The working is like this.. HID<-battery<-alternator.. we will be charging and discharging at the same time. And if you rev to 4k, which normally everyone rides in cities, definitely you will get minimum 4A. My bike always runs at 6k on highways @55kmph.

Actually, the headlights are connected to the inputs of RR, that is why they have AC. If they were connected to outputs of RR, then headlight would already be DC and would come in parallel to the battery so would have been a dc setup already. Also, there is no common ground for the headlights, the headlight ground is ac and not connected to chassis or battery -ve. Also the speedo lights are not connected to the low beam line, they come right after the headlight on/0ff switch and just before the hi/low beam switch. Ill post the diagram later.

And I seriousely doubt you cut out the charger setup from the battery and so the battery ran out in half an hour as battery was not charging.

Good then....do post pics once done

Hi joseph, this is hell lot of things done on Twister. Salute you man ! I too need Tacho for my bike, can you help ??

But I think the headlight is grounded to the chassis as the battery, magneto coil and any other electric equipment on the bike. Please read the diagram again.

Its a lot of work bro. I programmed a microcontroller in C language and designed it. Opened up the speedo and fixed it inside. I could provide you the circuits and code, but you will have to flash the code to the microcontroller and build the circuit.

That diagram was drawn by him based on his observation. I tested these myself using a multimeter. You could even check it yourself, I can tell you how to do if you need to.

On googling, I find out some tachometers that are fairly easy to install but problem is not available in India .They have just one receptor wire that needs to winded around spark plug wire and connection from battery. Thats it, so no wire cutting etc. is it same case in tacho made by you ?

hey joseph......seems you made lots of efforts on improving your bike. hats off to you!! would like to more from you regarding valve timing adjustment. first i want to buy one allan key,for opening that timing hole cap. which size key should i buy?

If you are always ride in Highways no issue but i'm sure at 6k rpm it wont give 4A.

No. the input of RR is 70volt AC that is the output of the coil,so if the lamps are connected to that it will blast with in no time.

The RR is having both AC & DC outputs.

Ya you are correct the speedo lights are connected after the headlight switch.
The headlight is grounded to the body only.

Bro I'm stunned.Really glad to know that you've gotten this far with your ride."CONGRATS".I'm a novice in bike mechanism & electronics.Hope I could learn from you.Also it would be really great if you post some pics of your modifications-rear tyre change,digital tacho, led park light strips, led flashers inside headlamp & led running tail lamp(let the lights glow at night) IF YOU ARE FREE.Thanks.

So the below pic shows my present instrument console. The whole console is ambient lighted by a white led strip. Stock 5W lamps were removed, and this strip wired to ignition key so this pic represents with ignition key on and engine off. No glowing of meter console with rpm. Earlier it was blue, but the red parts of the dial and odometer were unreadable, so switched to white and all my friends loved it. The Digital tachometer can be seen next to it, it displays 'OFF' when engine is not running and the rpm in Thousands in 2 digits with one decimal point. The 'OFF' indicator was an idea of mine to avoid showing 0.0 and took just 2 lines of code



The below diagram shows how I made it and the circuitry. It is actually a mini computer with a speed of 5Mhz and runs on the code I wrote. Took me 2 weeks to program and build. Did all this before I joined for work. The circuit board goes below the console plate which shows the speed and the display alone comes over it but below the glass.



And yes there are a lot of meters available, but the problem is they have to be installed outside. I dont know how they work, but this project of mine works on a simple idea. There is a firing signal line from the flywheel to the CDI ignition unit which fires the spark plug. The line is connected to a tiny coil inside the gearbox and a magnet is stuck on the flywheel which when passes by the coil on every engine rotation generating a voltage near 10v ac and tells the cdi to fire the sparks. This technology is from Honda and every bike has it built in. So after some research, I came to find that there is a pulse for every rotation meaning it indicates the engine RPM. I designed a frequency counter using the chip and Hitech C to count these pulses per second. After some interesting maths inside the chip, it displays the engine RPM live on the display. The spark plug line has over 20,000V and it is very hard to use it for precision electronics, so while tinkering I found this line, which helped me build the project. There is no cutting involved, just insert the wire to the existing connector from the engine and power the circuit from the ignition key and you are good to go. I dont have a real tachometer to calibrate is precisely, but as far as my calculations are correct, the error should be +/- 200RPM which is negligible. My driving is based on the tacho, I rarely check the speedo. I drive with the tacho and I get excellent mileage.

Thank You bro. I didnt really mean to do all this, but the bike serves me so well, I love it so much. The allen key size is 6mm. Dad has a great collection of tools, so picked it from his toolkit My exhaust timing was out slightly after 25k, so adjusted it. Intake was fine. Take your time and do it bro. Adjust the bolt only if the clearance has changed a lot.


If you are sure it has a 120W alternator, then it should produce 4A at 6k rpm. I will check this for sure soon.

Our engine has 3 coils bro. One for the 12V AC output for headlamps and charging, one coil with 60VAC to power the ignition coil and CDI Unit and one coil to give the CDI the spark timing signal pulse which is not for power generation.
The 60V seperate coil from power coil is to reduce the gauge size for the power coil as to fit everything into the crank case alternator. To increase voltage, we just need to wind more turns, but to increase current, we need to increase the coil gauge, so by using a 60v coil, we can have its gauge reduced by 5 times than what would have been needed with a 12v coil. All bikes have 3 coils like this.
The power supply 12v coil is 120W and only generates power for the headlamps and battery charging. Even if this coil blows, the bike will run as it runs on the 60v coil. The 12V coil is 2 phase, chasis ground, more like a center tapped transformer. 12vAC when converted to DC equals 12x1.414=17V and the drop through most silicon rectifer diodes is 0.7V so you get near 16.3VDC out of the diodes which is then regulated by the Regulator chip inside the RR. The drop for most regulators is 1.25V and we end up with approximately 15V which is our DC source. So there is no need to connect an AC bulb to a DC rectifier output when it can run fine on 12V AC which is the inputs to RR.

No bro, The RR has 4 pins. AC phase 1 input, AC phase 2 input, + DC output and Ground which is common for both input and output. I have even built one on my own once to trace a fault. You can find the circuit below.



Please find a multimeter, put in continuity mode, connect one lead to the green ground pin of the headlight bulb and the other to chasis or battery negative. If you get a continuity, I will deem you an expert. It is grounded only on a DC setup system like cars. On our bike, grounding the headlight common terminal is like shorting any of the Phase input lines of the RR to ground.

Thank You bro. Im here to help every fellow rider here We are all Bikers The digital tacho you can find above, tyre change will post soon, led flasher and LED Tacho in working I will post a video tomorrow. The below video shows the tail lamp.

The led strips on the front is shown below. It used to be white, but they faded after 2 years and became dim, a property of white leds, so now using blue to get a bit more attraction

If you need to know anything more, do ask

@rajaselvam and joseph,Regarding the alternator rating... its 0.14KW@5000RPM that means 140watts@5000RPM. This is mentioned in user manual(page 81)

140W is the combined power for the power coil and 60v coil. So mostly the power coil would produce only about 60-70W individually which is 5-6A at 5k RPM still which is more than enough as it is at 5k RPM which is normal running.

Nice work Joseph.The tachometer & LED strip look good.Waiting for the rest of the pics.

Well , I am really impressed !! hatttts off to you !