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**veryhiphop** · 02-24-2013, 06:42 PM

Originally posted by antan_shank View Post

Just few pics of my White Pearl.....
[ATTACH=CONFIG]94622[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]94623[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]94624[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]94625[/ATTACH]

Originally posted by 111diablo111 View Post

guys I changed battery of my bike after 2.5yrs n got 7amp Excide MF battery..it worked fine for first 3-4mnths & then it got drained so I recharged it but with in a month or two,it drained again today & bike is not starting again..this has to be the problem with battery or something else because of which battery is getting drained frequently??

nicely maintained...

Originally posted by Anoop K Thomas View Post

Hi Psr/Divya Sharan

My name is Anoop and i am following this thread for the last one year. I am ownimg Karizma ZMR (hero honda version) which completed 17000KM within 20 months. Recently I have changed the spark plug, airfilter (@ 14000 km) and use to change the oil every 2000Km. (Mileage about 42-45)
Everything was fine until my roommate brought the same Karizma ZMR (hero version) just 3 weeks back. I felt my roommate's bike is very smooth from the day he bought but the same is missing in my bike. :-(
Is the new hero ZMR bike is better tuned? I would like to have the same smoothness in my bike as well..
Can you please suggest any thoughts, so that I can guide the mechanic in hero showroom to do the same.....

I guess the HM has make some improvement in the bike in 2011 and after models...3ven i feel that new models of zmr have a more smoothness in engine as compared to earlier models..

**veryhiphop** · 02-24-2013, 06:47 PM

Head spring broken in my ZMR...

**psr** · 02-24-2013, 07:40 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Hi PSR sir and Ravi.. i checked it out just now.. I noticed that at Engine Idle.. the voltage across the battery was just 12.86V.. when I turned on the headlight.. it reduced to 11.56 to 11.96V.. when engine at 3000RPM.. it was somewhere around 13.60V..

What should I do now?? Please suggest.. during night.. I am not able to keep the light turned on for more than 15mins.. maybe even less than that.. This is worrying me now

and its just 2 months left for my Bhutan Trip..

There is a connector from the RR unit on TOP of the STARTER RELAY...pinch the lock on connector to open and then pull it away...now check if there is corrosion on the pins of the Starter relay top,and at the bottom side of the connector.....if you see it, then this is the reason for the problem...
If there is no corrosion on either the connector or pins, then while bike is idling remove the NEGATIVE TERMINAL from the battery, and check the Voltage ..
between the Engine body and the POSITIVE of the battery....it should read 14 Volts while engine is in idle RPM of 1,400 RPM...If not ,check RR connector...if it is oK then either RR or Stator plate is defective....if the voltage recovers on disconnecting the battery, then battery is defective.......Most probably it will be the battery...

**psr** · 02-24-2013, 07:43 PM

Originally posted by veryhiphop View Post

Head spring broken in my ZMR...

This is the Valve spring isn't it ? was this the problem all along...Oh My God...How much the Quality has come down....
Shocking...

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 07:45 PM

Originally posted by worrisomebear View Post

Check :

1. Loose Terminals
2. Rectifier alongiside the battery ( chances are its kaput and not aiding in charging the battery)
3. Battery Kaput itself and needs replacement, how many years have u used this battery?
4. Are you running HID? if yes higher voltage battery will help

Loose Terminals.. The Terminals are full tight

Rectifier alongside the battery? do you mean the relay with the fuse?? I got it changed recently thinking that could be the issue... but it didn't help either..
Battery Kaput.. I would say yes if it was only with one battery

But I changed the battery.. that battery dried out completely.. now it doesn't even work if I turn the headlight on for a minute..
I am not running HID.. used to.. but never had the lights turned on

Higher Voltage Battery I have tried to get.. but the problem is with the battery cage..

its too small that it doesn't allow us to house any bigger battery

Any suggestions regarding this then?

**ravi@17bhp** · 02-24-2013, 07:54 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

This is the Valve spring isn't it ? was this the problem all along...Oh My God...How much the Quality has come down....
Shocking...

Its really strange how could that break. :O

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 07:56 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

There is a connector from the RR unit on TOP of the STARTER RELAY...pinch the lock on connector to open and then pull it away...now check if there is corrosion on the pins of the Starter relay top,and at the bottom side of the connector.....if you see it, then this is the reason for the problem...
If there is no corrosion on either the connector or pins, then while bike is idling remove the NEGATIVE TERMINAL from the battery, and check the Voltage ..
between the Engine body and the POSITIVE of the battery....it should read 14 Volts while engine is in idle RPM of 1,400 RPM...If not ,check RR connector...if it is oK then either RR or Stator plate is defective....if the voltage recovers on disconnecting the battery, then battery is defective.......Most probably it will be the battery...

Sir,

I changed my battery.. even with that battery same thing happened.. but it dried out completely as I was using HID last year.. as the Stock Battery was decent compared to the one I changed to.. I shifted back to it.. atleast this battery got my bike to start and the horns to work.. so I am taking a guess its not the battery.. but yes.. I will check out your suggestions.. is it easy to pull out the rectifier wire??? and any idea how much the Regulator Rectifier will cost?? or can I get a better RR for the ZMR..??

**psr** · 02-24-2013, 09:27 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Sir,

I changed my battery.. even with that battery same thing happened.. but it dried out completely as I was using HID last year.. as the Stock Battery was decent compared to the one I changed to.. I shifted back to it.. atleast this battery got my bike to start and the horns to work.. so I am taking a guess its not the battery.. but yes.. I will check out your suggestions.. is it easy to pull out the rectifier wire??? and any idea how much the Regulator Rectifier will cost?? or can I get a better RR for the ZMR..??

One of the problem with lead acid is that with charging the water evaporates and gets reduced in level...leading to a dry and dead battery...no matter ,adding water or charging will recover a 12 V battery if it's terminal voltage goes below 10 volts....
here is a picture of the RR used in 2011 ZMA...ZMR also uses similar one, and costs between 1,800 to 2,000/-.....
The three Yellow wires are the 3 phase A.C. Voltage from stator into the RR unit...The Red wire is the RR output which will go to the battery...
It is possible to fit a 9AH Amaron with a little engineering...one of the ZMR owner had done it and had posted about it in this thread...

I think it is DHIRAJ with a RED ZMR who had done it...

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 09:48 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

One of the problem with lead acid is that with charging the water evaporates and gets reduced in level...leading to a dry and dead battery...no matter ,adding water or cgarging will recover a 12 V battery if it's terminal voltage goes below 10 volts....
here is a picture of the RR used in 2011 ZMA...ZMR also uses similar one, and costs between 1,800 to 2,000/-.....
The three Yellow wires are the 3 phase A.C. Voltage from stator into the RR unit...The Red wire is the RR output which will go to the battery...
It is possible to fit a 9AH Amaron with a little engineering...one of the ZMR owner had done it and had posted about it in this thread...

I think it is DHIRAJ with a RED ZMR who had done it...

Thank you for the pictorial description.. Yes sir.. you are right.. i read about that too.. however the problem is.. i need to find a proper mechanic who can install this setup.. i mean the 9AH battery installation.. an expert I would say.. If I had been in Chennai.. I know the people who can do it and the lack of communication plays another vital role..

As I am no where near good in Hindi.. I am not able to communicate.. is it possible for a DIY in this case?? any idea on what might need to be changed?? Sorry to bug you guys a lot..

**psr** · 02-24-2013, 09:54 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Thank you for the pictorial description.. Yes sir.. you are right.. i read about that too.. however the problem is.. i need to find a proper mechanic who can install this setup.. i mean the 9AH battery installation.. an expert I would say.. If I had been in Chennai.. I know the people who can do it and the lack of communication plays another vital role..

As I am no where near good in Hindi.. I am not able to communicate.. is it possible for a DIY in this case?? any idea on what might need to be changed?? Sorry to bug you guys a lot..

Yes it is a DIY,...provided you have the knowledge on it, and can improvise when you face problem...Obviously the old ZMA battery cage had to be fitted in place of the small cage for the Exide 6 amps battery...only then you will be able to do the change over to 9 AH...

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 09:57 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Yes it is a DIY,...provided you have the knowledge on it, and can improvise when you face problem...Obviously the old ZMA battery cage had to be fitted in place of the small cage for the Exide 6 amps battery...only then you will be able to do the change over to 9 AH...

Well sir.. the other problem is.. the rear disc brake oil holder.. its fitted with a bolt to the ZMR battery cage.. thats what is bothering me.. I haven't thought of an alternate way to fix it.. but I gotta start with it.. Thanks for the information.. I hope I don't need to get anything welding or cut off any metal..

**psr** · 02-24-2013, 10:10 PM

Originally posted by rreneav1987 View Post

Well sir.. the other problem is.. the rear disc brake oil holder.. its fitted with a bolt to the ZMR battery cage.. thats what is bothering me.. I haven't thought of an alternate way to fix it.. but I gotta start with it.. Thanks for the information.. I hope I don't need to get anything welding or cut off any metal..

.the problem will be the small mounting bracket on the tubular frame which need to be cut off WITHOUT damaging the frame....

Here is the work done on a 2011 ZMA

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 10:21 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

.the problem will be the small mounting bracket on the tubular frame which need to be cut off WITHOUT damaging the frame....

Here is the work done on a 2011 ZMA

this is what scares me

Thanks for the info sir.. Now I will look out for some good mechanic who can help me out with this.. but first gotta find out which is at fault.. You have been so helpful..

**Divya Sharan** · 02-24-2013, 10:58 PM

@PSR sir, ZMR has a MF battery. Then why are we discussing distilled water and stuff? Or did I miss something?

@rreneav - fitting a 9AH is cumbersome, I tried the same but failed, later got to know that Dhiraj bhai has done it somehow, but had to rearrange stuff to fit in the battery.

**rreneav1987** · 02-24-2013, 11:08 PM

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

@PSR sir, ZMR has a MF battery. Then why are we discussing distilled water and stuff? Or did I miss something?

@rreneav - fitting a 9AH is cumbersome, I tried the same but failed, later got to know that Dhiraj bhai has done it somehow, but had to rearrange stuff to fit in the battery.

yes.. i understand that mate.. did you try to Do It Yourself or had experts help you out?? I will be checking on it later when I get time before my tour.. Maybe I might get some idea.. you know.. people have different creative minds...

I will think of something to fit the bigger cage... in case i succeed.. I will let you all know.. of course.. its gotta be simple too.. only then..

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