The complete kit including all fibers and body panels would be around 25K's for exact amount ask Aneesh cause he's replaced them all.

And AFAIK Cylinder kit costs 4.3K.

OMG 7k for m45,the reason he is stating this price is because m45 is in great demand and is not available anymore,But 7 k is just ridiculous, Better buy a CEAT vertigo or Sirac Street best option
Are you saying the total cost of Fibre parts i.e Front fairing,visor ,side panels and the parts near tail light will cost 25k ?

+ Fuel Tank also, sorry forgot to mention it. The fuel tank alone costs 7.xK's.

belated wishes to you both.

wet cemented roads and you were above 60? You learned a lesson then.

Ashwin, your first post and then the last are exactly opposite of each other. As PSR Sir said, please take your time.


During paid service, what are the costs involved for:
1. tappet adjustment
2. adjusting valve clearance
3. checking carburetor
4. fork oil change

Both are same bro, regarding Dunlop Monster. They're soft compound and stick like glue, and as wel all know the softer the compound, the faster it wears out.

Are'nt both the above, the same thing? If yes, then it costs Rs.250/- But its better you DIY it or take it to a competent local mech, cause the SVC guys dont use a feeler guage.

Once again DIY, the SVC's have a habit of messing up carbs. They tune it lean with the hopes of gaining mileage.

Well if the SVC is good and competent then you can do the things there. But if you think they will mess up better don't do the bold things i marked at the SVC ( most SVC of hero are good for nothing ).

Take a day off get some tools do it yourself bro . Thats the best thing you could do with valves and the carb .
Or take it to a trusted mech .

Yes me also same opinion, find/search for a good mechanic . Schedule a day for your bike with him. If possible take a day and make sure you are also invovlved when the bike is getting repaired. You yourself must take care about- exact valve/tappet adjustment(i think its .9 mm for both valves), use of correct feeler gauge, exact fork oil volume to be put in each fork.

0.10mm both intake and exhaust.

On my ZMA stock.I tried to install an LED Indicator [ Made myself,4 3V LED in series with one 4E72W Resistor] for the rear indicators.

The Indicators are not blinking ,Its lighting up,Im using Stock Indicator relay.

The Indiacatar relay is not responding went the diode is in the way guess.

can any one help me with this or shall I post this outside ???

The stock indicator relay is load dependent ( even if you put in 4 x 10W bulbs it's character will change) . Buy another relay which is not load dependent . I tried it and it worked . But I forgot the >12 V which comes when the bike starts and thus blew it when I checked it while riding.

Mr.Arun you are yet to give us your user opinion on your 235 upgrade...If you find time for it, please do post the experience.

Thank You acs1207

Sorry I didnt do my homework properly.
Searched a lot for new Splendors Electronic Flasher.
But didnt Find in two HERO ASC in Banglore[Out of stock]
They routed me to JC road. There they have a standard one for all bikes.They tried convincing me it is electric. So got fustrated, drenched in the rain[it doesn't rain much in bang lore]

We to SP road brought a pair of Resistor, relay, NE555 ,Capacitors....
As per


Sat down soldering and few trail and error in 555 Timings...

Finally its working its flasing...Will be posting DIY

Sir , I did post that I was not having much riding due to some factors .

Well , as of today I've crossed 1000 km on the 235 . It's time for another oil change . Which brand do you suggest ? I'm not sure all the brands are available here . Also , I have to tighten all the nuts/bolts after checking whether they've come loose . Then there's the tappet adjustment . Not sure whether I should get it done outside - no one uses the gauge . I'm not comfortable DIYing it since I haven't done it before and don't want to mess it up .Another thing is that the front brake has not been overhauled yet . The kit you sent me was at the mech and I haven't gone to him after the overboring . Also the CBZ silencer (old model) hasn't been modded yet to fit my ZMA . It is still with the mech . He on the other hand is suffering from some allergy to oils and is undergoing treatment . So I'm planning on taking the exhaust to my home town and try to fix it here .
That's the sob story .

The performance of the bike is a definite improvement on the stock ZMA even without the modded exhaust . The mileage's definitely gone down . The power increase is evident from the first move . but it's not 'heart in your mouth' type then . Where it really excels is when the rpm goes higher . Past 5k rpm the power is really evident . Last month I took my niece for a 1 km ride . Together we weighed @ 180 kg ( could be another 10 kg) and I reached 85kmph in a jiffy without the engine straining even a little bit . The pick up was smooth and if you are in a hurry you just have to keep it in the power band . Even in top gear and medium speeds the torque is there but if I want to move in a hurry I must shift down .
One small problem is that occasionally when I press the starter button ( regardless of whether it is a cold start or not) I hear a "thud" sound . My feeling is that it sounds like the piston is hitting the valve . It's there in only one of 10 or 15 starts .
My opinion is the mod is do-able without much risk . And if any one wants to attempt it I'll try to give the best support I can . It's not that expensive or complicated (if one is slightly techie ) and the result is rewarding . The main thing is that the only thing changed is the piston and the piston rings . The work done is to the cylinder, head , valve seats and gaskets . In short , the bike is still OE/stock except for the piston and piston rings .

The disclaimer should be there - I did it and got it ( I hope) right - it doesn't mean you can have it as I did - it may be better or worse . Any one attempting the mod would be doing so at their own risk and I won't be responsible for wrecking or hyper-charging their ZMA .
Another DIY . Please do post how it's done in detail , if possible with snaps .
THe ASC is not required for the flasher . A known company's flasher will do . Mine's by a company called Swiss .

Thanks @acs for detailed reply. There does not seem to be any issues so far due to the work you have done..The thud sound cannot be valves touching the piston..because one touch is enough to spoil everything....may be your starter clutch engages late sometimes...just a guess.
It is good to see positive result ,since you took the risk and things have worked out well for you.

+ A Million Sir, I've started the habit of pressing the starter for extended periods till the bike idles properly i.e in short I dont let go of the starter untill the bikes stable, be it starting after one day or one week. For a few months the usual cranking sound was heard, but recently after cranking for a few secs there's a thud, and then the cranking starts again, the bike still starts and all, but after cranking for a few secs it pauses with a thud for a micro second and then regains cranking. Guess this supports the wearing out theory.