The ramp could be lowered.
And Sir,
about the ramp, was surprised, cause in KLM the only place's having 2 wheeler ramps are the SVC's, the local workshops cant afford it. I dont know why but something deep inside tells me that I'll sooner or later be giving that mechanic of yours a visit. (Dead Serious.)


The kicker is forgiving, i.e if there are any minor miscalculations then the kicker would just seize to move, where as the starter motor would put unnecessary load on the cylinder kit, in the event of any mishap. Also kicker helps to ascertain compression.
From personal experience, I've learned that we should never use the kicker unless you really need to, these modern bikes arent made in such a way that the kickers should be used on a daily basis. It just wears down the gears and also damages the decompressor.


Try running with IOC Premium./QUOTE]



Please PM me the cost details. Thanks in advance.

Replies in bold/maroon

Wanted to know the exact costs cause, if I start saving up now, then by the time my warranty's over, I might be able to do full blown mods on my ZMA.

And sir, after your run ins over. Please provide a report on the acceleration and engine performance post 8k.

Never used kicker, in fact I have removed them right after purchasing my bike. Had to use choke during cold weather. But have never used the choke for the past 1 year since installing NGK iridium plugs. They work wonders for cold weather. One click on the starter "every time" is all it takes to start, and thats no exaggeration. Been waiting to upgrade battery to 9 amps, but the three year old original Battery is still like new, so have to wait longer.

About use of kicker. When the bike is not used for several hours the oil coating on the piston will go off and during the next start it will cause wear of the rings. Most of the engine wear occurs during starting. I don't know if it will cause much of a difference in the long run but I do give 2 dead kicks with ignition off and on the third kick with ignition on and the bike will roar to life. I do it in the morning most times and other times I use the starter switch. I am also not sure if its applicable for new gen bikes.

Maybe some habits are hard to change for me or maybe I am superstitious but I do it every time . It sort of gives me a weird happy feeling when the bike comes to life on the 3rd kick in the mornings. It means a good day ahead for me .

Need Crash Guard for Karizma-R

some idiot had put my bike down in the office parking lot and handle is bent now.

Can someone suggest crash guard for Karizma-R

I was hearing that Honda's Twister /Stunner's crash guard is a direct fit without removing the Engine Under Cowl.

Please advice if anyone has seen or done this before.

Me too running on the stock battery and using NGK Iridium. Here in the morning its just too cold, so the bike'll start with one press, but wont idle properly, so what I've done to overcome it is, by upping the idle RPM when extremely hot to 2k RPM, hence when starting in the morning the bike idles at 1k, and when moderately warm settles at 1.2k, and when hot settles at 1.5k.

The oil will drip and sump up, its due to gravity.
But kicking the kicker and pressing the starter has the same effect on the engine, both creates wear and tear(Since 80% of the engines wear happens during starting the engine.). The added damage while causing the kicker is that when not kicked properly, it damages the auto decompressor and as I recall reading in Dan's blog, the new age bikes are'nt meant to be started using the kicker frequently and hence they have a not so sturdy mechanism's that can get damaged easily with constant use.
Another reason why personally I believe the Kicker in the ZMA is not meant to be used in a daily basis, is that its a bike with a DC CDI, and hence not meant to be run entirely mechanically unless in emergency situations.

Go for the Stunner one, it works best for protecting the fairing when dropped. But dont forget to press the mid portion and cut the 'U' clamp.

Carb tuning.

Can somebody direct me to a post where carb tuning for the Karizma is explained? Saw many posts regarding the AFR screw turns (suggested by PSR) previously in this thread. I need some detailed information as to how exactly do it. I want to do it myself. Help is highly appreciated.

Make sure the bike is properly warmed up i.e must have run atleast 10Kms. Then put it in center stand, and then turn the idle RPM to somewhat close to the max position, the idle will be hovering past 6k IIRC, then close the AFR screw completely, and the idle will come down to somewhere close to 2k, but will be fluctuating alot, so open the AFR very gently, till the needle stops fluctuating and remains ROCK solid. Thats your optimum AFR setting.

Stock AFR Pre 2011 - 3.5 Turns.
Stock AFR Post 2011 - 2.25 Turns.
My optimum AFR set using the above methode - 4 Turns.

The pic shown below is of my AFR screw. Note the area marked with a blue marker.

Thanks you. So my bike is 2006 model (pre-R model), means 3.5 turns is ideal if I am right.

A week back I tried to turn the AFR screw, but it didn't. Applied some engine oil on it that day. Will have to check if it turns or still very tight. Any other suggestion to make it turn?

Nope, its the factory setting. And all ZMA's are tuned from factory to be in a very lean state, thats the same reason why my stock setting was 2.25 Turns and my optimum when tuning was 4 Turns. The best way to find your optimum would be to try the methode I've provided in the previous post.

WD40, it as helped many people. And am sure it'd help you as well. Apply WD40 generously and let it be there overnight, after that try turning the AFR screw.

I tried to rotate the AFR screw with a bit of force. The screw moved a little with noise. Seems the groove of the screw head is deformed a bit. Didn't want to continue with more force as it may damage the screw head. Is the screw is a common one to source easy? or is it unique? I am planning to put a new screw.

If it's tight , use WD40 or Zorric and leave it for a few hours and try again . Do not force it . The screw is unique - it'll screw you if you act nasty with it . There's no alternatives you can use . Can you post a pic so that we can see the level of deformity ?

Changed my previous ZMA's screw an year before waited for 2months I got it for 85rs from ASS. Inbetween I used unicorn's it was a bit short in length but there was no air leak. Plugs were brown between 1.5 to 1.75 turns of air screw. FE dropped a 4km. But if you have no choice you can use it. Mine gone missing
from a mech at Tiruppur while he was fixing its broken insulator (manifold).

weird engine behaviour

Hello xbhp...!!! Yesterday while driving on NH4 at 1.10am i stopped my bike to call a friend,as soon as i stopped the bike it started sounding like ignition key is off and engine stopped i ignored it thinking it is time to shift to reserve...but bike was already running on reserve After the call i started to kick start the bike(my battery is weak)and then i felt that kick is so smooth like i am using splendor(usually my bike's kick feels hard n sometime there is sound like some pressured air is realising) so i thought clutch cable has gone(but it was not)i tried for half an hour but in vain then i checked spark plug(it was ok)petrol(ok)then i removed cdi and reconnected and i removed the petrol tube from the the carb let some petrol flow and waited on pitch dark road for another 15 minutes after that i was very optimistic and started kicking the bike with sky high confidence but soon it came to dust i thought something serious has happened to the bike and on other way i was also thinking that kari did not show any signs and how come she is not responding ...while thinking this i kicked the bike and slowly she came to life(like she has just arrived in this world) i was like ...put the gears on and rushed to home in triple digits....but still i am not able to understand strange behaviour of kari...xbhp members will you please throw some light on it