Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

1) There are numerous symptoms and numerous solutions.
2) One has to isolate and specify the problem before a solution can be concluded upon.
3) The slide issue is a well known and documented one, and hence getting stuck at say 80Kph and not going above is an indicator of that.

Your problem is different and could be worn clutch plates among other reasons. Please go through this thread, read as much as you can and try and identify what is happening with your bike.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Slide stuck could be one of the many reasons, to confirm this you have to open slide and clean it if there are deposits. Its an easy job to perform a try.

Do you have new model zma-r? If yes then problem you mentioned is common with new model zma-r.

To resolve this you can try simple things in series like filter cleaning, spark plug gap check & clean, clutch lever free play, check rear brakes for extra tighness, lubricate acc cable, carb slide clean, afr tuning to 3.5 turns anticlockwise after fully closed screw clockwise till it stops gently.

How much you ride? Check the bike after riding atleast 5-10 kms. Engine do not get properly warmed up before 5-10 kms and you get the false feeling.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

90k kms update:
Running on Rimula R4 from last 10k kms. Pretty decent oil I would say. I don't feel it gives a level of smoothness on high speeds which Advance ultra or 300v offers, but that was never expected. Its not heavy on pocket and runs well for 2000kms.

All the Performance parts like the CDI, Camshaft, Carburator and FFE are still intact. The simota filter has shown signs of aging after using it for around 30k kms. I will change it soon and I might go back to stock filter, not sure though.
I cannot comment on the current performance or top speed as I dont ride hard anymore. Long rides are always with wife who doesnt let me cross 100kmph and office is within city limits.

Breaking is okay. Not much bite. I am not using Karizma OEM pads and I have got used to the progressive breaking.

Running on Sirac Street as front and Ralco blaster as rear tyre. I am happy with the performance of both. The ralco blaster doesnt have much grip as the PSDs, but it costs almost half of the cost of PSD as well. Both of the tyres still have life left, will go for another 10k kms for sure.

Most of the rear body panels are broken and makes awful sound. I just dont bother about it anymore as it is like that from last 2 years.

I get a average of 28-30 in heavy traffic, around 30-31 in relatively less traffic and around 32-33 in long rides. All the long rides are with pillion.

Issues:

1. There are 2 wires under the ignition which was cut and I fixed it. It again got cut on midnight once while coming back from a night show with wife. I made it direct and fixed it with help of a local mechanic the next day. Now it is fine after adding some wire and generous amount of insulating tape.
2. I feel the rear shocks has become very soft and it gets floored with pillion if I don't handle a speed breaker or pot hole carefully.
3. The front shocks also have the same issue. Along with that I had to change the oil seals thrice in last one year.
4. When I break little hard, I get some sound like "Tuk" from the front. Last time I gave my zeema for servicing in Castrol power zone, I asked the mechanic to fix it. But he made it even worse. Now the handle doesn't move freely and it gets stuck in between a bit . It feels scary to ride above 80 kmph as I cant maneuver freely. I have to get it fixed asap.

Its frustrating to get Zeema serviced in Hero svc and the local mechanics doesn't do a good job either. As I have shifted to BTM, It is difficult to go to Mathikere to my regular mechanic Anthony.

A couple stays in my apartment who are from Bangalore biker group and it feels good to see them and their friends with proper riding gears all the time.

Any pointers or help on the issues will be highly appreciated!!!
It's always like I tell the mechanic what to fix and they fix it, They dont care to diagnose and check what is wrong
@phanikar: Your ZMA review was really nice, Honest opinions from a long term User

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

1.Change them or adjust it to hardest . It costs i guess 1200 for a piece. GRS ones cost 2.2K a piece
2. Oil seal leakage means fork tube is scratched. Get new tube and seals.
3. He tightened coneset to compensate for sound, but in reality coneset is busted. Get that replaced too.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=22265]SriramEfunds[/MENTION] : Yes Sir.. I tried sourcing the bleeding tube (the transparent one) from a couple of two wheeler spares outlet. But couldn't find one. Where can I get one ? Is GP road the only option ?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=83756]VR.[/MENTION] There isn't any particular tube that I heard of. Ask for petrol tube or even refer Suzuki max100 petrol tube type.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Thank you Sir. Heading to GP road now..

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Pardon me if I got it wrong. Are you referring to the brake lines? The tube that runs from the brake lever to the disc assy?
One doesn't *need* a transparent tube for bleeding the lines. The normal black tube is good enough. 3-4 bleeds are usually what get the job done in most cases.
This tube is readily available *over the counter* at Hero and Honda outlets (both have same fitment).

Ignore if you meant something else.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

I didn't mean the tube that runs from the brake lever to calliper. I meant the tube that should be connected to the bleeder nut.

I was referring to the DIY link, (courtesy : xBhp member Drifty ) for brake bleeding. I saw a transparent tube fitted to the bleeder nut. Was hunting for the same in the shops.



Will the black tube that you mentioned fit into the bleeder nut?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Go to any hardware/automotive shop , ask for fuel pipe of splendor. Most of the time they hang it above counter . If they are unable to get you , ask for a 3-4mm tube of 3 ft.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Ah got you! Nope, as Rohit/Sriram sir have mentioned, just get a Splendor petrol pipe. Or a 3mm tube at a hardware shop.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hello everyone.

I am new here with some issues regarding my karizma-R.
Please help me sorting out.

Issues are as follows.

1. Bike not gaining 70+ speed easily.

2. In 3rd gear some kind of noise is coming from the engine.

3. Also there is a lot of vibration at 40+ speed.

Please help.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=84140]Saleh Talha[/MENTION]

Sure you'll get help, however we are missing some crucial details such as bike age, odo done, known issues, bike condition, last serviced, oil used, etc.

Post the details so it helps to get an overview and try suggestions.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Thanks for the valuable response.

Bike's age is 7.5 yrs.

Odo is 58k+ kms.

Bike condition is 70%

Last service 2 weeks before.

Oil used is veedol 10w40 synthetic.

Thanks again.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=41586]Divya Sharan[/MENTION], [MENTION=22265]SriramEfunds[/MENTION] sir, [MENTION=52772]AK3D[/MENTION] : Thanks a lot for all your support and valuable inputs on this issue.

Finally got my disc brake issue resolved .

[1] Sourced all tools that was needed for getting the brake bleeding done.

[2] I got the setup ready and did a soft bleed by bleeding the existing oil a little (didn't bleed it completely).

[3] Even after that I still had the soft feel, but it comparatively better than the previous feel.

[4] I then had to bleed the complete system and tried opening the brake fluid reservoir.

[5] Thats when the unexpected happened. The screws on the reservoir were so tight and in my attempt to unscrew them I ended up damaging the threads.



[6] After trying for a few attempts, I gave up and didn't want to screw them setup badly.

[7] Took it to a nearby mechanic and told him the full history. He was initially surprised over the way the threads were damaged, but later he promised me to get the brake system back to normal.

[8] Thankfully, he agreed that the brake was soft and it seemed more of a "drum brake" . Gave him the DOT4 fluid that I had got and asked him to do a complete overhaul of the brake system, including cleaning, brake fluid replacement etc.



[9] After close to 3 hours , went for taking the bike delivery and was extremely happy about how my ZMA's performed. Wonderfull!! Getting to feel it after a long time.

[10] When asked about what the problem was, he said that the calliper assembly had a lot of dirt and dust clogged, which had restricted the piston movement and he also added that the system had air blocks and brake fluid went bad. He has also replaced the old one with new DOT 4 fluid.



[11] He had remove everything right from the master cylinder to calliper assembly and has cleaned it inside out. Charged me 450/-, as he had great difficulties in opening the brake fluid reservoir. .

[12] Now, the bike seems to stop in a single pump

[13] Also, he added that the uneven rubbing pattern in disc rotor will be alright in sometime as the pads will start brushing on the full rotor surface in sometime. I hope that the bite will even more be great once the pads establish complete contact with the rotor.