Hi Guys,
Can you please tell me the correct RPM to change gears, I have been using dazzler from 1year have never seem FE crossing 45.
My dirving style is only in city not crossing 50-60 speed doing service on time informed the SVC but no use.
Any tips for good FE please.

i shift between 3.5kRPM and 4kRPM ..

Stay in 5th gear as long as you can

There is a small spring in the gear shifter which returns the lever to the original position. it is behind the clutch housing. there is nothing to worry. only the clutch side needs to open and it will take hardly one hour. this is one of the most common problem in bikes.

Does anyone here know the customer care mail id for Honda bikes.
One of my friend would like to register a complaint against the dealer.
Like for TVS bikes there is a mail id to which you can send mails regarding issues & they will call you back and give assistance.
Please share any official mail id's.

In cities if you are riding always in 2 and 3 gears, 45 kmpl is decent. You will get 50 kmpl if you get into 4th gear and 5th gear for at least 40% of the time.

The optimum gear shifting is between 4 to 4.5k rpm. Shifting at 3.5k is not advisable as it puts pressure on the engine to pull.

Change the air filter at every 7-9k kilometers (price 170 rupees). The recommmended 15k interval in the manual is when you ride in very clean environment. Also, change spark plug at every 10k kms. Also, avoid rapid acceleration. Also, check the air pressure regularly (once a week at least). Underinflated tyres result in less mileage. Front 25 and rear 32 is the correct pressure.

Thanks Ravi
Following most of the tips mentioned by you, will change the air filter at 7k kilometers as current odo is 6k ansd spark plug at 10k.

Right, even I got this confirmed from the svc. But the only pain is that just recently i had opened the clutch side to clean the oil filters, now I would have to again repeat that whole process.

Don't worry, these are small niggles. I recently opened the clutch case to replace the clutch bearing. Its just takes not more than 30 minutes.

Opening clutch case doesn't affect the bike at all. The main part of the engine is inside (Crankshaft, cylinder, Piston, etc) , and when you open that only then you need to worry about expertise of the mechanics there.

Check my new mod..




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Okies....thanks for highlighting this point. Actually, this was the only reason I was worried about again opening the clutch case. (its hard to find expert mechanics.)

the pads are constantly in touch with the disc . won't it lead to faster wear of the pads???

is there an alternate brand for disc pads (both front and rear) for my dazzler.

can we use ngk iridum spark plugs? mine is due for replacement.

You can fill out the contact form at their website(http://www.honda2wheelersindia.com/). Long time back I had occasion to do the same. Got prompt assistance from a customer care rep at the factory.

The pads will be touch with the disc, but they will not rub the disc until you press the brake lever. In case if you haven't read, I have been running with stock pads that came when I bought the bike. My odo is now 24k, and I am sure there is life left for another 5-6k kms.

There are no alternatives for the pads. I don't know why you want any alternative pads. The pads quality is very decent. The rear pads are made by Nissin, and you don't get that pads anywhere. Use of any local pads may lead to improper disc wearout and you will loose progressive braking.

I don't think Iridium plug is worth and it doesn't make any huge difference. Alternatively you can use NGK G-power plug, which cost you 200 bucks only and is better than stock one. Its a VFM.

Dude, awesome! I am also looking for a similar mount for my phone! What mount is this? A universal ram mount kind of thing or some car dash board mount that you modified?

Also is it secure? As in does it hold the phone firmly at speeds upto 94kmph (7k rpms)? Only then will it be suitable for touring. And how much did it cost? Ordered online or bought from local shop?

I am trying to do some similar arrangement for my phone as well, thats why the interest. Tried keeping the phone in a clear plastic pouch and tying the whole thing on central handle bar area using velcro strips. Didnt quite work as nicely as I wanted it to though So have scrapped that project as of now

Well just want to put in some numbers as stated in the manual.

Tyre pressures Front 25 Rear 29 without pillion and Front 25 Rear 33 with pillion. Best to stick to this and check pressures on cold tyres (run less than 2kms) since these are cold tyre pressure recommendation, check it every time you refuel or every week and after any long period of time when the bike has been left unused. Also store bike in shade as alternate heating and cooling of bike tyres when kept in open for long leads to the tyre rubber becoming brittle and cracking.

Spark Plug replacement: Every 9000kms
Air Filter replacement : Every 15000kms

Best to change both of these simultaneously at 10-11000kms. My spark plug at 10500 kms is still looking good, but I will probably change it at 11k along with air filter.

Spray chain lube every 500kms (literally 5 minutes job, one can of Yamalube cost me Rs250 and will last for more than 2 years at the rate I am using it) Do not ask service centre to do "chain overhaul" because that is bullshit and they charge Rs80/- for it and apply used engine oil. They don't even bother adjusting chain slack and the road grime sticks onto the sticky and gummy used engine oil and increases friction. For the first two days everything will seem smooth and as soon as excess used engine oil has flung off the chain, your troubles will start.

And finally, my mantra to high mileage. "Do not accelerate fast, avoid applying brakes!" This I have learnt by my own methods and am not copy pasting from anywhere else.

Why this mantra? Because the amount of fuel your engine burns is first and foremost decided by how open your throttle is. The secret of getting good mileage is to open the least amount of throttle for maximum amount of time. However whenever you want to accelerate, you open throttle more than what is required for the engine to run at that rpm. And this is an obvious requirement of acceleration so if you keep doing this, you will burn more fuel than what was required. Same thing for braking then, if you keep braking frequently then you will have to accelerate more and that will burn more fuel.

See it like this, you are in traffic and suddenly brake to 5kmph and then accelerate to 20kmph only to brake again to 5 kmph. This will burn more fuel than if you had kept the bike at 10kmph and not accelerated/braked at all. You will get BEST POSSIBLE mileage if every drop of fuel burnt is used to MAINTAIN your speed, not INCREASE your speed. And that's that!

As far as changing gears is concerned, the best shift point for all gears in Dazzler is between 3000-4000rpms depending on load. When I am riding alone, on level roads with light to moderate traffic, I shift at 3200rpms, with pillion at 3500rpms. With pillion on uphill climb, shift at 4000rpm or above. And smoothly accelerating after shifting, no hard acceleration after shifting at these rpms. If you want to accelerate hard then you will have to increase the rpms of your shift points.

And here is the deal now, I am running Joel's big bore setup in my bike and I get a consistent mileage of 48kmpl with max of 50kmpl (twice) and low of 38kmpl (consistent spirited riding with gear changes at 5000rpm and frequent braking and acceleration) but I have also got 45kmpl when keeping the bike at 6000rpm/80kmph consistently, with least possible throttle input, when touring on the highway. So I am speaking from experience.

Hope this helps.