Re: Karizma/Karizma R

If it's the AFR screw that fell off then you might have lost the spring that should be there . See pic - the spring is of steel color .

The idling screw is also spring loaded , but the spring can be seen since it is outside .



Pls don't mind the shape of the screw in the pic - it's from a damaged carb .

Re: Karizma/Karizma R


Yeah its idling screw. Depressing man, to mess it up myself. @AK3D, thanks man, it's the Sunday project, hopefully wont have to take it to the svc center.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Oops....


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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Tank & silencer painted and old stickers replaced with new R stickers. And also change 60/55 headlight blub to OSRAM nightbreaker 60/55 & parking light with LED SMD







This sliver plastic panel had some scratches so pasted black vinyl sticker afterwards premium sports sticker




LED 20 SMD

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

I have ridden a my ZMA a couple of times in the rain... but i have never been experimental in rain... i always kept myself in the safer side.... i rode my friends pulsar 150 rigorously...with the same MRF zapper tyre the pulsar tends to skid or fishtail frequently... which i experienced with my ZMA hardly a few times....i am not saying the stock tyres are the best ones; but its not much inferior so that a ZMA cant be ridden on it... ofcourse a premium tyre will always have an edge over the stock ones....what i told its just for sane riding conditions ...

yes.. with highspeed above 70kmph on any surface stock tyre doesn't give enough confidence on panicbreaking...i don't have too much of biking experience like you veterans; i always get amazed by reading all your great inputs into this forum .... i just shared my opinion with all my sane riding experience... it was never intended to impose incorrect information...

practically it is not feasible to hit the pump every-time you have a pillion .. and again change the air pressure to solo mode. thats why i keep it always 25/33 and hardly faced any issue with sane riding (its not like i always ride within 60kmph.. i go beyond 100kmph also.. but i increase it gradually..).. with the same air pressure i rode my ZMA at 125kmph on highway...dint find any hiccups ..

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The Spark Plug cap and the ignition wire are available separately.....If the Ignition wire is faulty change only the wire and not the whole ignition coil with the wire.....You can get the Ignition wire from the Bike Spare parts shops, or you can also buy Old ambassador or Fiat's ignition wire , which is without resistance...Both the Ignition Coil and the Plug cap have screw like connection, so you can fix the new Ignition wire by pressing the wire into the connection and turning the wire clockwise ...this will thread the wire on to the connection firmly....
For better performance, try and get the plug cap without resistor, since the ZMA/ZR plugs have built in resistor....I had sourced a Red colored plug cap without resistor, which is giving a slightly better acceleration...

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

How do I check if the wire or coil is faulty?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

The Wire or Ignition Coil in a ZMA/ZMR had never been reported to be faulty....the wire is a straight through non resistive wire.. To check both the wire and the coil at the same time, disconnect the Spark plug cap from Ignition wire , and measure the Resistance from the center of Ignition wire to earth ie., body or negative of Battery.... The meter should show 9K~10 K Ohms..

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=52772]AK3D[/MENTION]

I guess you'll need to experiment with 110 profile for your rear wheel. M45 which was so good and as you know in India no one like anything so good that even this Michelin rubber curbed by tyre lobbies saying there no Indian certification.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

psr sir , we do learn new things every day . Some doubts here . Are there ignition wires ( guess they are the ones called spark plug cable ) coming in 2 types - with resistance and without resistance ? If yes , what type is normally used in ZMA ?
Also , generally , why is the resistor used in the plug cap ?


Off topic , can someone identify this moped ? No name is seen on the body panels . There's an "M" logo on the tank . My friend got it a couple of days back . He plans to make it ride able .

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

[MENTION=39423]acs1207[/MENTION], just post this moped pic in powertrain muthu sir thread, might give some history.

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Re: Karizma/Karizma R

There are two types of Ignition wire,Plug Cap, and Spark Plugs......With and Without resistor....
In the days of Carburetor engine, interference from spark energy called "RFI"(Radio Frequency Interference) did not affect anything, except the on board radio, which would have a clicking sound in tune with sparks...Later on when " MPFi" came on with SMD(Surface mount Device) and Microprocessor in circuit, this RFI used to interfere with the Ignition and Injector timing..This is because the devices are sensitive to RFI...
So to reduce the interference from spark energy, the designers and manufacturers decide to reduce the intensity of spark energy by reducing it's current...to do this they introduced a Resistor of 4~5 K ohms in series with the High voltage..this had the desired effect and so it became an industry standard....some manufactures introduced the resistor in the Ignition wire by using resistive wire, and some through resistor in Plug cap....In the mean time a large number of Vehicles used CDI ignition system and this would give high energy sparks of short duration...This in effect started pitting the Spark Plug electrodes...So the Plug manufacturers started using 4~5 K Ohms resistor inside the plug to protect the electrodes against pitting.....So we now have a resistor in the wire, a resistor in the plug cap, and a resistor in the Spark plug..All this combined to reduce the spark energy ....some car manufacturers got wise to this and used normal plugs, with resistive Wires....but some manufacturer continued to use a combination of the three.....
Initially engines came with resistor cable only, and later on when the Spark Plug manufacturer PHASED OUT non resistor plugs, the resistor plugs were used as an alternate...
So in ZMA/ZMR there is a resistive Plug cap and a resistor in Plug...but the Ignition Cable is NON RESISTANCE type....
So it is obvious that there are two resistor in series with spark in ZMA/ZMR and reduces the energy more than required....It IS ENOUGH TO HAVE ONE RESISTOR IN CIRCUIT, and more than one reduces the spark energy drastically....

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

My friend had a similar one, it was called 'MOFA' maybe the 'M' stands for that.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Did a short trip to Alamparai fort with collegmates(230kms). There were 8 bikes, P150, 3 P220's, FZ16, P200NS, KTM Duke 200 and my ZMA. I led the group most of the time. Later during a break one of the P220 guy was telling how it was difficult to catch up when I accelerated hard from 80 upto 120kmph. Anyways after 120 zma runs out of breath but until there its quick. I realized this today after being able to directly compare these bikes. And needless to say most of them had to live through vibrations except me since we were doing 90-100 most of the time and some of them were asking me to slow down. By the way its been 1300kms since Rimula and looks like its still doing a good job. Will see the colour and update soon.

I do have small niggle with the gearbox though. First gear doesn't engage easily(especially in stop and go traffic). The neutral light doesn't glow sometimes when the gear lever is in neutral position. But with a little extra touch the light glows. Looks like a problem at the contact point of the switch.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R

Please change Rimula R4 oil after it had done 1,500~1,700 Kms since it is Mineral oil....Regarding difficulty in changing gears, check for clutch free play and adjust to 5mm at the lever edge with the yoke.....the Neutral switch plate does give problem now and then..correcting it requires splitting the crank case...