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**harishsangwan** · 05-13-2012, 12:18 AM

Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post

http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/do-yours...ng-rtr180.html. There you go. Its RTR, but the procedure is same.

Was hoping that I wouldnt be reminded about the same thread again. I have gone through 2-3 DIY threads but had specific doubts which I wanted to clear.

**psr** · 05-13-2012, 09:54 AM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

Hey guys..need your help with brake fluid replacement in my bike.

I got the bike serviced, which included disc pad replacement. But the brakes feel kinda spongy so have decided to bleed the brake fluid myself. The mechanic did say that he changed the brake fluid too but the fluid level is close to the 'lower' mark on master cylinder.

Will now be bleeding and replacing the brake fluid. But had a few doubts:
1. How much quantity of brake fluid does Karizma need? The old model.
2. Can I clean the master cylinder with a damp cloth?
3. Any particular brand that you suggest?

1. The Master cylinder will hold about 30ml...the lines and Caliper about 60ml.
2. The first enemy for any hydraulic system is water/water vapor.so don't even think of bringing dampness any where near the brake active system.
3. Brand for what ? I presume brake fluid...and my answer is any DOT 4 fluid of reputed manufacturer will do. I use TVS Girling..you also have choice of Motul, Shell etc.,
Since you are bleeding the system and refilling it, go for Dot 4 as it is superior

**psr** · 05-13-2012, 02:32 PM

To day changed the engine oil from Valvoline 20w40 mineral to Valvoline 10w30 Synthetic..drove for only 20 Kms and initial impression...

1. Engine starts easily
2. Initially engine seemed to be very noisy.
3. Bike could easily roll on in 1st gear without acceleration at 1250 RPM.
4. Acceleration seem slower, but bike is reaching 60Kmph easily.
5. After 5 Kms my Ears seemed to have become dull

couldn't hear the engine much
6. With 20w40 while accelerating in most gears could hear the engine growl, but now that is missing...
7. Did 90 Kmph for 2 kms , and bike was smooth and had no harshness...
8. Engine heat was marginally higher..or is it my imagination ? could only make subjective assumption..

Next observation share will be after 300~400 Kms use...

**harishsangwan** · 05-13-2012, 03:11 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

1. The Master cylinder will hold about 30ml...the lines and Caliper about 60ml.
2. The first enemy for any hydraulic system is water/water vapor.so don't even think of bringing dampness any where near the brake active system.
3. Brand for what ? I presume brake fluid...and my answer is any DOT 4 fluid of reputed manufacturer will do. I use TVS Girling..you also have choice of Motul, Shell etc.,
Since you are bleeding the system and refilling it, go for Dot 4 as it is superior

Thanks for the reply...
As for cleaning, can use a normal dry cloth to clean the master cylinder?

Also, I could only find Bosch Dot 4 brake fluid near my place, bought it. Will try to change it today.

UPDATE:Got all set to start the bleeding process and hit a obstacle right away. The bleeding nut is too tight and refuses to loosen up even a bit.

**sunny_** · 05-13-2012, 05:47 PM

Elf Moto 4 Gold 20w40

Lot of problems, rough rides...What next?
So to start with, went away straight to a local shop near City Centre and asked for Motul 20w40 but it was out of stock there, shopkeeper suggested Elf Moto 4 Gold, bought it for Rs 260 (don't remember it was a 900ml bottle or a litre bottle, because was in a hurry: was about to leave for a night ride), was running in reserve so filled the tank with 14.3 litres of normal petrol (Rs 70.04 per litre, total Rs 1000)

Similar experience as with the Motul 20w40, smooth gear shifts and smoother engine...but engine revs better in low to mid range than in higher rpms, where it feels a bit sluggish. Although was feeling a good push going beyond 4.5k rpm reminding me of earlier days. Engine was cool throughout the 100+ kms of high speed ride on the Calcutta-Bombay NH6.

One problem, the bike's front part seem unbalanced sometimes (not always), feel like the tyre has no air or what because the handle bar seems tougher to bend, although not so serious but want to cure it at the beginning... Fork or cone set issues??

**shhbz** · 05-13-2012, 06:10 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

Lot of problems, rough rides...What next?
So to start with, went away straight to a local shop near City Centre and asked for Motul 20w40 but it was out of stock there, shopkeeper suggested Elf Moto 4 Gold, bought it for Rs 260 (don't remember it was a 900ml bottle or a litre bottle, because was in a hurry: was about to leave for a night ride), was running in reserve so filled the tank with 14.3 litres of normal petrol (Rs 70.04 per litre, total Rs 1000)

Similar experience as with the Motul 20w40, smooth gear shifts and smoother engine...but engine revs better in low to mid range than in higher rpms, where it feels a bit sluggish. Although was feeling a good push going beyond 4.5k rpm reminding me of earlier days. Engine was cool throughout the 100+ kms of high speed ride on the Calcutta-Bombay NH6.

One problem, the bike's front part seem unbalanced sometimes (not always), feel like the tyre has no air or what because the handle bar seems tougher to bend, although not so serious but want to cure it at the beginning... Fork or cone set issues??

me too found the motul to be good and nowadays elf is promoting their oil a lot, still this time will try the gulf but surely for motul was the best experience till date.

tday went to the oil store and saw a lot of option coming in like valvoline,elf as earlier these were not available in my locality ,they showed me a chart from castrol and it was recommnded that to use 10w30 for karizma-r

**psr** · 05-13-2012, 07:33 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

Thanks for the reply...
As for cleaning, can use a normal dry cloth to clean the master cylinder?

Also, I could only find Bosch Dot 4 brake fluid near my place, bought it. Will try to change it today.

UPDATE:Got all set to start the bleeding process and hit a obstacle right away. The bleeding nut is too tight and refuses to loosen up even a bit.

For loosening the Brake Bleed nut use 8mm BOX spanner and handle to loosen it...while tightening use 8mm normal spanner.

**harishsangwan** · 05-13-2012, 08:22 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

For loosening the Brake Bleed nut use 8mm BOX spanner and handle to loosen it...while tightening use 8mm normal spanner.

Bought a ring spanner and finished the bleeding...but not sure if it worked the way I expected it to *headscratching*

I mean, the brake lever was feeling very soft and thought maybe it was due air lock or something so did bleeding but its still feels the same. This was after I got the brake pads changed from a mechanic.
But then I havent ridden after the bleeding, not sure if it would be any different.

**psr** · 05-13-2012, 08:42 PM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

Bought a ring spanner and finished the bleeding...but not sure if it worked the way I expected it to *headscratching*

I mean, the brake lever was feeling very soft and thought maybe it was due air lock or something so did bleeding but its still feels the same. This was after I got the brake pads changed from a mechanic.
But then I havent ridden after the bleeding, not sure if it would be any different.

did you have the sponginess after the pad change only, or had it before that also.? If it was before the change of pads then you need to do a bleed and fill with fresh oil, if it is after the pad change, it is because of the new pads not making 100% contact,which will happen after 100~200 Kms of city riding only, and the sponginess will go away progressively

**acs1207** · 05-13-2012, 09:36 PM

Originally posted by sunny_ View Post

One problem, the bike's front part seem unbalanced sometimes (not always), feel like the tyre has no air or what because the handle bar seems tougher to bend, although not so serious but want to cure it at the beginning... Fork or cone set issues??

Is the 'unbalancing' there even when the petrol tank is near empty ? The additional weight of 14 liters (@ 14 kg) will do some unsettling to the front end especially when the bike is leaning or over rough roads .

**harishsangwan** · 05-13-2012, 09:59 PM

Originally posted by psr View Post

did you have the sponginess after the pad change only, or had it before that also.? If it was before the change of pads then you need to do a bleed and fill with fresh oil, if it is after the pad change, it is because of the new pads not making 100% contact,which will happen after 100~200 Kms of city riding only, and the sponginess will go away progressively

The sponginess was after the pads were changed but then I have already clocked about 400kms after the change out of which about 150-200kms is in the city so not sure whats wrong. Will wait for another 100kms and see how it feels.

**AshMj** · 05-14-2012, 01:00 AM

Originally posted by harishsangwan View Post

The sponginess was after the pads were changed but then I have already clocked about 400kms after the change out of which about 150-200kms is in the city so not sure whats wrong. Will wait for another 100kms and see how it feels.

me too had sponginess in the hydraulic brakes when i changed the disc pads in my kari but it has gone away after i rode 25kms in which i only used front brakes hardly(well... of course with precautions ).....try panic breaking...hydraulics are more sensitive but important part in the kari...do not play with it get it checked by professional and trained mech....Happy and Safe Riding

**ashwinprakas** · 05-14-2012, 09:52 PM

One of my ZMA's brake lights went kaput, I.e when pilots are on they both
light up, but when brakes applies only one of them brightens up and the other remains dim. And have heard users complaining that if one light alone is replaced then the other might blow out, so wondering whether I should replace both together or go ahead and replace only the blown one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

**acs1207** · 05-15-2012, 01:28 AM

Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post

One of my ZMA's brake lights went kaput, I.e when pilots are on they both
light up, but when brakes applies only one of them brightens up and the other remains dim. And have heard users complaining that if one light alone is replaced then the other might blow out, so wondering whether I should replace both together or go ahead and replace only the blown one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Guess u can replace just one . If u want , u can change the position of the old bulb to confuse the bike's brain !!!

After all , in the search of truth u can sacrifice the cost of a couple of tail bulbs !!!

**sunny_** · 05-15-2012, 01:30 AM

Originally posted by acs1207 View Post

Is the 'unbalancing' there even when the petrol tank is near empty ? The additional weight of 14 liters (@ 14 kg) will do some unsettling to the front end especially when the bike is leaning or over rough roads .

Sir, nice to read about your mod, more details please.
And, this 'unbalancing' thing was never felt earlier no matter tank is full or near empty, but feeling it at times(random) since past few hundred kms.

Originally posted by shhbz View Post

me too found the motul to be good and nowadays elf is promoting their oil a lot, still this time will try the gulf but surely for motul was the best experience till date.

tday went to the oil store and saw a lot of option coming in like valvoline,elf as earlier these were not available in my locality ,they showed me a chart from castrol and it was recommnded that to use 10w30 for karizma-r

Yeah quite true.
Pretty satisfied with the Elf now, bike did 130kph on the speedo constantly with a pillion, 140kph on the speedo when riding single...Low-range and mid-range is back in its early days of initial 10,000kms.

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