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**harishsangwan** · 05-17-2011, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Performance Unlimited 4-Wheel & Off Road Center - Hartford, Wisconsin - USA Technical Documents

This is interesting. Will give it a try sometime later.

Today I decided to have a close look at my bike and see what other problems I could find from the outside. Heres what I have:
1. Air Filter.
-I am not sure about how the air filter is suppose to look and dont remember when the air filter was changed on my bike. Let me know if its time for a change. If yes, then which filter would you guys suggest. Heres a pic of it:

-When I removed the air filter box, which then shows the air intake for the carburetor, I could see some fluid leak around the fitting of the intake. What could be wrong here?

2. Oil Leaks.
-At the bottom of the bike, just above the side stand link:

-At the gear lever mount:

-And also on the left side of the engine:

The yellow tint that you see in the picture is the oil that seem to be leaking from just below the screw.

3. Cracks on the fuel/air outlet coming from the carburetor.
There are cracks at the outlet face of the fuel/air tube, where it gets mounted onto the cylinder. Not sure what exactly you call it. The cracks are on both the sides, left and right.
-Left side:

-Right side:

Hope I dint confuse you guys and was clear with what I wanted to explain. Now need your inputs on what could be wrong with my bike and do provide solutions for the same.

**BOND_001** · 05-17-2011, 06:05 PM

Here are the the answers
1.)the filter needs to be changed.
2.)from the photo, it seems that oil is from the chain.
3.)there is an o-ring of 30mm under that screw, change it.
4.)the rubber manifold is showing signs of wear/tear, how old is your bike? normally it does not wear/tear out that fast, maybe an incompetant mechanic or a theft attempt?

**harishsangwan** · 05-17-2011, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by BOND_001 View Post

Here are the the answers
1.)the filter needs to be changed.
2.)from the photo, it seems that oil is from the chain.
3.)there is an o-ring of 30mm under that screw, change it.
4.)the rubber manifold is showing signs of wear/tear, how old is your bike? normally it does not wear/tear out that fast, maybe an incompetant mechanic or a theft attempt?

1. Should I go for the same filter or something like the K&N filter will be better?
And what about the leak I mentioned around the air intake fitting? Thats seen after removing the air filter frame.
2. I shall clean off all the oil I can and see if it gets accumulated again.
3. Will get that done.
4. The top crack marked on the 'Ride Side' pic is pretty bad. I was trying to clear out all the dirt from there and noticed that the upper part was moving due to the crack.

My bike is 7yrs old and has about 38k kms on the ODO.

**Only Amit...** · 05-17-2011, 07:30 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

1. Should I go for the same filter or something like the K&N filter will be better?
And what about the leak I mentioned around the air intake fitting? Thats seen after removing the air filter frame.
Its your call to choose stock filter or K&N...K&N will change the sound but won't give noticable performace rise if you dont upjet.
2. I shall clean off all the oil I can and see if it gets accumulated again.
The oil accumulated inside the filtercase happens if you over oil the filter but AFAIK we dont oil stock filter...clean and check again
3. Will get that done.

4. The top crack marked on the 'Ride Side' pic is pretty bad. I was trying to clear out all the dirt from there and noticed that the upper part was moving due to the crack.

My bike is 7yrs old and has about 38k kms on the ODO.
Mine is 1yr 6 months and has 35k kms on the ODO...will cross you in a month

Jokes apart, the svc guys would have changed your filter atleast once!!!

Please find the response inline!

**harishsangwan** · 05-17-2011, 07:45 PM

Thanks for ur replies mate.
I just wanna resolve the power drop issue I mentioned earlier here: http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/629646-post5221.html

And what about the cracks at the manifold? Is it a huge mess to fix this or just a manifold replacement?
Will go to the mechanic again after I get enough knowledge about what exactly is happening with my bike.

**psr** · 05-17-2011, 08:12 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

This is interesting. Will give it a try sometime later.

Today I decided to have a close look at my bike and see what other problems I could find from the outside. Heres what I have:
1. Air Filter.
-I am not sure about how the air filter is suppose to look and dont remember when the air filter was changed on my bike. Let me know if its time for a change. If yes, then which filter would you guys suggest. Heres a pic of it:
Your Air filter is clogged with dust replace with stock ASAP.
-When I removed the air filter box, which then shows the air intake for the carburetor, I could see some fluid leak around the fitting of the intake. What could be wrong here?
It is the crank case breather connected to air filter box for breathing clean air..nothing wrong to see oil...If you wipe it dry it will come back again,depending on the type of riding and engine condition....Nothing to worry.
2. Oil Leaks.
-At the bottom of the bike, just above the side stand link:
-At the gear lever mount:
And also on the left side of the engine:

The yellow tint that you see in the picture is the oil that seem to be leaking from just below the screw.

There are three possibilities for this leak
1. from the drive shaft oil seal
2. from the gear shaft
3. from the Neutral indicator stub...Most likely reason..

3. Cracks on the fuel/air outlet coming from the carburetor.
There are cracks at the outlet face of the fuel/air tube, where it gets mounted onto the cylinder. Not sure what exactly you call it. The cracks are on both the sides, left and right.
-Left side:

-Right side:
This is a more serious problem and you need to change the mounting rubber immediately..because there will be loss of inlet vacuum and fuel charge through this crack and loss of performance.I had uploaded the parts manual with part no. please use the manual to know the different parts location and requirement..

Mr.Aneesh@4Ghz has the link as his signature.......at the bottom of all his posts.

Replies in bold.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 05-17-2011, 08:28 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

1. Air Filter.
-I am not sure about how the air filter is suppose to look and dont remember when the air filter was changed on my bike. Let me know if its time for a change. If yes, then which filter would you guys suggest.

Replace your airfilter with OEM one.It will cost you 300RS.

When I removed the air filter box, which then shows the air intake for the carburetor, I could see some fluid leak around the fitting of the intake. What could be wrong here?

Is it still in fluid state??Because it may be glue used to fix the carburetor pipe with air box,just my thought,Check once more...

Because there is no way for oil to came there.

2. Oil Leaks.
-At the bottom of the bike, just above the side stand link:

From the picture,its clear that your chain is dirty and accumulated with oil and dirt.Clean it with diesel and see if it gets accumulated again.

-At the gear lever mount:

Seems like the oil seal is gone...Clean it and again check for oil leakage.If oil is leaking again,then the oil seal is gone.Dont worry,it wont cost you much,Karizma's engine contains four oil seals,Oil seals come in a pack of these four,it will cost you 52RS.

-And also on the left side of the engine:

Get that 30Mm O Ring replaced,It wont cost you much,but hard to find it as one.

3. Cracks on the fuel/air outlet coming from the carburetor.
There are cracks at the outlet face of the fuel/air tube, where it gets mounted onto the cylinder. Not sure what exactly you call it. The cracks are on both the sides, left and right.

Nothing to talk too much,replace the rubber part.Part # 11,INSULATOR,This will be the main cause of your power dip,Replace this one asap.

Hope this helps.

**Aneesh@4GHz** · 05-17-2011, 08:33 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is the crank case breather connected to air filter box for breathing clean air..nothing wrong to see oil...If you wipe it dry it will come back again,depending on the type of riding and engine condition....Nothing to worry.

Sir i think he meant this fluid,the marked one,I think its the glue used to fix it in air box,Correct me if i am wrong.

Originally posted by psr View Post

Mr.Aneesh@4Ghz has the link as his signature.......at the bottom of all his posts.

Happy to see this.

**harishsangwan** · 05-17-2011, 09:32 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

It is the crank case breather connected to air filter box for breathing clean air..nothing wrong to see oil...If you wipe it dry it will come back again,depending on the type of riding and engine condition....Nothing to worry.

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Is it still in fluid state??Because it may be glue used to fix the carburetor pipe with air box,just my thought,Check once more...

Because there is no way for oil to came there.

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Sir i think he meant this fluid,the marked one,I think its the glue used to fix it in air box,Correct me if i am wrong.

Theres some oil just below the air intake too, can be seen in the picture. It could be glue around the tube but theres oil for sure. It seem to be dripping from the joint. Will clean it up and update about the same later.

Originally posted by psr View Post

There are three possibilities for this leak
1. from the drive shaft oil seal
2. from the gear shaft
3. from the Neutral indicator stub...Most likely reason.

This is greek for me

possible for u to indicate these in the mentioned manual. Too many seals and parts to zero in on one with my level of knowledge.

Originally posted by psr View Post

This is a more serious problem and you need to change the mounting rubber immediately..because there will be loss of inlet vacuum and fuel charge through this crack and loss of performance.I had uploaded the parts manual with part no. please use the manual to know the different parts location and requirement..

Mr.Aneesh@4Ghz has the link as his signature.......at the bottom of all his posts

The manual is very helpful to understand the technical terms. Will still be needing help though. Anyways, thanks a ton for the manual

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

From the picture,its clear that your chain is dirty and accumulated with oil and dirt.Clean it with diesel and see if it gets accumulated again.p

Not sure if the mechanic put in too much oil in the chain. But wont I have to use some oil for the chain even if I clean it dry with diesel?

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Seems like the oil seal is gone...Clean it and again check for oil leakage.If oil is leaking again,then the oil seal is gone.Dont worry,it wont cost you much,Karizma's engine contains four oil seals,Oil seals come in a pack of these four,it will cost you 52RS.

Which particular oil seal are you talking about?

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Get that 30Mm O Ring replaced,It wont cost you much,but hard to find it as one.

Is this ring included in the above mentioned seals?

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Nothing to talk too much,replace the rubber part.Part # 11,INSULATOR

Will I also have to replace the O-ring here? No.21 that is.

Appreciate all the help guys. Will get started with all this tomorrow and keep you posted.
Looks like all these issues are resulting in the degraded performance and the momentary power drop at certain point.

**psr** · 05-17-2011, 09:58 PM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

Sir i think he meant this fluid,the marked one,I think its the glue used to fix it in air box,Correct me if i am wrong.

Yes it is the glue but it is obvious it is glue , so I thought he was pointing to the oil which usually accumulates inside the air filter....

Happy to see this.

You have honestly tried to help many ...so Have to Acknowledge your effort...

Replies in bold

**santoosh** · 05-17-2011, 10:01 PM

air filter is 205 rs oly

**psr** · 05-17-2011, 10:03 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

This is greek for me

possible for u to indicate these in the mentioned manual. Too many seals and parts to zero in on one with my level of knowledge.
Here is the Gear shifter and Neutral indicator stub

and here is the drive shaft oil seal details.

The manual is very helpful to understand the technical terms. Will still be needing help though. Anyways, thanks a ton for the manual

Glad to be of help ...do share it with others..like Aneesh.

.

Replies in bold

**lonelyrider08** · 05-17-2011, 10:09 PM

Need suggestion

Hello guys,
I m heading to ladakh in next month. So i m going to use fully synthetic oil for my zma. Can i use mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w 40 fully synthetic oil in karizma r? i do not getting Petronas 5000 10W40 - Full synthetic oil so i m thinking to go for mobil 1. So guys please advice me.

Thanks in advance.

**SriramEfunds** · 05-17-2011, 10:16 PM

Originally posted by lonelyrider08 View Post

Hello guys,
I m heading to ladakh in next month. So i m going to use fully synthetic oil for my zma. Can i use mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w 40 fully synthetic oil in karizma r? i do not getting Petronas 5000 10W40 - Full synthetic oil so i m thinking to go for mobil 1. So guys please advice me.

Thanks in advance.

Go for Motul with eyes shut !

**psr** · 05-17-2011, 10:18 PM

Originally posted by lonelyrider08 View Post

Hello guys,
I m heading to ladakh in next month. So i m going to use fully synthetic oil for my zma. Can i use mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w 40 fully synthetic oil in karizma r? i do not getting Petronas 5000 10W40 - Full synthetic oil so i m thinking to go for mobil 1. So guys please advice me.

Thanks in advance.

Since you are planning on a long trip better to carry extra 1 liter, in case you need a change or top up.If your engine has mineral or semi synth oil now Do not change to Fully Synth, as some users have complained of oil leaks after some time....better to continue with same type till you return back to home turf.

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