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**Vishakh** · 10-05-2011, 11:06 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

No Sir, they'll wash it before returning it.

You wont believe it Sir, but thats what they did the last time I went to set my valves. Me and Aneesh were shocked when the SVC guy said that the tapet was adjusted i.e especially when both of us were at the SVC the entire time watching over the bike.

seems like i am a lucky man when it comes to my SVC

**SriramEfunds** · 10-06-2011, 12:58 AM

Originally posted by Aneesh@4GHz View Post

+1^^ Me too ordered the old chrome one.

They are very strong than newer ones.

Let me know if you can't get it, shall get it for you.

Originally posted by Vishakh View Post

One ZMA owner said that its very hard to get B cable

.

Hey last year while restoring my RX, had gone through toughest times, so my hunting skills have improved, so getting production line spares - ZMA would not pose a bigger challenge than former I believe.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

And Sir, I'll give my bike to SVC anyways to replace the cylinder kit. Cause its always better to get the parts replaced under warranty i.e in short FREE... Rather than crying over the lost opportunity after my bikes out of warranty.

If you don't mind, what exactly happened to the performance and your bike will be replaced with new cylinder, sorry I lost track from when I heard that you were not happy with the bike then.

**ashwinprakas** · 10-06-2011, 01:01 AM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

If you don't mind, what exactly happened to the performance and your bike will be replaced with new cylinder, sorry I lost track from when I heard that you were not happy with the bike then.

Nothing much Sir, was recently facing minor performance drops and engine noise. So solved the engine noise by resetting the valves. Getting cylinderkit replaced just cause the SVC offered to do so under warranty, no other particular reason.

**Pinaki** · 10-06-2011, 03:59 AM

Actually the confusion may have been with finding the actual T mark

. You'd have seen , there is a T & an F marked on the rotor , as well as one fine line to the left of each . The fine line to the left of the T is the T-mark and not the T itself . It has to be lined up with the index mark on the stationary case opposite to the flywheel rotor when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke .
On replacing your perfectly good cylinder kit now wouldn't you have to run it in all over again ?

**SriramEfunds** · 10-06-2011, 05:55 AM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

On replacing your perfectly good cylinder kit now wouldn't you have to run it in all over again ?

Ashwin required need to religiously follow the run-in procedure once again for lasting performance.

@Ashwin:- Needless to say, but just take it as a reminder.

1. Run for 500kms and change the oil. Next after 1000kms for next 2 cycle for good life of the engine.
2. Run with varied speed.
3. Never ever try to alter any setting during this period is my strong advise even DIY.
4. Always warm up the engine atleast a minute everytime for better oil circulation.
5. Off all, the worst part is, control your emotion while seeing someone wizz past you. (Imp!)

**kb100** · 10-06-2011, 06:31 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

You are the man who understood and did the job...inspite of me

So actually the nut screwed

Way back when i was learning, I kept trying to loosen the Primary gear nut by turning it anti clockwise while it should have been clockwise..Took one full day to understand..

sir its not like that ......it was a full one hour of torture , aneesh was scared , i was even more scared and ashwin was ready to bang his head onto a wall , it was horrible

**sunny_** · 10-06-2011, 10:49 AM

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Ashwin required need to religiously follow the run-in procedure once again for lasting performance.

@Ashwin:- Needless to say, but just take it as a reminder.

1. Run for 500kms and change the oil. Next after 1000kms for next 2 cycle for good life of the engine.
2. Run with varied speed.
3. Never ever try to alter any setting during this period is my strong advise even DIY.
4. Always warm up the engine atleast a minute everytime for better oil circulation.
5. Off all, the worst part is, control your emotion while seeing someone wizz past you. (Imp!)

Oh yes, this is very important during the run-in period

I never followed any of these points

**acs1207** · 10-06-2011, 11:53 AM

Originally posted by psr View Post

Hearty Congratulations .......So finally you and Ashwin had sucessfully done a D I Y of Tappet gap adjustment,which even the SVC dread to do....
Your effort is much more than my contribution,and full credit to both of you.
Keep it up...

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

it was a comedy of horrors ,setting the tappets , it will make a great read , especially about ashwin loosing his hair

had to make up special tools to solve some catastrophes that cropped up on the way , and thanks a lot psr sir for guiding us through the process

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Yeah, I promised god that I'll go bald if my bike gets better.

And Sarin bro, dont forget, "The screw that screwed us" & "The nut that made us nuts".

Originally posted by psr View Post

D I Y is not about the beaten path but about exploration into the unknown....The first few times it will be hard and frustrating,but if you pursue patiently you WILL succeed ......like you have now..
Best of luck on all your D I Ys.

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

No Sir, they'll wash it before returning it.

You wont believe it Sir, but thats what they did the last time I went to set my valves. Me and Aneesh were shocked when the SVC guy said that the tapet was adjusted i.e especially when both of us were at the SVC the entire time watching over the bike.

Well that might ber the latest technology - they can do all that from afar !!!

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Actually the confusion may have been with finding the actual T mark

. You'd have seen , there is a T & an F marked on the rotor , as well as one fine line to the left of each . The fine line to the left of the T is the T-mark and not the T itself . It has to be lined up with the index mark on the stationary case opposite to the flywheel rotor when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke .
On replacing your perfectly good cylinder kit now wouldn't you have to run it in all over again ?

Originally posted by kb100 View Post

sir its not like that ......it was a full one hour of torture , aneesh was scared , i was even more scared and ashwin was ready to bang his head onto a wall , it was horrible

Better use an old helmet when doing that ..

Well , I was (and sort of still is ) busy and couldn't check/post for some days . Found a site which might be useful to you guys . Please check it out ...

Dan's Motorcycle Valve Adjustment

Dan's Motorcycle "Valves"

Have started on acetone . Had filled in 2.91 liters of petrol and add to it the nearly 2 liters in reserve - makes nearly five liters . I've put in 6 ml - measured in a syringe - acetone only . Haven't added 2T oil . I'm planning to go up from his ratio gradually until I find the sweet spot !!!

Edit: forgot about the mother site - http://www.dansmc.com/mc_repaircourse.htm

And when you're all relaxed go to this page http://www.dansmc.com/dogtales.htm

**ashwinprakas** · 10-06-2011, 02:28 PM

Originally posted by Pinaki View Post

Actually the confusion may have been with finding the actual T mark

. You'd have seen , there is a T & an F marked on the rotor , as well as one fine line to the left of each . The fine line to the left of the T is the T-mark and not the T itself . It has to be lined up with the index mark on the stationary case opposite to the flywheel rotor when the piston is at the top of the compression stroke .
On replacing your perfectly good cylinder kit now wouldn't you have to run it in all over again ?

Sir, is there anyway to find the TDC using this thingi..

Originally posted by SriramEfunds View Post

Ashwin required need to religiously follow the run-in procedure once again for lasting performance.

@Ashwin:- Needless to say, but just take it as a reminder.

1. Run for 500kms and change the oil. Next after 1000kms for next 2 cycle for good life of the engine.
2. Run with varied speed.
3. Never ever try to alter any setting during this period is my strong advise even DIY.
4. Always warm up the engine atleast a minute everytime for better oil circulation.
5. Off all, the worst part is, control your emotion while seeing someone wizz past you. (Imp!)

I know Sir, I'll follow the run-in process extremely religiously, cause I believe I've slacked the last time.

. This time, even if a M80 overtakes me, I wont mind. Infact I'd also do the run-in riding single only.

**curse** · 10-06-2011, 02:50 PM

TDC position can be located by removing the spark plug ang inserting a long screw driver and rotating the crankshaft,the moment the screwdriver goes down after coming fully up its the TDC.

**ashwinprakas** · 10-06-2011, 02:52 PM

Originally posted by curse View Post

TDC position can be located by removing the spark plug ang inserting a long screw driver and rotating the crankshaft,the moment the screwdriver goes down after coming fully up its the TDC.

Been there, done that.

Need an easier and accurate measure methode.

**psr** · 10-06-2011, 07:42 PM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Sir, is there anyway to find the TDC using this thingi..

I know Sir, I'll follow the run-in process extremely religiously, cause I believe I've slacked the last time.

. This time, even if a M80 overtakes me, I wont mind. Infact I'd also do the run-in riding single only.

The present position of the twin horizontal lines on the timing sprocket must coincide with the TDC mark on the rotor.Note the diamond mark just above the right horizontal line,to remain as a marker for identification of one full turn.

**Pinaki** · 10-07-2011, 01:17 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Sir, is there anyway to find the TDC using this thingi..

I know Sir, I'll follow the run-in process extremely religiously, cause I believe I've slacked the last time.

. This time, even if a M80 overtakes me, I wont mind. Infact I'd also do the run-in riding single only.

Maybe , but I frankly don't know of it . This is the timing chain sprocket . The way I have seen it done was on the flywheel rotor on the magneto/alternator side of the engine by removing the engine-side cover on it . Feeling sorry now that I didn't click any pics then

... lemme see if I can find an illustration later .

**curse** · 10-07-2011, 09:00 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

Been there, done that.

Need an easier and accurate measure methode.

OK!!I thought that was the easiest method.

**ankss** · 10-07-2011, 06:48 PM

hello every one ... i have a query ...

my bike fell down from the main stand in my parking lot as few kids are playing over there ... when i picked up the bike and took a test ride ... its alignment goes ... is the karizma r handle so fragile ....

and again .. my right side cowl got damaged

:'(

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