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**blue_pulsar** · 04-06-2012, 10:12 PM

Hi folks, I own a 2005 Bajaj Pulsar 150 UG2. Its stock till now and has no mods whatsoever. But I'm planning a few mods now. They include:

I] Changing rear tires to 120/80 R17. I need your suggestions on how to do this. I believe this is not a direct fit and the swing arm needs to be replaced. Please elaborate this procedure and the costs involved. I'd be glad to have mechanic suggestions in South Bangalore / J. C. road.

II] Paint jobs:
i. Paint Alloys black
ii. Paint the grey portion of the shock ups to black.
Again, suggestions for a good and VFM painter/garage are welcome.

III] Other minor cosmetic mods.

IV] Stickering job:
i. Planning to put on some racing stripes. Need your recommendation on that.
ii. Any other suggestions for stickering.

Thanks all in advance!

**Prabhakar150** · 04-06-2012, 11:31 PM

Originally posted by blue_pulsar View Post

Hi folks, I own a 2005 Bajaj Pulsar 150 UG2. Its stock till now and has no mods whatsoever. But I'm planning a few mods now. They include:

I] Changing rear tires to 120/80 R17. I need your suggestions on how to do this. I believe this is not a direct fit and the swing arm needs to be replaced. Please elaborate this procedure and the costs involved. I'd be glad to have mechanic suggestions in South Bangalore / J. C. road.

II] Paint jobs:
i. Paint Alloys black
ii. Paint the grey portion of the shock ups to black.
Again, suggestions for a good and VFM painter/garage are welcome.

III] Other minor cosmetic mods.

IV] Stickering job:
i. Planning to put on some racing stripes. Need your recommendation on that.
ii. Any other suggestions for stickering.

Thanks all in advance!

Hi, I hope you have the alloy wheeled pulsar. If so, you can use 120/80 tyre with stock swing arm itself. Its a direct fit. For tube less tyres, cost of tyre + 150 for steel valve + 50 for fitting.

For racing strips, enquire in tvs or Yamaha showroom. You can get them there.

**deepan 63** · 04-07-2012, 12:25 PM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

Ok here is my update,

I checked my bike with two mechanics , in which one of them refused to take it as a problem at all. He tried to convince me saying that overheating is common with all pulsars. I was not satisfied as I know how cool( or hot ) my bike was running 10 days back and this is not something normal. I had a strong feeling that I would burst the piston someday with the kind of heat and smell it generates. So went to another workshop.

The other one was better as he checked free rotation of both the wheels and ridden it to see what happened. According to him the timing chain needs to be adjusted to reduce the heat. I even told him about the color of spark plugs and tomorrow I am taking my bike to him to get it adjusted.

Do you guys have any thoughts on this? Does the timing chain causes the engine to run hot or lean?

Yes bro. . It may help. . I had the same problem. My mechanic also told that he has to check the tappets and timing chain. My bike was also overheating like hell. I couldn't resist the smell while standing at signals . . After servicing that too , it was overheating a little bit. . But felt better. .

**Prabhakar150** · 04-07-2012, 02:06 PM

Originally posted by deepan 63 View Post

Yes bro. . It may help. . I had the same problem. My mechanic also told that he has to check the tappets and timing chain. My bike was also overheating like hell. I couldn't resist the smell while standing at signals . . After servicing that too , it was overheating a little bit. . But felt better. .

Thanks for the clarification deepan :-)

Edit: Got the timing and valve clearance adjusted. Its got smoother now but have to check whether its still heats up more.

**deepan 63** · 04-07-2012, 07:40 PM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

Thanks for the clarification deepan :-)

Edit: Got the timing and valve clearance adjusted. Its got smoother now but have to check whether its still heats up more.

Nice to hear prabakar

still if u feel overheating , i recommend you to try fully synthetic . after started using Motul 300v 10w40 my bike engine was going butter smooth . i always used to stick to this. but once i have tried 15W50 as it was summer , had oil leaking on tap slightly . 10W40 suits perfect .

OT - thanks to Xionite - i had seen from his post tat says , Motul 300v made his engine butter smooth. it worked for me too

**Prabhakar150** · 04-07-2012, 08:08 PM

Well Deepan the fully synthetic oils hasn't got good reviews from other members here and I am holding back for that reason. Its expensive as well.

**blue_pulsar** · 04-07-2012, 10:20 PM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

Hi, I hope you have the alloy wheeled pulsar. If so, you can use 120/80 tyre with stock swing arm itself. Its a direct fit. For tube less tyres, cost of tyre + 150 for steel valve + 50 for fitting.

For racing strips, enquire in tvs or Yamaha showroom. You can get them there.

Thanks Prabhakar! I do have the alloy wheel version.

Will post pics after all the cosmetic mods are done.

**rheeturaj sonowal** · 04-09-2012, 02:10 AM

Originally posted by rakowli View Post

Hey thanks. Between 1 tip for tuning which i have done. If you have not done any mods on you bike try this.
When your bike is warm after your ride, set the RPM screw to 3000RPM, then close the ARF screw fully on the carb, i think that is clockwise, then after that just turn the screw to open the fuel by 3-4 turns, just check if the RPM is stable, max turn up to 5 turns depending on the RPM stability. Once stable, set the RPM screw back to 1.4 - 1.5 RPM Needle. You should get better mileage by this setting.
To check after doing the setting try to pull the bike hard, if it is linear petrol flow then you are done, if there is little check on petrol flow, like while pulling if you feel less fuel to the carb then you need to increase the fuel a bit again.
This is a trail and error method, but i got it in one setting itself, so you can try it.
Best of luck.

no use buddy... I did dat n my pick up becam low, but the bike flt great at high speeds.. I hav to change the carb... E has gone bad. My girl frnd says cz gonna gv me 1 on my bday...

**rpmboy** · 04-09-2012, 11:12 AM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

Well Deepan the fully synthetic oils hasn't got good reviews from other members here and I am holding back for that reason. Its expensive as well.

+1 to that .

Fully-Synthetic is just no-no as seen in past .

Servo 20W40 is heavier good and 15W50 in Motul is going fine presently in my ride too and both are priced economically under rs.300 for 1l can and I change oil evry 1500-2000kms , max 3000kms .

**susheelkumar** · 04-09-2012, 11:58 AM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

Well Deepan the fully synthetic oils hasn't got good reviews from other members here and I am holding back for that reason. Its expensive as well.

+1 for that.

Btw semi-synthetic ones are not that notorious.
Shell 10w-40 semi-synthetic oil is pretty good & I have been using it & I'm pretty happy with its performance

**rpmboy** · 04-12-2012, 11:55 AM

Originally posted by susheelkumar View Post

+1 for that.

Btw semi-synthetic ones are not that notorious.
Shell 10w-40 semi-synthetic oil is pretty good & I have been using it & I'm pretty happy with its performance

ok...what is the oil-drain period you follow for this oil ?

**susheelkumar** · 04-12-2012, 01:01 PM

Originally posted by rpmboy View Post

ok...what is the oil-drain period you follow for this oil ?

Well I drain it after 2500km. This oil will take sometime to gel with the engine. Like it takes roughly 50-60km to understand the real difference and qualities of the oil. Like my RTR which is known for its vibrations, will have almost negligible vibrations & the gear shifts will be kind of butter smooth.
And after 2200km it will loose its shine and it will act like normal oil.
This oil is also good for long trips. I would suggest this better than fully synthetic oils, because FS oils are prone to drastic decrease in oil levels after long continuous ripping or long trips. So you will have to top-up every now & then.

**rpmboy** · 04-12-2012, 04:03 PM

Originally posted by susheelkumar View Post

Well I drain it after 2500km. This oil will take sometime to gel with the engine. Like it takes roughly 50-60km to understand the real difference and qualities of the oil. Like my RTR which is known for its vibrations, will have almost negligible vibrations & the gear shifts will be kind of butter smooth.
And after 2200km it will loose its shine and it will act like normal oil.
This oil is also good for long trips. I would suggest this better than fully synthetic oils, because FS oils are prone to drastic decrease in oil levels after long continuous ripping or long trips. So you will have to top-up every now & then.

2500 kms is quite good interval for Semi-Synthetic oil . What worries me is the 10W rating as its too low and again 40 in 10W40 is ok-ok. But surely will try once I like to change for Motul 15W50 as most of time I m on long trips & smetimes healthy ripping too

. ...

**Prabhakar150** · 04-13-2012, 08:02 PM

Originally posted by rpmboy View Post

2500 kms is quite good interval for Semi-Synthetic oil . What worries me is the 10W rating as its too low and again 40 in 10W40 is ok-ok. But surely will try once I like to change for Motul 15W50 as most of time I m on long trips & smetimes healthy ripping too

. ...

What's wrong with 10w rating bro? Isn't it a good thing actually? It reduces wear and tear at start up which is more at lower temp. I once used Valvoline 20 w 50 semi syn oil which made the ride smoother taking away whatever free revving character that the engine had.

**rpmboy** · 04-16-2012, 11:07 AM

Originally posted by Prabhakar150 View Post

What's wrong with 10w rating bro? Isn't it a good thing actually? It reduces wear and tear at start up which is more at lower temp. I once used Valvoline 20 w 50 semi syn oil which made the ride smoother taking away whatever free revving character that the engine had.

Nothing much... I perceive 10W its very fluidic than 20W as a base .

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