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**Race_Developed** · 04-27-2011, 10:57 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

I am merely trying to reduce the load on the battery and the alternator...so I can go for a higher head light power without stressing them...Since my bike is a pre-owned the battery is not in good condition and I am trying to manage to get the best out of it before switching to new one.....also the stock turn indicator relay is mechanical,while I had changed to solid state one which will allow me to put in any wattage bulb without difference in on/off timing

Getting load off the alternator is a good idea, but for just getting a higher headlight power

. On a long run putting a higher rating bulb would melt your reflectors. Even a 55/60 used continuously for 5-6 hrs daily would burn the reflectors. I dont think going in for a higher rating bulb on the ZMA is a good idea.

**psr** · 04-27-2011, 12:06 PM

Originally posted by Race_Developed View Post

Getting load off the alternator is a good idea, but for just getting a higher headlight power

. On a long run putting a higher rating bulb would melt your reflectors. Even a 55/60 used continuously for 5-6 hrs daily would burn the reflectors. I dont think going in for a higher rating bulb on the ZMA is a good idea.

I avoid driving long distance in the night..my city riding in nights will amount to only half an hour at a stretch..A 50/60 halogen will make the reflector dull over a period of time... people have used it without issues before
.However I am looking at possibilities only..Thanks for the concern....I am aware of it,since I had already inspected the air vents of the Headlights...and there is only one small vent.

**Shreeni0403** · 04-27-2011, 12:22 PM

Originally posted by Race_Developed View Post

Getting load off the alternator is a good idea, but for just getting a higher headlight power

. On a long run putting a higher rating bulb would melt your reflectors. Even a 55/60 used continuously for 5-6 hrs daily would burn the reflectors. I dont think going in for a higher rating bulb on the ZMA is a good idea.

Bro !! 5-6 hours a day isn't really practical. Atleast not for a regular user.

7PM to 1AM on road with headlights daily

I had used 55/60w on my Unicorn for over 2 years with average of about 12hours night riding per week. And I didn't face any issues. And my bike was in DC setup. ZMA's reflectors are much superior ones, so it should be able to handle 55/60w Bulb easily.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 04-27-2011, 12:51 PM

Seen this in front of a HH SVC.He was ripping very good.

**Race_Developed** · 04-27-2011, 09:08 PM

@Shreeni : its only a concern, putting a bigger bulb wold burn the reflectors quicker is what i meant.

**shadu** · 04-28-2011, 12:35 AM

I have got the philips extreme 55/60W bulb installed sometime back on recommendation from xbhpians and i am very happy with it. I would'nt mind changing the reflectors if at all they get faded after 3 or 4 years but 55/60 is there to stay.

**Shreeni0403** · 04-28-2011, 11:32 AM

Originally posted by Race_Developed View Post

@Shreeni : its only a concern, putting a bigger bulb wold burn the reflectors quicker is what i meant.

Agreed !! One needs to take care that the lights are OFF when the bike is stand still as the air flow will not be there and the heat will increase.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 04-28-2011, 09:10 PM

Guys my gear shift problem solved.The marked bot was loose.So tightened it.Now everything fine but gear shift makes a TAK sound,Is it normal?

**harishsangwan** · 04-28-2011, 09:36 PM

Guys..my bike seems to have a little dip in the power for a brief moment when it reaches 70-75kmph. As if the eng stalls and recovers within no time and this was happening quite consistently around the same speed mark. Did feel the same even at 50kmps sometimes.
Any clue as to what could be wrong?

I will be giving my bike for servicing in a couple of days, so it would help to know whats wrong with the bike in advance.

**pitbull** · 04-28-2011, 09:50 PM

Rear Michelin 4.00 touching either chain guard or brake rod

Issue: Rear Michelin 4.00 touching either chain guard (left) or brake rod(right) on my KarizmaR

I have michelins M45 both front (3.00x18) and rear (4.00x18) - and they are amazing!!! on my Karizma. however, i noticed that the rear tyre slightly kisses the rear-brake-holding rod (on the right side)....and at times (when i adjust the tyre to the left)..the chain guard as well...

I just wanted to know if you faced the same problem, if so what did you do to set it right....

Thanks!

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 04-28-2011, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by pitbull View Post

Issue: Rear Michelin 4.00 touching either chain guard (left) or brake rod(right) on my KarizmaR

I have michelins M45 both front (3.00x18) and rear (4.00x18) - and they are amazing!!! on my Karizma. however, i noticed that the rear tyre slightly kisses the rear-brake-holding rod (on the right side)....and at times (when i adjust the tyre to the left)..the chain guard as well...

I just wanted to know if you faced the same problem, if so what did you do to set it right....

Thanks!

Bend the link rod correctly as given in the pic and use spacers to make more space between tire and link rod as i did and try adjusting tire after that.Pics included.

**pitbull** · 04-29-2011, 12:34 AM

Brilliant explanation Aneesh - thanks. Also, for that parts catalogue....

**pitbull** · 04-29-2011, 12:58 AM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Guys my gear shift problem solved.The marked bot was loose.So tightened it.Now everything fine but gear shift makes a TAK sound,Is it normal?

The gear shift doesnt make any TAK noise. Try to compare the TAK noise before and after you tightened that nut. I am no expert, however, this is a good way to find out.

**BOND_001** · 04-29-2011, 01:10 AM

Originally posted by pitbull View Post

The gear shift doesnt make any TAK noise. Try to compare the TAK noise before and after you tightened that nut. I am no expert, however, this is a good way to find out.

the same noise is there in my bike for a few weeks, i thought that the chain link must have gone kaput and took an old link from the previous chain as link was not available,it ran well for a few days but the sound has returned.anyone had similar issue before?

**psr** · 04-29-2011, 03:07 PM

Yesterday tried working throttle with only one cable...ie., only the pull which actuates the throttle when you twist it.There was no idling or acceleration difference, but the throttle twister went further down(clockwise) and there was cable slack at the carburettor end..There seems to be 2 inches of extra cable length . ..So it is possible to work the throttle with single cable...The second cable actually stops the throttle twist from reaching the end clockwise when we reduce it to zero...may be designed to save the twist from getting damaged and have a free rotation .

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