I mean, its more theoretical right? Have ppl tried it out? If yes, then no other choice than to wait.

No crash bobbins available. No provision either.

PS: The fairing isn't really costly. You'll be surprised that the complete fibre parts on the R15's body can be bought for about Rs 2500. Side panels cost about Rs 560 each - most expensive of the pieces.

The tyres are in short supply. As usual, I made an advance purchase of one set for Rs 3100. One day back he quoted Rs 3000 but by the time I went he had one last piece - the front tyre. The rear, he had to get it from another shop who quoted me Rs 1800 for it and give to me at Rs 1700. Checked at various dealers. Whether they had stock or not, the price quoted was higher than what I bought them for.

The stock tyres are so good that we don't want to change them. The tyres, brakes and most important - the chassis is an amazing package.

Many tried a change - mostly upsize. Many were happy. Many more complained about the loss of flick-ability even with IRC track tyres when upsized. The chassis & suspension hold the tyres to the road - that's a great benefit. Don't easily find the loss of grip.

At 10.5K RPM in 5th gear the R15 does about 127 KMPH. At 7K RPM in 6th it does a 100 KMPH. Are you sure your speed is dropping so much upon shifting from 5th to 6th? I don't think so.

Another way is - may be you are trying to push the bike in the 6th gear from say 80 or 90 KMPH itself. Then the reasons can be many. You've got in a 15W50 oil that too just at the first service. Your engine has not opened up yet. We've seen that R15's typically open up between 5-6K KMs and are pretty tight uptill 3K KMs. That might be adding up to the reason why your bike doesn't cross 7K RPM. But my bike used to reach 8K RPM in 6th gear when new. There can be more factors in - how uch do you weigh? how strong is the wind? are the tyres properly inflated?

thanks......
now exploring every aspect of the bike....
enjoying it on every drive.........like people gazing it!!!( the way i used to)....
but with shoulder pain which would eventually vanish as i put on more kilometers....

I wanted to ask that there's bit of vibration when the bike is in neutral. but as soon as i put it in 1st gear, the vibration reduces.!!

Personally I've i hit 109kph in 4th at redline. 131kph in 5th at redline and have managed the best of 145kph on a decline in 6th. These speeds are speedo indicative and donot represent the true speed of the bike. Also please not that the R15 tacho shows 498rpms more at redline. The engine revs upto only 10002rpm as accurately measured by our Joel at an earlier occasion. I have so far never hit the redline causing misfire in 6th. And if the bike hits redline fully in 6th. It would show about 150-151 on speedo! Which is a true 140-141kph

Let your bike run a few thousand kms more. My bike's run almost 10000kms now and the performance is better than it was when the bike was new!

And i run 15w 40 Castrol Semi-Synth currently. Have used yamalube 20w 40. Bike runs smoother with Castrol but the performance otherwise is much the same! Bike leaves its competition wayy behind.

hey is there any measurement of how tight or loose the chain should be ?

I'd seen an maroon R15 with a FZ16 rear mag, tyre and swingarm...
in Kharghar, New Bombay.

The guy had added on the R15 rear disc setup onto the FZ16 mag.

asked him if there was any difference with regard to handling/cornering...
he said he didn't have any issues.

asked him if i could ride it n check it out for myself... then he suddenly realized that he "had to be somewhere."

Some people show the truth through their behaviour insted of telling!!!
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Faced this issue once, the needle was stuck at 7k rpm. Try slowing down and letting the revs drop and then go up the gears. Worked for me. Never faced it since, dont know the reason for it either.

By the way, what is your opinion about Motul 5100 engine oil? should I stick on this for next service or should I go for fully Synthetic engine oil?

Motul5100 is a good oil. I've got a lot of recommendation myself for the same oil. My friends use it and they are happy. Personally i stick to Castrol/Yamalube20w40 because they work for me and they are easier on my pocket. Maybe i will test out the 5100 in the near future or the yamalube 15w50 which is again good oil. You can go in for fully synthetic. Opinions vary but i donot see much use for full synth. As there's hardly any noticeable difference in performance or any given parameters. The only suggestion i would give you is what i give myself. Go with whatever works for you best! If your current setup gives you the best performance go with it. It will save you the trouble of experimenting.

OK, I will stick with this engine oil until I will not face any issue (till now my pocket is allow me to spend some 200 extra money on it )

Thanks again

You are mostly not sitting in proper riding position. Shoulders should not pain unless you are sitting in with hands straight, shoulder up and weight on hands - and that is not the way to ride this bike.

a play of 20 CM to 40CM is the range. Pls check the manual. it is written there.

Yes, with the R15, there isn't much noticeable difference between using the mineral Yamalube and a Fully Synthetic oil.

Check whether the vibration reduces if you depress the clutch lever in neutral when the bike is idling. If so clutch bell could be an issue

happy diwali to XBHP family.......

Same thing happened me while riding my bike on NH-8 between baroda and surat.. tacho refused to budge beyond 8K in 6th gear...whereas red-lining in all lower gears. While coming back toward baroda the bike easily touched 10k+ with speed around 139 kmph..(on speedo)

My conclusion.......culprit were heavy cross-winds while heading southwards...