Inappropriate post to the Karizma/Karizma R thread. You will need to find ZMR thread to your question.

Well , in those days riding gear was something that was found only in exclusive outlets in metros . Hadn't considered how cold Ooty can get . Anyway , bought my 1st jacket and gloves the very next day .
BTW , will changing the RR to a higher rated one change the current output in a ZMA R ? I'm asking 'cause (eons ago ) I had removed the RR of my RX100 and plonked in some gizmo -diode rectifier , I think it was - which enabled me to connect a 12 V , 35/35 W H/L in place of the 6V , 25/25W H/L bulb.

Dunno , but if current output is same as a ZMA R , a 35W one will give very good light . Check the color temperature though .
Since the electricals may differ from ZMA R , better ask about it in the ZMR forum.

Yes, other thing is,if it is not properly fixed,then there will be space and difference between left and right sides of the speedometer.

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replies in bold

Harish happy to note another of your DIY.....from 35 to 50 watts the difference is 15 watts.So don't expect it to be a HID like leap in Lumens..Like you said improvement will be there, but not much.If you had used Philips Extreme then because of it's superior out put and focus, you would have noticed the difference.Your bike is good , so don't worry.

Any Mod as long as it is safe and reliable for you and the bike is ok.....
End of the day, the mods should not leave you and bike stranded or injured.

Hi Sir,
You have got a PM !!!
By saying mods I was reffering to this.

@ravneetsingh

Dude, Never use a K&N without Jetting.I haven't upjet my carb but I am running on a rich mixture(5+ turns of AFR screw).I wont recommend that to anyone tho .After 37k on ODO my bike is needing some headwork and the K&N is somehow responsible.You are saying after using K&N your topend has gone, it clearly shows you are running too lean. Either upjet the carb or remove the K&N orelse your engine life will go for a toss. Anyway a stock ZMA should be able to do 110+ in 4th gear, I have gone close to 115 once .If you are running lean then the bike will refuse to redline the RPM and you will feel it too harse to push further.

The 128kmph in 4th gear @9RPM is mostly due to the 36 teeth rear sprocket.I am using P220 carb's O-ring chain and rear sprocket.This will make the gears taller and increase the topend a bit.It will also improve the fuel efficiency in Highways. BUT this will hamper the initial and you will get a sluggish power delivery.You have to change gears frequently in high altitude roads and the bike will struggle a bit.Please refer to World of Sprockets! thread for more details.

On the Boric Acid front please ask experts or refer to this thread.

Hello !
My ZMA has developed an problem.
The neutral lamp on the console doesn't blink. I also cannot start the bike by placing the bike in neutral, though I can start it by pressing the clutch lever.
What might be the problem with the neutral indicator?
The bike is performing good apart from this problem. ..

Is it a new bike or old? Whenever you seek guidance in this forum, also post about the vehicle such as model odo reading condition of the bike etc. Without information of the bike, it is difficult to assume and provide solution.

Seems to be a loose connection in the switch.
Take it to a mech., he will open up the cover near the front sprocket&reconnect the wires.
Common problem with my bike too!

Hey...np Man!!! you are welcome
Please check the below link for clear picture on how the sprocketing and tyre size affects the acceleration and top end of a bike.
Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator
I am using ZMA front sprocket as the pulser front sprocket will not fit in ZMA.You can ger custom made sprockets but the reliability is doubtful.
The Zeema chain is actually longer than Pulser's, so you need to buy some extra links along with the O-Ring chain to fit it properly. You can have the chain case open as the chain is meant for open use. However maintaining a open chain is tough!!!
The P220 carb has 36 teeth, FI has 37 teeth and P200 has 38 teeth rear sprocket.The 36 teeth rear will decrease the initial grunt to a noticable level particularly in higher altitudes and when you ride with a pillion. It will also increase the topend to certain extent as well.It might feel strange to you as it will behave little weird .
Such as:
1: Increase in speed in each RPM (this is the logic behind better FE)
2: You are having a upward slope, you have put your 5th gear @ 60.The bike will refuse to cross 80 . You need to drop gear to dissappear
3: You have put your 5th @ 60 and giving full throttle, a 150cc comes and crosses you in no time (this is not a setup for doing drags)
4: On highway even if you ride in continuous 95-100, your RPM will be around 5k and will give better FE.
IMO you go for it only if you are not satishfied with the stock sprockets, Ichoosed this coz I blowed my stock one twice in 25k kms. You can go for 37/38 teeth sprocket as well.

I am writing this long post so that we don't need to have multiple conversation and you won't blame me in future if you get a sluggish start after getting it .

You can get the Boric Acid from any chemist shop, Please please have a chat with experts and do it at your own Risk.

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Guys a quick question.. Been experimenting with my headlight for quite sometime but am not satisfied with the light output in the highway at night. At present am running on Philips BlueVision something 55/60w. Based on the suggestions here am planning to go for Bosch/Philips Premium 55/60w as a last resort before going for an aux light. Any suggestions?

Liked the 'disclaimer' amit..