@arjun
photos r cool....u r indicators r more cool.i think it will b more cool when it is stickered with blue instead of black.

@JASMINE RIDER, can you quote without the pics pls..? Sometimes it feels too irritating for everyone to scroll down to the same pics again & again

Now bike is powered with nos

now gear box came to smooth. dont know why. it happend so without any change.
bike is now completed 3600 kms.

Look at this video this will make everything clear, as I am sure that if I explain you in words it will not be gonna help you. Look below video:

YouTube - Adjusting your Clutch Cable

NOTE: Clutch play should be atleast 1.0-1.5cm for effective clutch operation.

that means? which distance should b atleast 1.0-1.5/cm?

well thanks my dear, but the point is that to give is a straight line look on the indicator. Like we see on the side rear view glasses of the cars same kind of a feel or may be u can say a touch.

whereas blue will not look nice yak.

there is also blue indicators...noticed that?

The play of clutch lever I am talking about.

Black looks nice.

ok thanks...abhi

just watch this amazing drive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L79yL...layer_embedded

@jasmine:

Already posted on another thread. Bike speculation 2011 thread.

Ah, I can understand why you cant get the "analogy". Thing is after 2K kms, my level dropped drastically after an 80km ride at 95k/hr on double riding. And another friend of mine had switched to 300v and his gasket couldnt take the FS so he needed a top up too. Which is why the two of us pooled in and bought another 300v. Consequently, since I've 500ml of 300v lying around uselessly, I thought I'd do that change.

I wasn't working on the assumption that a part of the engine remains dry if the quantity is not up to level. However, under stress (high speed running), would not a lower volume of engine oil be detrimental?
And the reason I thought of 6K kms is because I read somewhere around xBHP that the 300v is good for that duration. From what I remember reading, 5100 can be pushed to 3000kms and 300v till 6000kms. If thats incorrect, thanks for the correction. You guys just saved me from fried piston rings.

BTW, I'm just curious - what happens when an oil gets old? It becomes dirty, for one. And it also loses its viscosity, right? Which I assume is the primary change that happens (hence the effect on the gear shifting?). So if I do mix a new load of 500ml, that should *technically* be ok for a 1000 more at least, right?

Well I just had a look at the "Rear Brake Usable Range" and voila it is finished. The rear brake pads have gave up in just 16.5k kms of riding. Already the mechanic had warned me at the Bajaj SC that brakes have been on their last few kms, I ignored him. Now, the rear brake is as good as no brakes. I have a few 500kms trip in coming days and NO time!! I mean NO Time to get the brake pads changed. Let's see how happy is the GOD with me living on Earth?

Guys, do check the usable range of rear brakes on your bikes too. There is a indicator for that on the rear wheel drum.

Nothing happens if you ride for 1000kms. Just change strictly at 4000kms. As far as you are mixing two same oil there is no BAD. You could continue doing that as long you start feeling the need of change. I have done that in my old Classic 150 which eated oil as 1000ml for 1000kms I used to top-up every 300kms 300ml of oil and this way I almost ran the bike 15,000kms without draining even a drop of oil. But, I would'nt advise you doing so.

You could take it to any local mechanic na. Just 10 min swapping work for safe 500 km riding.