By the way, silver color is looking good on Twister. I am sometimes surprised why these bike manufacturers dont launch all colors in Indian market, be it honda, Yamaha or even our own Bajaj.

Does anybody know the electrical wiring diagram for Twister? I have an HID and wish to install it after switching the line from AC to DC direct from battery. The thing to do is that I need to find the wire which supplies the ac power to the headlamps, so could somebody help me with it if they know? I can track it down if i remove the fuel tank and front fenders but I get little time after work daily for all the messing up and the fenders are a pain to remove. I have a wiring diagram of Dio, but it already is DC and uses a relay, so not of any help and I donot wish to take it to an electrician and mess everything up. Thanks in advance.

This thread really seems to be deserted.No traffic at all for the past couple of hours.

hi sachin

Front forks was the problem....it was very lose, the mechanic said...
now the front forks are checked and i am very comfortable with the u-turn, corner turns, very smooth... the problem is solved.

thanks for the help

hello friends,doesn't anyone have a solution for my troubles.

In all the Honda bikes gear shift is always good.

Welcome to the thread,
1)For hard gear shift first i want to know which bike you used earlier because i've used passion+ before buying the twister due to the single lever from the double one i felt the same for some days. While test drive i can't able to shift more than second gear.
For impossible gear shifting it may due to improper clutch handling adjust the clutch and apply & release it fully.
2) Adjust the ideal speed brother it's very easy one you can do it yourself.
3) The disc brake pads might be rubbing on the disc continuously else some sand may entered inside.
4) These all things are clarly mentioned in the manual read it fully

Sachin like this only but not a bigger one and also only on RH side.

Before installing think once again because it'll fry our bike battery easily thing is HID needs a 7-9 amps while warmups then at continues working it require 3.5amps..
If you still want go ahead , you no need to remove the fuel tank just open the front headlamp assembly and found a bunch of wires in bikes LH side covered with a rubber sleeve.
Pull the cover & found a yellow wire, this is directly coming from the RR. Cut it & insulate the one end properly.
The other end which is going to the switches route it via a ignition switch output this will be on Bikes RH side.
Now your bike is full DC, Normally HID kits come like a plug & play so you can directly connect the H4 Plug which is on HID to the H4 socket in bike and for a HID ballet input you can directly take from the ignition output.

When ever you tighten you chain have a look on the fork nut also.

I used super splendor and boxer deluxe before.Compared to the twister I have now,they all had much better,precise & smooth gear shifts.I think it's due to the wrong clutch setup.I need assistance for an optimal clutch setup & also the right idling speed.Please help me.

Thanks bro. Yes, I did some calculations. Our battery is 4.2Ah so it can give 4A for 1 hr or 8A for 1/2hr and the charging system is 100-120W at around 6k RPM, so should give a neat 3A@14v at speeds from 30Kmph. The HID system, I bench tested it inside out. Starts at 5.2A at 12.5V and in 5 seconds drops to 4.18A. So in my calculation, the 4Ah battery+3Ah idle speed current from alternator can easily support this setup without draining the battery.
Now about the connection, yesterday I went on some wire tracking, opened the switch cluster and tracked yellow wire to the molex connector in headlamp assembly and closed circuit tested it, but it doesnt come from RR as RR makes it pure DC, but that is ok, I could remove the pin from the molex connector without cutting wire and switch it to direct battery, but the next problem, the headlight bulb is not grounded! The chasis ground or battery -ve has no connection to the ground of the headlight bulb as the RR we have is full wave and so both the lines are rectified. I tracked that green wire to the alternator connector near the left side cover. Last point to check is RR inputs which in my calculation should be where to start. So now I feel, it would be a total mess to convert this to bike to DC as only do mods which are reversible. So as a change of plan, going to use a relay and drive the hid from battery with a 1sqmm wire direct from battery and the relay will be switched by the existing headlight wire. Main advantage, I dont need to worry if the existing wires will take the load, and 2nd everything will be reversible in 10 mts, just pull out the relay and bypass wire Im explaining all this to let anyone who wishes to do any headlight mod to be aware that all 3 wires to the headlight bulb is independent of the battery system, there is no common ground. If you do find a wiring diagram please do let me know Thanks again bro.

Hi Smartrider, my two cents here for issues you have mentioned. Sachin is correct that it depends on which bike you ride earlier. I rode RE for all my riding years before twister, and believe me RE has neutral in between every gear !! I find it very smooth and crisp to shift gears in Twister, morever your is still very new bike. New bikes tend to have hard gear shifts/gears slippage etc. For idling issue, I think your bike is just fine. Its normal for any bike to shut off for few times when we start it for first time in day.

Hi Raja

I found something for you while looking at Honda site....they have standard side box for twister and IMO its looking good. There is small box too which fits just between side panel and engine. See this CB Twister


Also this Studds Accessories Ltd. , they have good side boxes too.

Bro, your bike has only just broken in after 1000kms. It needs atleast 5000kms and frequent oil changes initially to remove all the impurities from the machined parts to make it smooth. Now Im at 35k Kms and I used to have an old splendor before this. Initially I too had the same problem you told, but now its butter. The splendor had harder presses than my present twisters condition. Oil plays a great role how your gearbox works so change it timely and use good quality oils. I have to admit that rarely when I have to stop at a signal braking directly from 60 or higher without downshifting while running, I may get a unshiftable gear lock at mostly 2nd or 3rd gear. It is not a fault, it is how gearbox mechanics work. Just like it is easier to steer a car when running, a gearbox can be shifted properly only while the power shaft is running. So if you get stuck, try to move your bike slowly by releasing clutch and throttle and then try again. Every bike has this problem though it is rare to notice it. And the twister shows it well out during the initial 5k kms.. Dont bother about the clutch, its razor sharp. Disc brake sound, try using a fine sand paper and just rub off the part of the calipers which touch the disc. Shud be due to dirt pressed into calipers. for lubing the chain, buy a chain lube for 120Rs and lube it every 700Kms, ride only after 10 mts after application.

Can you specify which chain lube ?? My bike has run 250 KMs till now so need as of now, planning to lube it somewhere around 1000 KMs. I read somewhere to use something like EP90 grease...

I use some brand called diamond. Anything works, heard even motul is available. They come as a spray which sticks on the chain. Never apply grease on open chain, it will stick all the dust and sand and become dry and hard making the chain heavy. Then you will need to service it to lubricate again. Though company says 1k kms, I've noticed the chain going dry after 600kms.. So do it whenever it becomes dry.

Thanks buddy for lead !!