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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
For whatever reason be it overfilling or high viscosity if the oil pressure exceeds a threshold you'll notice excess oil residue in the air filter box, which is nothing to to fret about. The same can be observed after longer intervals as well. Just make sure to open the drain once a year to let go of the gunk and you're good to go.Originally posted by Lone7raveller View PostMotorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
That is absolutely personal choice, thumb rule is to not go below the operational grade(the value after W).Originally posted by Lone7raveller View Post@ashwinprakas Buddy, do you think that 20w50 is a higher viscosity oil for zma, I've heard that many zma owners prefer 10w30! I've tried using it too. But 20w50 makes my machine feel more refined and smooth!
My CT100B is suggested to run on 10W30, but I go with 20W50 and worst case scenario I get some vapor leaks near the PCV valve, and this is after riding at WOT around the country, my reason for opting for 20W50 was due to its longer drain intervals cause even 20W50's would crap out around the 2k km's mark given the conditions.
So I'd say go with what puts you at ease.
Motorcycling Experience:
2000 ~ 2017 Y2K Kinetic Zoom (Disposed at 15k)
2011 ~ 2015 Hero Honda Karizma R (Sold at 56.5k)
2013 ~ 2014 Bajaj Discover 100 4G (Sold at 16.5k)
2015 ~ 2017 TVS Wego (Totaled at 18k)
2015 - Bajaj Pulsar 220F (Currently 31k) < Garage Queen!
2017 - Bajaj CT100B (Currently 21k) < 'Golden Quadrilateral' Runner!
The Ride was Good, but Life is short, spend it Wisely!
Adios Comrades!
A.P. 2018
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
The AFR setting will vary depending on engine vacuum and compression, as also the Air Filter porosity and cleanliness. The stock setting to begin the tune is 3.5 turn like you did, and adjust it for the level of FE and acceleration required. The Rust deposits seen in the float bowl is not a good sign...it means there is rust inside the Petrol tank.. If it is so then over a period of time it will start to leak through holes in tank and will also plug the Petrol tap filters and very low to no petrol flow will be there...So check for Rusting inside tank.Originally posted by Lone7raveller View PostHi everyone, I'm a DIY kind of guy, but as of now I think i messed up with the carburator, ........I had cleaned the carb twice and found out that there was a lot of dirt in the bottom of the carb! Plus I have this oil leakage in the airfilter ! Need supervised advice! Thank you [ATTACH]241301[/ATTACH]
The stock Karizma came with 20w40 and using a grade above w50 will make the engine sluggish and a slight drop in FE. The oil deposit inside Air Filter box is directly proportional to the amount of Blowby in Crankcase..It there is a pool of oil in 5~6 k Kms then suspect blowby due to Piston Compression ring leak...in other words your engine may be getting worn out OR your Piston rings are not free, and stuck in the grooves.
Unless you open the clutch side case and inspect the condition of clutch bell and bearing you will not be able to judge it's condition..You can get it done at ASC or with a Mechanic with good knowledge and Good TOOLS.Originally posted by Om1234 View PostSir please guide me what to do?When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Thanks a tonn sir! I will work on it and will keep you guys updated! As of now I'm having prelims ! Will start working on ionce it's over, thanks again [MENTION=37035]ashwinprakas[/MENTION] and [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] sirOriginally posted by psr View PostThe AFR setting will vary depending on engine vacuum and compression, as also the Air Filter porosity and cleanliness. The stock setting to begin the tune is 3.5 turn like you did, and adjust it for the level of FE and acceleration required. The Rust deposits seen in the float bowl is not a good sign...it means there is rust inside the Petrol tank.. If it is so then over a period of time it will start to leak through holes in tank and will also plug the Petrol tap filters and very low to no petrol flow will be there...So check for Rusting inside tank.
The stock Karizma came with 20w40 and using a grade above w50 will make the engine sluggish and a slight drop in FE. The oil deposit inside Air Filter box is directly proportional to the amount of Blowby in Crankcase..It there is a pool of oil in 5~6 k Kms then suspect blowby due to Piston Compression ring leak...in other words your engine may be getting worn out OR your Piston rings are not free, and stuck in the grooves.
Unless you open the clutch side case and inspect the condition of clutch bell and bearing you will not be able to judge it's condition..You can get it done at ASC or with a Mechanic with good knowledge and Good TOOLS.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=psr;1338825]This carb you have , has electronic choke and single Throttle cable type...if you see the other side of throttle actuator, there is a capped portion which is meant for attaching the TPS.The Vacuum pickup point is also situated on top side of Carb....Since this carb., is not original meant for ZMA you have received without it..Try to get a Carb., meant for ZMA since TPS does make a difference to riding experience in ZMA.[/QUOTE [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION]
Sir I'm using the same carburetor in my zma. Will it do any harm to my bike?
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=rydergeorge;1341839]The TPS adjusts the ignition timing depending on the throttle position , in ZMA. without it, the performance will be slightly compromised and will not be same as stock one...the TPS is a continuously variable 5 K Ohm resistance with one end connected to ground, the other end connected to + 5 Volts and the center variable point connected to the CDI internal circuitry...Leaving it open can affect the ignition timing and performance but will not cause anyOriginally posted by psr View PostThis carb you have , has electronic choke and single Throttle cable type...if you see the other side of throttle actuator, there is a capped portion which is meant for attaching the TPS.The Vacuum pickup point is also situated on top side of Carb....Since this carb., is not original meant for ZMA you have received without it..Try to get a Carb., meant for ZMA since TPS does make a difference to riding experience in ZMA.[/QUOTE @psr
Sir I'm using the same carburetor in my zma. Will it do any harm to my bike?
harm...
Last edited by psr; 06-04-2018, 10:19 AM.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=psr;1341872]@psrOriginally posted by rydergeorge View Post
The TPS adjusts the ignition timing depending on the throttle position , in ZMA. without it, the performance will be slightly compromised and will not be same as stock one...the TPS is a continuously variable 5 K Ohm resistance with one end connected to ground, the other end connected to + 5 Volts and the center variable point connected to the CDI internal circuitry...Leaving it open can affect the ignition timing and performance but will not cause any
harm...
[ATTACH]241486[/ATTACH][ATTACH]241487[/ATTACH]
Sir,
Do I have any other option than changing the carb to stock one? When I bought the zma before some months, the afr screw was jammed and i was getting FE around 20 km/l. My mechanic drilled the afr and put a new one. But he told me that a part called atomiser is damaged and I have to replace the carb. So, I decided to go to the used parts store because i had already spent a lot of money in my bike. I was not familiar with zma or any parts of it at that time. They gave me this carb saying that it is zma's at 1700rs.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=rydergeorge;1341885]Atomizer! Maybe he was referring to jets.confirm once you will get those in parts. It will cost around 500 RS approx.Originally posted by psr View Post@psr
Sir,
Do I have any other option than changing the carb to stock one? When I bought the zma before some months, the afr screw was jammed and i was getting FE around 20 km/l. My mechanic drilled the afr and put a new one. But he told me that a part called atomiser is damaged and I have to replace the carb. So, I decided to go to the used parts store because i had already spent a lot of money in my bike. I was not familiar with zma or any parts of it at that time. They gave me this carb saying that it is zma's at 1700rs.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=curse;1341886]I made a mistake brother[emoji58]. When he asked, I gave the old carb to the mechanic. He said he can use the other parts of that and I thought it might be helpful to some other with carb fault.[emoji856]Originally posted by rydergeorge View PostAtomizer! Maybe he was referring to jets.confirm once you will get those in parts. It will cost around 500 RS approx.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
When filling oil after draining out the old oil , fill by the dipstick , NOT by volume . The level should be kept in-between the min-max marks of the dipstick . It should also be checked from time to time that the oil level is maintained between those marks . The process to measure with dipstick is given in user manual , but I shall repeat here - With bike in main-stand on level ground , unscrew the filling cap and withdraw it . Wipe it clean with clean cloth , re-insert the oil-cap into it's home until it comes to rest on it's threads - but do not screw it in at all . Now withdraw it out again and check the oil-level at it's tip . The min-max marks are marked on the dipstick . Oil level should never go lower than minimum mark or exceed the maximum mark .Originally posted by Lone7raveller View Post... I always make sure that I drain the entire oil out of my engine before refilling it! I use motul 20w50 semi synthetic oil (1 ltr) to refill !Last edited by Pinaki; 06-05-2018, 01:58 AM.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
[QUOTE=rydergeorge;1341885]One way to get around this problem is to fix 1.8 K resistor from ground to center point of connector and 3 K ohm from the hot (+5v) end to Center point. this will give satisfactory running , though not equal to having the TPS.Originally posted by psr View Post@psr
Sir,
Do I have any other option than changing the carb to stock one? When I bought the zma before some months, the afr screw was jammed and i was getting FE around 20 km/l. My mechanic drilled the afr and put a new one. But he told me that a part called atomiser is damaged and I have to replace the carb. So, I decided to go to the used parts store because i had already spent a lot of money in my bike. I was not familiar with zma or any parts of it at that time. They gave me this carb saying that it is zma's at 1700rs.When Was The Last Time,You Did Something For The First Time.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Pinaki sir,Originally posted by Pinaki View PostWhen filling oil after draining out the old oil , fill by the dipstick , NOT by volume . The level should be kept in-between the min-max marks of the dipstick . It should also be checked from time to time that the oil level is maintained between those marks . The process to measure with dipstick is given in user manual , but I shall repeat here - With bike in main-stand on level ground , unscrew the filling cap and withdraw it . Wipe it clean with clean cloth , re-insert the oil-cap into it's home until it comes to rest on it's threads - but do not screw it in at all . Now withdraw it out again and check the oil-level at it's tip . The min-max marks are marked on the dipstick . Oil level should never go lower than minimum mark or exceed the maximum mark .
I would suggest a small addition to this : Warm up the bike in neutral for 2-3 minutes before removing the dipstick. This will ensure oil has circulated enough inside the engine. We should be having adequate oil after the warm up. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience
Correct , in regular running engine it should be warmed up for a few minutes before checking oil level as is mentioned in the owner's manuals . But when refilling with fresh oil after draining out old oil this may be done only after the new oil has been poured in up to the correct level . Afterwards the engine may be warmed up and level checked as usual and topped up if needed .Originally posted by SatSon View PostPinaki sir,
I would suggest a small addition to this : Warm up the bike in neutral for 2-3 minutes before removing the dipstick. This will ensure oil has circulated enough inside the engine. We should be having adequate oil after the warm up. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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