Sorry buddy a typo error. Read it as OCt 2008.

Yes i had also planned to do the same. But i had planned to upgrade the rear drums to disc after some 10k and this thing happened when i had completed around 7.5k Km on that...

Yes i can understand your side of the argument because where i live, tarmac is literally non-existent for nearly two to three kilometers from my house, people from Chennai would know how bad the interior of Porur is, but still it all depends on how you handle the bike, in loose surfaces i would first cut down to a lower gear and then start braking.
I had read about this technique years ago in an Auto magazine which has proved to be essential, try braking with a progressive feel rather than slamming the brakes, irrespective of the urgency. I cannot tell you how to do this, it's something you have to get comfortable doing, and while braking hard go to the point where the wheel is almost about to lock and then let go progressively, try modulating your braking by constantly braking at different levels and try to get a feel for what the bike is doing at these times. It is of my opinion that braking is more important than being able to go fast, and for this the front discs on the 200 are nothing short of brilliant, you can literally stand on the front brake and navigate through obstacles if you know how to use them

Ya front disc no doubt is pretty sharp and pretty confident to bring the bike to halt just on its own capability.
You can apply brakes progressively when you have some distance (maybe some 50m or something like that) but progressive braking on a distance of 2m is surely a tough thing to ask for...
But still don't you think that rear brake is something that should be more sharp in both P200 (though now its off the road) and new P220 (I have heard that new P220 also doesnt have effective rear disc though havent tried that till now). When i compare rear disc of R15 and P220 you can really feel the difference. I came down from 126kmph to stand still on R15 in a distance where in i myself had lost hope that i would be able to halt. Its not about how fast you go and then come to halt but just about the responsiveness of the brakes.
P220 has a rear disc but still it lags that bite. Just not able to convince myself how the bikes were designed neglecting the basics of bike stopping... Its just in the last one yr that i've traveled a lot on bikes and got to know about them...

It just means you were riding way faster than the surrounding situations allowed!!! Rear braking is intentionally made a bit loose to prevent the rear tyre from skidding.

True, both times (my previous accidents) the road was peppered with pot-holes and sand/gravel. It is not about why one is riding fast, or where..... question is, what is the point in having rear-BRAKES, if they don't help when needed (this may raise a few eye-brows but I am trying to make a point here)....My first accident was a judgemental error, and to an extent was due to a stupid govt Bus driver. The second accident was purely because of an on-coming nut-case of a cab driver.

I guess the point here is, is there a way of improving the rear-brakes on the P-200?

I agree that rear braking is meant to be loose but not that loose to have no affect while de-accelarating. I was in the rightmost lane and was driving around 50kmph when a cab changed its lane to first and applied brakes suddenly. So its not about the surroundings or the speed limit. It drills down to the brake response.
I have tried the same with R15 and it's response is just superb. The same when did on P220 it stands no where to the response that is expected from a disc brake.

Guys.. please use Saferide ABS on fornt disc.. then slam the brakes however you want.. the least you will gain is some more confidence in the front disc.. theres nothing else to lose.. and about the above post.. the rear disc on the P220 was kept loose for a reason that people dont lock up the rear wheel v often..

I forced the local PBK ppl into increasing the bite on the rear disc and then promptly fell down due to a "locked under hard braking" rear wheel.. i have never ridden a r15 but p220 "less biting" rear disc is much safer than "stopping too fast locking rear wheel and falling".

The front was initially given the extra braking and not the rear(on both 200 and 220).. so that they may be used in that way.. 70%front braking and 30% rear braking is what is recommended.. if you are a noob (like me) and cant control the front disc by proper pumping we should get extra help in the form of Saferide ABS and save our bones/bikes from any further damage.

P.S.: This is not an advertisement.

Buddy try R15 once and you will feel the difference.
There is a lot of difference between brakes being too hard (especially the disc) and the brakes being upto the mark.
Till the time i had not experienced the braking capabilities of R15 i also used to think on the same line as you wrote in your post. After riding i realized the difference.
Even while at high speeds when you'll apply the rear disc (R15) you will feel that brake has been applied.

Rear brakes should be loose enough that they don't end lock the wheel but at the same time they should not be this loose that you need to depend completely on front brakes in emergency situations which at times can lead to wheel lockout.
Agree ABS would be helpful for this but still my point is that bike manufacturer's should provide their bikes with a balanced set of brakes. Sadly Bajaj failed to do so ( I can say this based on my experience at least).

Hi guys..
After the rains and riding in the slush for the last few days I'm sure the chain whould have attracted a lot of mud...

I've been wondering on how the chain could be cleaned and lubricated again?

I've read about some 'OKS' chain spray(lubricant) but how do I clean the chain first? Is this particular spray good to use or is there any thing better that can be used?

All help really appreciated. If there's a thread (or post) thats already been discussion the same please post the link. . Thanks in advance..

You can use Kerosene to clean the chain and afterwards lube the chain with sprays or SAE 90 Gear oil

Have been following this for the past 1.5yr Works like a charm

okay.. so should I use some brush and clean the chain using kerosene or just pour kerosene on the chain???

Use kerosene only once in a while when there is too much of muck to remove, else it will turn the chain black.

if money is not a problem u can use motul's chain cleaner + lubricant...both of which will cost around INR 800 or 900(donno the exact)!!

Money's always a problem yaar.. But yeah if its worth it and proves its usefulness then why not. Have you or anyone been using these?
How effective is this product? and yes one last question how many times can these be used for cleaning+lubricating?

Thanks for the info guys