I'm not tempting but suggesting here. Order the body kit and buy them at your own pace. Doing a good engine job should alway complement with decent body kit, it's my personal opinion.

Some one had posted of nylon washers on this forum for the fairing. Could not remember who it was. Add them to your fairing mount screws might help further reducing the vibration.

Mine around 2k IIRC.


HH SVC's stopped providing OS pistons.

Since psrji and other senior members have expressed their opinion then i just will help you to do a better job.
1.As i have told you in my previous post the head has carbon so was knocking.From my experience any four stroke bike after 30k if starts to knock that means its head is carbon-ed.
2. Your carburettor shows excess blow-by. Clean the carburettor. Also check the inlet rocker, as psrji has said it is closing the inlet valve abruptly.Better to change rocker as if you will not change there will be slight tappet sound even if tappets are perfectly set.
3. Open the bore and check if the bore is worn. Because from the picture i see the lower portion of piston is wet. If you open the bore always change the rings. Never continue with the same ring.
4. If bore is worn then you can re-bore and regarding UN-availability of OE oversize piston go for USHA oversize piston. You can get it at piston shops which store all the pistons of various bikes. Usha pistons are semi-forged and also contains 11% silicon which prevents piston expanding on heating and thus prevents engine seizure.
5. Skf cone-set - I am using the same and will tell you they are best and will last twice the OE set. After all SKF are leaders in bearings.
6. You are running rich. How do i know. Simple your exhaust valve tells that you are running rich. For a perfectly tuned engine the color of exhaust valve will be red, engine running lean will be white and engine running rich will be black.Open any FI engine and there exhaust valve will be red.
Here is a photo of my joy exhaust valve:-

Even see the piston. The carbon is slightly red in color:-

see the head needs to be cleaned like this:-

Do the above work and your bike will run for another 50k without any problem. After head cleaning your bike will run like a new bike.
After setting the air fuel screw ride for 1k and again set AFR. It is because as the piston has light carbon after 1k your compression will increase so need for re-tuning.
Any four stroke bike if after 25-30k starts knocking then it indicates that you head requires manual cleaning.This i am stating from my experience.
Regarding setting your crack panel do not use m-seal use bon-tite uniweld they will never crack and also they will last long. Setting time is approx. 4 mins and once set will never break at the joint.
AUTOMOBILE ADHESIVES
Resinova has all adhesives for automobiles. You can see on their sites.

Thank you Sibun for your inputs.

Unfortunately, we are not able to do any work today. Morning we opened the piston and the bore. The piston rings showed leakage. There were slight scratches in the bore as well as the piston, and my mechanic said its okay for a bike that ran for 51k. Checked the connecting rod and I found a little play of less than 1 mm. We decided to just change the piston rings and the piston pin.

Piston and the rings immediately after opened..



Bore showing minor scratches from two angles. The scratches are uniform throughout the bore.





Side of the piston after its cleaned.



Rockers arms after cleaned



It was the most hectic day for me and got a taste of severe shortage of spares of Karizma. Never thought the engine parts of Karizma are so rare to find. My mechanic while taking out the valve locks, lost one of the four somewhere, as they flew in air and fell apart. I decided to change the cam chain and rocker arms, to be on safe side, and to keep my mind at peace. In the morning I went out to hunt the spares. I have roamed the entire city and checked at all the famous Hero service centers. I got a 'NO' answer everywhere. After a lot of requests and using known mechanics, I was able to source some valve locks, rocker arms, and cam chian. Sadly, I was not able to find the AFR screw anywhere. It became evening by the time I got all the spares except the AFR screw. The evening rain multiplied my frustration I am literally shocked to see no AFR screw anywhere in Hyderabad.

In the evening, we found the cam chain guides to be stiff and rigid and almost braking when bent slightly. We needed to change them, but we couldn't find them too. So work is completely stopped. I guess I can source the cam chain guides easily tomorrow. But, no idea about the AFR screw.

I was literally shocked to see a small metal piece (just one piece) priced at 89 rupees. Its made in Japan.



The cowl mounts at the tank. You can see the broken joints of the cowls. These cowls are not in stock anywhere. Need to do some juggad to fix them.





The last time when I fitted cowls, I generously applied m-seal at every joint to strengthen them. Seems they stood well against the falls. Seems I didn't apply the m-seal at the tank joints, and now they broke.

Chain never fouls, its always the sprockets to be blamed.
So better change the timing sprockets as well.

Ravi you have to place the first piston ring(top) inside the bore, and check if there is excess gap at the end of the ring ends...the closer the ends the better...also place the present piston WITHOUT rings inside the bore ,and check slap against the bore. make the observation at bottom of bore and at top of bore...If it rattles and shake is more,when you try to shake piston from side to side,, then you need to do a rebore.Ask the Mech to do this test and see...He should be knowing about it.

Sir, just checked. Piston sliding nicely. I am posting a pic of the bore with piston ring.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

Traces of petrol in the Air Filter Box. Been having this for some time. Is this normal?
Model - Karizma-R 2007 43k

Its not petrol; its engine oil.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

Could you explain?

The crank case breather is connected to the air filter box, so if by chance you fill excess oil, then it'll be blown into the air filter box. Its completely normal.

@Ravi - I'm sending you this...

Thanks.

Sriram, I highly appreciate your help. Its like getting 'amrutham' when I am too thirsty.

The work has not progressed even today. Facing lots of hurdles. Found the cam chain guides to be brittle and peeling off. After lot of difficulty got them from a local automobile shop, and after sometime found that one guide was not of Karizma's. I was like completely pissed off at that time. Luckily a friend of mine was able to find them in city and he was generous enough to ride 15 kms in traffic in afternoon to give them to me. The mechanic promised me he will not do any work except mine tomorrow. Hopefully my bike will be up and running by tomorrow.

I am planning to put Veedol Takeoff 20w40 for time being, and change the oil at 200 kms. At that time we will open the clutch case and see the condition of clutch plates, clutch bell, and its rubbers.

Also, as I don't have original AFR screw, I am planning to use some aftermarket AFR screw, meant for karizma, for the the time being, and replace it with original one when I get it in 2-3 days.