranav_salieri
i suggest you fill up the tank up to a certain point near the nozzle, reset meter and ride for 200+kms and then refill up to that mark again...
Dude, if somebody knew it obviously they would replied...Originally posted by AshMj View Post@ TVS Apache RTR 180
is there nobody who can answer my question???
i want apache oem horns.....from where i can get it and what is the price??
Best thing is going to your nearest ASC and find out...Apache 180
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@deception
One can safely use BP Speed, IOC Xtra Premium. Their octane ratings are below 95, well suiting the compression ratio of RTR 180's engine which is 9.5:1 (max supported octane rating is 95 as you've mentioned).
The one we should NOT use is BP Speed 97. It is for the biggies, yeah the liter classes
Last edited by Rtrlover83; 12-03-2011, 11:15 PM.The Apache is ever willing to red line each cog, but the Rider ain't. Enjoy RTR, Safely. Period.
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Originally posted by UTKARSH STUNTY SHARMA View Postsome body plzz tell me abt which tyre plzz.....!!. Will the r15 tyre make my rtr feel undergeared.??
I think the pulsar 180 tyre (120/80) is the best fit.Well only rode it for a couple of kms(12) but the differences are hardly noticeable except for better braking.I personally feel that the 120/80 zapper is the ideal choice without compromising mileage or pickup
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D.I.Y on Brake pad cleaning/replacing....
Tools needed:Size 12 ring spanner,allen key 5mm,a flat head screw driver,sand paper,a clean cloth(if you wish to clean the calliper assembly)
CAUTION: Do not press the brake lever when the pads are removed!
TIP:Rub the sand paper on the brake pads in only one direction for more efficiency.
A full fledged DIY on valve clearance setting,carb cleaning,brake bleeding will be coming soon!
Last edited by Drifty; 12-04-2011, 05:30 PM.
D.I.Y-Valve clearance setting RTR180
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake fluid replacing/brake bleeding
D.I.Y-RTR180 brake pad replacing/cleaning
Exploded view of Mikuni BS-29 carb
A motorcycle functions entirely in accordance with the laws of reason, and a study of the art of motorcycle maintenance is really a miniature study of the art of rationality itself.
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