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Let there be Light : Bike Lighting, HID etc
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yes, GS150R supports 35W h/l. I think i have not completely understood how the coils work. My understanding was that for an ac bike there is a dedicated coil for light and it produces 35watt for the h/l. Therefore, it cant light a high power bulb without modification. However, in a dc bike all the current produced by the coil is used for charging the battery and the lighting is drawn from the battery. Is my concept incorrect. I think it is. Or you guys would not have gone for rewinding before converting to dc. Do you have some links where there are some explanation of how bike electronics works for ac and dc. Thanks. Raj.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post
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Your concept is correct. Without rewinding and just RR unit change, the bike will support 35W DC without any prob. (And maybe even a 60W, its a grey area.) With rewinding and RR unit change we get 100W DC h/l. Hope you are clear on this now.Originally posted by basumataryraj View Postyes, GS150R supports 35W h/l. I think i have not completely understood how the coils work. My understanding was that for an ac bike there is a dedicated coil for light and it produces 35watt for the h/l. Therefore, it cant light a high power bulb without modification. However, in a dc bike all the current produced by the coil is used for charging the battery and the lighting is drawn from the battery. Is my concept incorrect. I think it is. Or you guys would not have gone for rewinding before converting to dc. Do you have some links where there are some explanation of how bike electronics works for ac and dc. Thanks. Raj.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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Originally posted by lijok View PostHow much did it cost you bro? Do you know if its the same for 180 also? Also, what is the part name that the SVC guys will understand? is it stator coil or magneto coil? (And why the P220 booklet as background?)
Lijok it cost me only 50 bucks as it was bad and lying aside in the mechanic's place.I dont know the part no. AFAIK 180 & 160 sports same RR and magneto coil. This the stator plate. It is not P220 bokklet, its a issue of BIKE, i used it only for black background.
You save me, but dont know about the electrician who will rebuild it. DRVMTm its all your game now.Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post@kauria - Its not a problem. Get the exposed metal part covered in a layer of ELECTRICAL VARNISH. Its known to electrical motor winding ppl. Rewind the coils in alternate fashion. Then, get it painted by another layer of electrical varnish on the top. Then you are done.
Got ur address, will try to send this by today, I will out for my official trip from 2morrow, so take your time and build it.Originally posted by drvmtm View Postlooks pretty clear cut to me, what i told today on phone its the same suggested by abhijit.
its better to mail it to me.i will get it done.i will pm u my address tomorrow.
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kaushik no worries mate.sigpic
RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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thanks for your quick reply. I guess I would convert the bike to dc without rewinding and see if it supports 55watt bulb with the new rr unit. If not I will think of rewinding. RajOriginally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostYour concept is correct. Without rewinding and just RR unit change, the bike will support 35W DC without any prob. (And maybe even a 60W, its a grey area.) With rewinding and RR unit change we get 100W DC h/l. Hope you are clear on this now.Last edited by basumataryraj; 05-01-2010, 05:52 PM.
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correct!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:dOriginally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post^^ are there 2 kaushik on this thread?!
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RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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hey guys need your help...
i need a hid kit now....
i have a pulsar 180 ug3...
and the stock bulbs are really bad...
and i need hid xenon only not 55 watts bulb and all
what all things should to install hid so that there is knoe battery drainning
i need a problem free light....please do shed some information i will be buying hid in this week or next month...sigpic
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HIDs r cop magnets, if u r commuting in city mostly better go for the 4.3K colour temp. For using HID only u need to change the RR with APE RR, and some minor wiring mods. We have an exclusive thread for AC to DC conv ersion, everything is clearly mentioned in this dedicated thread, incl wiring diagrams for better understanding.Originally posted by joelkraju View Posthey guys need your help...
i need a hid kit now....
i have a pulsar 180 ug3...
and the stock bulbs are really bad...
and i need hid xenon only not 55 watts bulb and all
what all things should to install hid so that there is knoe battery drainning
i need a problem free light....please do shed some information i will be buying hid in this week or next month...
But if u go for coil rewinding, u can use other aux lights too, stock coils are just adequate to support a 35W HID, provided ur batt is in good condition as the coils are being stock, it may give little stain at startup.
Put the HID in an aux fitting, u'll get more control over glares, check for drvmtm's HID installation.
At last our guru is on full swing on online solutionsOriginally posted by abhijeet080808 View Post^^ Are there 2 Kaushik on this thread?!
. Hows ur new job man?
No No man, u r playing with fire, dont handle 23K volt like this, it can endup with some distaster. Just using the insulation tape wont give u proper insulation of the stock wire gives, and I assume that one of the joints will be under the tankOriginally posted by drvmtm View Postthis is exactly was in my mind,but there is little that i can do at that time.practically there is no place to sit the ballast and its not a slim ballast,its an old type,i thought of placing it inside the headlight dome but its already filled up with a cutout which is supplying the headlight unit.so i thought a little and did a daredevil decision.i thought i will use heavier gauges of wire as it carries a mad load of voltage.but it was pretty low guage wire,i used the closest wire gauge,extended the wires by 4 foot or so.placed the ballast under the sit with its dedicated cutout.now i winded the wires first with black tape individually then covered them with wire covering sleeve and then with wire insulaters to cover them properly all the way from ballast to light.till now i didnt faced any prob.i got another one today ,thinking of building a another one.please share your thoughts.
. See the thickness of the insulation of th HT cable, and what about the water proofing? Dont get fried up with a leakage while the joints are wet. I still suggest u to go for the original state or atleast u should use a silicon sealent to make it water proof. Its only 40 bucks for a small tube and make sure that its 100% leak proof in all joints. And more over, an insulation tape wont last long once the adhesive looses its strength, it will start peeling off, so for ur saftey, avoid all jugad. Why dont u keep the ballast under the number plate so that it can reach the crash guard. Ballast is almost weather proof and u can keep the whole thing in a small container which will ensure more saftey.
Hey Lijo, can u elaborate this?Originally posted by lijok View PostI guessed... but for a wild moment I thot pulsar coil may also fit! hehe. I also have a recoiling work in the pipeline... so keeping a close watch on all related threads...
Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
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After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-
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@SAJJIT...ORIGINAL QUOTE..'No No man, u r playing with fire, dont handle 23K volt like this, it can endup with some distaster. Just using the insulation tape wont give u proper insulation of the stock wire gives, and I assume that one of the joints will be under the tank
. See the thickness of the insulation of th HT cable, and what about the water proofing? Dont get fried up with a leakage while the joints are wet. I still suggest u to go for the original state or atleast u should use a silicon sealent to make it water proof. Its only 40 bucks for a small tube and make sure that its 100% leak proof in all joints. And more over, an insulation tape wont last long once the adhesive looses its strength, it will start peeling off, so for ur saftey, avoid all jugad. Why dont u keep the ballast under the number plate so that it can reach the crash guard. Ballast is almost weather proof and u can keep the whole thing in a small container which will ensure more saftey.....QUOTE'.
well sajjit,as i told you ithought of this before.even i also got scared how to handle a very very high voltage.then i got the idea.
1.i used the closest match of wires actually it was no 4 wire which was even more then the original wires of the hid.
2.extension is not a new thing in hids,its pretty common bro.there are cables avl in the web but unfortunately i couldnt souce one though.
3.there are three covering in the wires.......first the wire is blacktaped up all the way,and i reapeat all the way,not just the joints,all the way ,from igniter to hid,INDIVIDUALLY.
4.WIRES PUT INTO individuall wiring sleevs which are adhesiveless used in automobile wiring.end to end.
5.all put into sealed sleevs 3mm thick end to end which are used in trucks to secure trucks wiring.
so i think its pretty safe. still i welcome your inputs.adhesive silicon is a very excellant idea. can u please tell me the brand of it?
i again welcome ur inputs.plese post ur views.
ps,.joints are under the seat and indside the dome,no slicing dicing under tank.sigpic
RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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@sajjt - I'm talking about the recoil work to install 55/60W bulb for which i went to JJ AutoElectricals (Jomy) at cochin. I couldnt get it done that time as Jomy was out of station. Now I'm thinking of going for a full DC conversion. Very difficult to get leave from office...
One more query... whats the specs of the APE RR, i mean as in its original use and where can I find it?Last edited by lijok; 05-03-2010, 08:38 PM.
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I am doing fine! Job's still in training period.Originally posted by sajjt View PostAt last our guru is on full swing on online solutions
. Hows ur new job man?
@drvmtm - If you take care of the joints, especially with silicone sealant as sajjt has mentioned, it should be fine. Even though the voltage may be high, current is quite low. So, should not be a prob.Your biking tells a lot about the person you are!
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Originally posted by abhijeet080808 View PostI am doing fine! Job's still in training period.
@drvmtm - If you take care of the joints, especially with silicone sealant as sajjt has mentioned, it should be fine. Even though the voltage may be high, current is quite low. So, should not be a prob.
abhi,can u please let me know the brandname of the sealaNT? SILICON?
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RIDE AND DRIVE SAFE AND PLEASE CHANGE THE PICTURE ON INDIAN ROADS.
my thoughts,my area,my game....http://vmtm.blogspot.com/
IF YOU LOVE MAINTAINING YOUR RIDE..http://nexgenbikes.com/site/
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Hey I have R15 and i am running 4300K HID on high beam. I have no problem till now.Originally posted by joelkraju View Posthey guys need your help...
i need a hid kit now....
i have a pulsar 180 ug3...
and the stock bulbs are really bad...
and i need hid xenon only not 55 watts bulb and all
what all things should to install hid so that there is knoe battery drainning
i need a problem free light....please do shed some information i will be buying hid in this week or next month...
Contact our XBHP guy Navnish N. He had all the information about this and he installed HIDs in many bikes..Please use all possible safety measures while riding and remember others also riding on the same road...
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