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Thanks Mr.Alukka.You mentioned that you too had gear shift problems.I'd like to know,how you felt with the gears during those initial days.Also,do you know any clutch tuning technique.
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Your old bikes had double lever & also full down/up shift patten. So changing the gear is quiet easy. So you maybe new to this single lever with 1-down 3-up pattern. So it'll be tough for you initially but once you learned then you'll feel it's the best method of gear shift. Because i'm also had the same experience in my twister initially.Originally posted by smartrider View Post
1) 1st think our bike battery is 3AH not a 4.2AH.Originally posted by joseph.alukka View PostThanks bro. Yes, I did some calculations. Our battery is 4.2Ah so it can give 4A for 1 hr or 8A for 1/2hr and the charging system is 100-120W at around 6k RPM, so should give a neat 3A@14v at speeds from 30Kmph. The HID system, I bench tested it inside out. Starts at 5.2A at 12.5V and in 5 seconds drops to 4.18A. So in my calculation, the 4Ah battery+3Ah idle speed current from alternator can easily support this setup without draining the battery.
Now about the connection, yesterday I went on some wire tracking, opened the switch cluster and tracked yellow wire to the molex connector in headlamp assembly and closed circuit tested it, but it doesnt come from RR as RR makes it pure DC, but that is ok, I could remove the pin from the molex connector without cutting wire and switch it to direct battery, but the next problem, the headlight bulb is not grounded! The chasis ground or battery -ve has no connection to the ground of the headlight bulb as the RR we have is full wave and so both the lines are rectified. I tracked that green wire to the alternator connector near the left side cover. Last point to check is RR inputs which in my calculation should be where to start. So now I feel, it would be a total mess to convert this to bike to DC as only do mods which are reversible. So as a change of plan, going to use a relay and drive the hid from battery with a 1sqmm wire direct from battery and the relay will be switched by the existing headlight wire. Main advantage, I dont need to worry if the existing wires will take the load, and 2nd everything will be reversible in 10 mts, just pull out the relay and bypass wire
Im explaining all this to let anyone who wishes to do any headlight mod to be aware that all 3 wires to the headlight bulb is independent of the battery system, there is no common ground. If you do find a wiring diagram please do let me know Thanks again bro.
2) Yes our bike is having 120W generator but at 6k rpm as u said. But here it's the output with combination of both AC & DC
Here AC output = 35W headlight + 5W Tail light + 5W for donsole lights = 45W
Reaming is DC output = 120 - 45 = 75W = 75/14 = 5AH at max rpms.
This is the configuration of our RR so even if you are not using the AC output the DC output remain same 75W only.
At idle speed the maximum DC output of the RR is not more than 1Ah i've tested this,
So you can use the HID at high speeds only.
I've used the HID in night highway drive at 80-90kmph about 8hrs(Mysore-Chennai) it's worked fine but inside city at 40kmph battery got exhausted with in 1/2 an hour.
Relay wont work in AC supply.
For a wiring issue i'll update a picture for you which i'm using currently.
Thanks broOriginally posted by MoonLight View Post
I'm not sure about Honda accessories but i've checked the studds one
This one is costs 550rs with free installation.
Planning to go for this .Last edited by rajaselvam_1987; 03-07-2013, 01:01 AM.Comment
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ok...thanks for the information.Originally posted by shubhakv View Posthi sachin
Front forks was the problem....it was very lose, the mechanic said...
now the front forks are checked and i am very comfortable with the u-turn, corner turns, very smooth... the problem is solved.
thanks for the help
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rajaselvem, have you found any solution as to how to fix the side box?......it doesn't look easy like splendor and passion.
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hey moonlight, thanks a Ton for that link on Honda accessories...it seems Honda website has added these new accessories recently. the side box priced at Rs 1326 looks great ....and its specially designed perfect fit for Twister. i might get that Twister side box for myself....along with that utility box coasting 268 Rs.the prices of all accessories are now given on Honda website so your dealer cannot cheat you now. Honda has done great job with this stylish design of side box and utility box that complements twister style.Originally posted by MoonLight View Post
Thumps up from me for these accessories!!
Attached FilesLast edited by sachin1111; 03-07-2013, 01:25 AM.
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Woring Drawings
This is the wiring what i'm saying for Full DC conversion.
But this will drain the battery.
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You are welcome bro. I have seen exactly same side box fitted on some bikes, quality seems to be indeed good. I think you have to get metal frame (for holding this side box ) fabricated from fabricator.Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
Do check for Honda standard side box too...I think it would be coming with metal frame pre packed. lot easier too install.Comment
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You are welcome sachin... I too feel they have done very good job by making accesories specific to Twister. Actually I was quite impressed with Honda accesories that they fitted in my bike. I got saree guard and leg guard fitted, and these things were having such great finish and perfectly designed for Twsiter. No jugaad etc... I am loving my Baby hondaOriginally posted by sachin1111 View Posthey moonlight, thanks a Ton for that link on Honda accessories...it seems Honda website has added these new accessories recently. the side box priced at Rs 1326 looks great ....and its specially designed perfect fit for Twister. i might get that Twister side box for myself....along with that utility box coasting 268 Rs.the prices of all accessories are now given on Honda website so your dealer cannot cheat you now. Honda has done great job with this stylish design of side box and utility box that complements twister style. Thumps up from me for these accessories!!
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raja, this diagram is very useful.......where did you find it?Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
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Well when I checked it with the Exide and Amaron dealers, they told its 4A, so had an idea like that, my bad, will confirm today.Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View Post
And regarding the calculations, a 35w halogen bulb consumes only 27W, 35W is just a class. My console lights, tail lights, park lights are all LEDS and dont account to more than 300mA overall in power consumption. And Im taking it this way.:
The HID will be loaded to the battery, and suppose it is 3A, the hid will be pulling at 4A. The alternator will be charging the battery at a minimum of 1A at even 2k RPM as our max is 8A and normally it will be 6A at 50kmph speeds. So
while idling, HID takes 4-1= 3A from battery
while running normally HID takes 4-6=-2, ie will be charging battery at extra 2A apart from powering the HID. So this is my calculation, could be wrong or right.
And We cant make the HID take 3A from this and 2A from that. We can only use one varying power source to complement a constant supply source, so all in all should be fine, I will let you know. And a relay can be used if you simply use a single diode or a bridge on it, 2 mts job to solder 4 diodes onto the relay :P Ill test this out and let you know, thanks for all the info.
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The gears were a little rougher for shifting and would occationally drop into neutral in between 1-3 gears. THose days needed firm presses on the level to shift properly without flase neutral but now, it never goes neutral while engine is running and also just a tap on the level is enough to shift. The only adjustment available for the clutch is free play adjustment and that is used to cut out the free movement of the lever to the point when the clutch cable starts getting pulled. Detailed in the manual.. It is rarely necessary. If clutch is adjusted too tightly, some power will be lost as clutch will not allow full power transfer and if it is too loose, you will have to pull the clutch all the way to the end to shift. If it is optimal, clutch will be tight and you can shift when the lever is near halfway between the free movement area.Originally posted by smartrider View PostComment
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Bro, in this diagram, the yellow wire to bulb doesnt come after the RR, it is connected to the inputs of the RR right? else bulb will come directly to the battery, think about it.Originally posted by rajaselvam_1987 View PostComment
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Thanks bro.Your bike did 35k kms. what about the maintenance & also had you any replacements or modifications?Comment
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This is a diagram which i drawn yesterday myself and absorbed from my bike.Originally posted by sachin1111 View Post
Ya you are correct, but the mountings are readily available here so no need to wait in fabricator place.Originally posted by MoonLight View Post
Dude what ever it maybe you will use or not the AC output of the RR will-be there. So Your calculation will be correct at the staring time 3+1 = 4A.Originally posted by joseph.alukka View PostWell when I checked it with the Exide and Amaron dealers, they told its 4A, so had an idea like that, my bad, will confirm today.
And regarding the calculations, a 35w halogen bulb consumes only 27W, 35W is just a class. My console lights, tail lights, park lights are all LEDS and dont account to more than 300mA overall in power consumption. And Im taking it this way.:
The HID will be loaded to the battery, and suppose it is 3A, the hid will be pulling at 4A. The alternator will be charging the battery at a minimum of 1A at even 2k RPM as our max is 8A and normally it will be 6A at 50kmph speeds. So
while idling, HID takes 4-1= 3A from battery
while running normally HID takes 4-6=-2, ie will be charging battery at extra 2A apart from powering the HID. So this is my calculation, could be wrong or right.
And We cant make the HID take 3A from this and 2A from that. We can only use one varying power source to complement a constant supply source, so all in all should be fine, I will let you know. And a relay can be used if you simply use a single diode or a bridge on it, 2 mts job to solder 4 diodes onto the relay :P Ill test this out and let you know, thanks for all the info.
But after 20min of city riding battery will lost 1A because it's not get any charge for RR
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So now 2+1=3A but your HID needs 4A then how will you run the HID
But you are correct at High speed ride, at that time battery also will get charge by RR
Bro this is what i've absorbed from by bike. And also i did a full DC that was worked fine but drained the battery. so now i came back to AC+DC setup.I'll update the wiring diagram what i'm using presently by tomorrowOriginally posted by joseph.alukka View Post
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I love this bike bro. It has not given me a single unwanted expense for the past 3 years, never ever broken down or landed me in trouble. After covering near 35k, my expenses so far were 7 oil changes(tried servo, was shit with gear shift troubles, went back to Honda oil), 2 air filter change, rear tyre change(mrf zapper 100mm section, installed after stock one ran out at 26k kms), 1 chain and sprocket change(chain length increased beyond adjustment due to wear and tear at 28k, other manufacturer bikes change this at 15k), one battery change(lasts near 2 yrs), 1 speedo cable change(due to my rough handling while fixing some electronics), 1 head seal change(60rs, was the only unwanted defect this bike developed) and some chain lube, rubbing compound and wax polish. After 6 months of free service, my bike hasnt seen the service center ever after. I adjust valve timings, tune the AFR, modifed air intake and exhaust, designed and fixed a digital tacho, led park light strips, led flashers inside headlamp, led running tail lamp, remove and service the chain. Once I even opened up the gearbox to check the alternator. I know the bike inside out now, and I monitor its health by constantly checking the fuel efficency. Returns 70Kmph even after the tyre change and air intake mod after which power and pickup tremendously increased near to 135cc bikes. I've experimented a lot on this bike electrically and mechanically. Compared to bajaj bikes which need service every 2 weeks, this bike is a king. I drive it daily for 60kms to work and back and I'd say its the perfect commuter bike.Originally posted by smartrider View PostComment
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