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**sibun** · 05-17-2016, 09:39 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post

Thanks for the info Divya. Didn't knew that.

Thanks Sibun, adding 2t oil method I read in PSR sir very old post to release slide. I have almost 5 litres of petrol in tank right now, can I use 5ml of 2t oil? Any adverse effect of 2t oil in carb?

If you can throw some light on why my carb slide getting stuck frequently? Not seen in others zma which I know.

Regarding rpm vs speedo error, I will fit my stock front tire for few days and observe.

No adverse effects of 2T oil. Infact 2T oil has PIB which homogenises petrol molecules in the mist. Just ensure the 2T oil is JASO FC compliant. Easy is get a pouch of servo 2T from Indian oil bunk. Its jaso fc.

Use 1ml per litre. Do not exceed the dosage.

The slide in carb is like bore piston. As the slide moves it wears down. So after a few wear in dia it slowly gets a loose fit. And its a cv carb. So with engine suction the slide gets suck towards engine side. Since it has worn down and has little play so it gets slightly bent towards engine side. Since it is not perfectly parallel to throttle body so it gets stuck. Adding 2t will lube the lower portionof throttle body.

More permanent solution is changing the slide. But usually 2t solves the problem.

**ankit.traveller** · 05-17-2016, 09:45 AM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by sibun View Post

No adverse effects of 2T oil. Infact 2T oil has PIB which homogenises petrol molecules in the mist. Just ensure the 2T oil is JASO FC compliant. Easy is get a pouch of servo 2T from Indian oil bunk. Its jaso fc.

Use 1ml per litre. Do not exceed the dosage.

The slide in carb is like bore piston. As the slide moves it wears down. So after a few wear in dia it slowly gets a loose fit. And its a cv carb. So with engine suction the slide gets suck towards engine side. Since it has worn down and has little play so it gets slightly bent towards engine side. Since it is not perfectly parallel to throttle body so it gets stuck. Adding 2t will lube the lower portionof throttle body.

More permanent solution is changing the slide. But usually 2t solves the problem.

Thanks a lot Sibun for the detailed info. During long tours do u recommend to add 2t oil in petrol by default? Adding System-G will do the same?

**VR.** · 05-17-2016, 03:19 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by ajextreme View Post

Karizma's braking nature is very progressive. Coming from the Rtr family I felt that the front disc brakes on Karizma was not up to my liking. I could hard brake anytime and the response on Rtr was very spot on. But I have grown over the nature of Karizma's abilities overall. I have changed my riding style to suit the bike.
To have more effective braking I suggest keep tapping the front brakes and not just hold on to the brake lever at one go. Additionally also use the engine braking if necessary. The chassis of the bike is so strong that it moves like an arrow and stable at all speeds. Since all the parts are new I would suggest to run it for few more days and help the system mate correctly together. Get the brakes bleeded again to remove any air bubbles. Once done, resort to tapping method of braking for few days and I am sure you would get the feel you are looking for.
If you are in Bangalore maybe I could helped you a little. Maybe the chennai xbhpians can help if problem still persists.

I usually keep holding my brakes at one go for braking, but since this issue started I am surviving on brake pumping and engine braking for a decent deceleration.

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

While Chennai xBhpians can point you to good mechanics, I would suggest you overhaul/replace the master cylinder assembly. RTR's master cylinder is a direct replacement if you're willing to change it altogether.
P.P.S - Never pump brakes. That's a disaster waiting to happen.

By master cylinder assembly do you mean the one shown in the below picture (Sorry for the picture quality. Downloaded it from net) ?.

I am asking this because I recently changed the one shown in the below picture pointed by yellow arrow (I am using psr sir's picture for reference) for around 400/- bucks in the ASC. The part name in the bill was also mentioned as Master Cylinder, though I am not sure about the part number.

I was not clear with your point on brake pumping. Can you elaborate on that?

**AK3D** · 05-17-2016, 05:35 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by VR. View Post

I usually keep holding my brakes at one go for braking, but since this issue started I am surviving on brake pumping and engine braking for a decent deceleration.

The one thing you haven't stated is whether you've checked for air in the brake lines. When you say that the brake lever goes right up to the throttle, it's an indication of air. Have your brakes bled properly and fill in DOT4. Please google for brake bleeding techniques. If that wasn't done properly, it'll lead to bad braking.

**VR.** · 05-17-2016, 05:59 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by AK3D View Post

The one thing you haven't stated is whether you've checked for air in the brake lines. When you say that the brake lever goes right up to the throttle, it's an indication of air. Have your brakes bled properly and fill in DOT4. Please google for brake bleeding techniques. If that wasn't done properly, it'll lead to bad braking.

[MENTION=52772]AK3D[/MENTION] : Thanks for the response. I got all disc brake related works done in ASC. I'll probably check the brake bleeding part and get it done at the earliest.

@ Chennai xBhpians : Please suggest me a good trusty mechanic.

I have been closely following a lot of posts by [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir and [MENTION=22265]SriramEfunds[/MENTION] sir. Calling for your help in suggesting me a good mechanic for the same.

**SriramEfunds** · 05-17-2016, 06:36 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=83756]VR.[/MENTION] Going through the posts, guess you have been already advised as what needs to be done.
Well, I rarely leave the bike for service if at all beyond my ability but most of the time, it's just a basic servicing like oil change, air filter change, plug inspection and brake pads change. [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sir has taught me a lot and I'm just following.

With regards to your brake issue, try changing the master cylinder piston kit(if not already changed). Sometimes there could be an issue of wear and tear leading to poor braking.
We will proceed further once you let us know.

**Shreeni0403** · 05-17-2016, 06:40 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

RTR's master cylinder is a direct replacement if you're willing to change it altogether.
P.P.S - Never pump brakes. That's a disaster waiting to happen.

Any idea on rtr price?

Is it the whole assembly or even the piston is direct fit?

How much will Master cylinder piston of zma cost ?

**Divya Sharan** · 05-17-2016, 06:47 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post

Any idea on rtr price?

Is it the whole assembly or even the piston is direct fit?

How much will Master cylinder piston of zma cost ?

Both cost in the same ballpark of 1200 to 1400. The NISSIN MC kit is progressive (Except Yamaha R15's, where the MC costs 4,800 rupees - yeah, that's right!) whereas the GABRIEL kit from the RTR series brings a sharper feel to the braking experience. It would no longer remain progressive, rather it will be RTRish (braking starts as soon as the lever is pressed) in terms of braking feel.

**Shreeni0403** · 05-17-2016, 06:54 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by Divya Sharan View Post

Both cost in the same ballpark of 1200 to 1400. The NISSIN MC kit is progressive (Except Yamaha R15's, where the MC costs 4,800 rupees - yeah, that's right!) whereas the GABRIEL kit from the RTR series brings a sharper feel to the braking experience. It would no longer remain progressive, rather it will be RTRish (braking starts as soon as the lever is pressed) in terms of braking feel.

Just the piston? [emoji15]

**Divya Sharan** · 05-17-2016, 07:45 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post

Just the piston? [emoji15]

Master cylinder replacement kit only. R15 brake assy including the calipers and pistons cost 8k.

**VR.** · 05-17-2016, 09:40 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

@VR. Going through the posts, guess you have been already advised as what needs to be done.
Well, I rarely leave the bike for service if at all beyond my ability but most of the time, it's just a basic servicing like oil change, air filter change, plug inspection and brake pads change. @psr sir has taught me a lot and I'm just following.

With regards to your brake issue, try changing the master cylinder piston kit(if not already changed). Sometimes there could be an issue of wear and tear leading to poor braking.
We will proceed further once you let us know.

[MENTION=22265]SriramEfunds[/MENTION] sir : Thanks for your response. Correct me if I am wrong. I assume that by master cylinder piston kit, you mean the "part number 12" in the below picture. If that was not what you meant, should I go ahead and change the entire list mentioned in the picture?

P.S : I had recently changed the "part number 12" (costed 485/-) couple of months back.

**AK3D** · 05-17-2016, 09:53 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by VR. View Post

@SriramEfunds sir : Thanks for your response. Correct me if I am wrong. I assume that by master cylinder piston kit, you mean the "part number 12" in the below picture. If that was not what you meant, should I go ahead and change the entire list mentioned in the picture?

P.S : I had recently changed the "part number 12" (costed 485/-) couple of months back.

Part #12 45530-471-831 is the Master Cylinder kit. However, if after installing it, air was not removed from the system (as happens when the work is left to our wonderful mechanics), you'll face the issue you specified. In fact, that might have been the entire issue from the beginning.

Look at some videos on brake bleeding, and do so in the proper manner to get rid of any air in the brake lines before doing anything else.

**VR.** · 05-17-2016, 11:21 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Originally posted by AK3D View Post

Part #12 45530-471-831 is the Master Cylinder kit. However, if after installing it, air was not removed from the system (as happens when the work is left to our wonderful mechanics), you'll face the issue you specified. In fact, that might have been the entire issue from the beginning.

Look at some videos on brake bleeding, and do so in the proper manner to get rid of any air in the brake lines before doing anything else.

As you said, I will first start with the brake bleeding.

This would be my first DIY on disc brakes..

Hope I don't mess with it..

.

Heavy rain in Chennai.. Waiting for a bright day to get started

**SriramEfunds** · 05-17-2016, 11:46 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[MENTION=83756]VR.[/MENTION] Yes. Please note that showroom guys might offer cbz xtreme part instead. Verify the part number if that belongs to Zma.
If you are doing it on your own, make sure you have circlip pliers(check Amazon), else you won't be able to remove the piston. During the process insulate around the brake reservoir with waste cloth so the body paint is not affected.

Check AK3D's post, he has given you a dimension to troubleshoot.

**karizmar2014** · 05-18-2016, 01:22 PM

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

How do you determine your slide is getting stuck? I'm facing a problem and i'm unsure if it's slide stuck or something other. Between 2k-3k RPM, when i accelerate, it moves very slowly, it even constants at a point but, when i accelerate more, the needle moves fast after it crosses 3k. What could be the possible problem?

Originally posted by ankit.traveller View Post

@experts..have 2 queries-
1. My zma throttle slide getting stuck intermittently. I have cleaned slide twice in last 2k kms (removed black carbon like deposits by rag paper) but again slide getting stuck between 4k to 5k rpm on aggresive throttling. What is the root cause of this?

2. I have zmr front tubeless tyre 80/100-18 and I my steed does 80kmph@5200rpm whereas it should do at 5k rpm, this slight difference is speedo error due to tyre? I am not feeling any clutch slippage symptoms and top speed is 125kmph.

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