Thats an extremely worn out tyre... the R15 has soft compound tyres, general life between 9000-12000 kms. You have gone well over that, and a service guy telling you 35k is still hung up on normal tyres. Change the tyre ASAP!

That is not entirely true my friend.
Yes the tyres are made of soft compound so their life is some where around between 15K-20K. BTW, a lot depends upon your riding style as well, mine lasted for 45K

Hello everyone , This is my first post but i was following this thread from months back . I own a r15 yellow and it has done around 38**kms . Some days back my rear rim cracked Reason - high speed on pot hole ! i will upload the picture soon . when the mechanic removed my rear rim he noticed that my rear brake pad was completely worn out .

now my question is -

1. Will rear brake pad completely worn out at or around 38**kms ?
2. if so, what is the cost of replacement ?
3. Is there any particular brand or quality while buying brake pad cause i want the same bite when it cam from showroom .

thanks in advance , i hope i didnt ask too much questions .

Dude, sad to hear that your rim is cracked!

Yeah, there are chances to worn out rear brakes during the rainy season and so far it depends on your riding style! I can guess that you use rear brakes more than front! If so, try to use front brakes more than rear mostly in normal riding conditions. Oh yeah, don't forget to clean and wash both brake pads and discs after riding in RAIN!!!

Prices (INR):
Front brake pads: Old price Rs.685, New price Rs.390.
Rear brake pads: Old price Rs.1115, New price Rs.690

From the lever end. I suspected it was at the end of its life when I went there for washing etc. on Friday itself, but my mech. was confident the cable still has life left in it.
My hunch turned out true!

Clutchless shifting was not an issue at all. There was an open road, just 1.5kms.away from my office where I could have taken it straight to office, but didn't wanna take the risk, so I took the help of a guy on a Passion. He rode his bike&pushed mine with his leg on the rear footrest.
I reached office&dumped the bike in the basement. Mechanic came in the afternoon&was done in 10mins.
Only the LHS plastic near the speedo needs to be removed, not the side fairing.

Isuues in my R15

I bought my R15 in jan 2011. It has done 4000kms. Last week i gave my bike for servicing and after that m facing a problem.
After riding few kms wenever i approach red light i keep my bike in idle, suddenly my bikes engine stops and does not respond even if i press the start button a few times, then i try to give it a jump start it does not start. After few efforts it eventually starts.
This happened 5-6 times, i really dont know is this normal? if not plz help m worried.

Buddies,
I was planning to put some anti-puncture liquid on the rear Tyre, but before this, I just faced the puncture! Now, Please tell me, can I go for anti-puncture liquid right now or I should first seal the puncture? BTW, I saw the nail on the rear wheel during washing and removed it! The hole is too small and I am loosing pressure gradually! Please ADVISE ASAP!

^^ you'll have to fix the puncture.

and next time... don't pull the nail out.

you won't lose as much pressure if u keep it in.

guys, I know it has been discussed many times.. but getting conflicting information

for chain cleaning and lubing.

Lube-bought Motul chain Lube.

looking for some cheaper alternative than Motul chain clean at 450 bucks .

For cleaning, can we use Kerosene.
I read engine Oil, Petrol, diesel will damage the chain.

You can use WD40 for CLEANING ONLY or Zorrick...
both of em are cheap, cost around 220rs for 500ml of can.
They are perfect for cleaning, but ensure that you lube the chain after using these two cans. Yes, Motul is costly, 450 is not worth as you can achieve the same effects with the use of WD40 or Zorrick...
Yes you can use kerosene but then you need to brush your chain which is time consuming and messy too....
instead get it cleaned through above mentioned aerosols.

^^^ Not true... this is a topic that has been discussed umpteen number of times on this thread... the fact is that the chain is an 'O' ring chain i.e. a factory sealed lube is present between the pin, bushing and the roller of EACH link. This lube is sealed with the 'O' rings and is made to last the life time of the chain. Hence, there is no need for lubrication between the pins, bushings and the rollers of the chain.

What is in need of lubrication is the plates, sprockets and the 'O' rings itself (where it is in contact with the plates). The lubrication is also required to prevent rusting.

Now coming to the cleaning part... some types of kerosenes have a degrading effect on the 'O' rings and therefore are not the recommended method to clean by the chain manufactures. Secondly, kerosene and especially cleaners such as WD40 leave a very fine and thin film which inhabits the ability of the chain lube to attach itself to the chain surfaces. The fact remains that while a can of chain cleaner may seem expensive it is wise investment for a longer lasting chain and sprockets, which certainly cost more than a can of chain cleaner.

Thank you for your reply .
As you have mentioned the price's of brake pad, I DID see difference in new and old price .
1. Is there any quality and braking difference between the old and new ?

Hey guys i rode my 1.3k kms old r15 in very harsh conditions and i experienced some problems which i would like to share and would like to get some insights by fellow riders...
I rode it for about 25 kms in full on "kaccha road" which was full of round stones and you have to ride on them.
I was with a pillion and the bike was dancing all over. The control of this bike is really dreadful in offroading conditions.
Anyhow after the ride the sound of my bike changed completely. I can now distictly hear strokes from exhaust unlike before.
Rear makes "tak" sound when it hits small patches in road.
I've lost confidence in bending the bike due to poor performance of the rear suspension.
My front wheel had a puncture.
So i gave my bike for an early free service at 1400 kms and told my problems to the mech.
He said he has fixed everything but the puncture as its to small to be detected. He tightened the chain, changed oil, checked the suspension and about the sound he said it was quite normal.
But the thing is, i still feel its lacking its punch. Also the ride is much less refined. Plus the "tak" sound is still there.
What do you think could be the problem?
Also about the puncture he said to get "injection" or something like that. He said for treating minor punctures the introduce a liquid into the tire which seals off the puchtures from within and its the only solution for my case. It costs 1400/- for both tyres and is a permanent remedy for minor puchtures. I refused as i need to investigate more about this. So has anyone heard about something like this?
Also i am getting along by filling up air every 3 days. Is it true that minor puchtures are hard to get rid of in tubeless tyres?
If you made it this far, a big Thank You for reading my looooong post. Any comments will be welcome....

M waiting for a reply

^^ Check for loose connections, and the idle screw is properly fitted on the right hand side.