Kudos to Motul mainly.
other things are : tight clutch (no free play)
warm up at 6K RPM
I have been practicing since a year.

My bike check her out and my dear friends my riding condition is the best as she gives me 53 average everytime only she started giving me 40 in the past month due to the clutch plates. I always put volvoline 20w50 engine oil in her. And i dont press clutch and ride no never. Yes spoke to the engineer he said u r the only one here who is putting the addictive on his bike now she is doing good and a very good pickup is being taken out from her as compared to the past 1 month. Good I got them changed.

Am I the only one using Bajaj DT-S('shit')- 'I' (Included) 10000 (kicks in the a** of whoever fills it in the bike). My gearshifts are hard, engine running a little harsh and I could'nt take it to higher rpms due to this harshness (couldnot bear the ride crying). Although the engine runs on its normal temperatures. Heck... Heck...

Ideally, clutch should have free play, otherwise you will end-up burning your clutch plates more frequently. Get the clutch lever adjusted as per company for the best performance.

Warm-up@6K rpm whoa!!! I could'nt believe it. You're doing it why and how? Did you take the bike to 6K rpm as soon as you start it in mornings or cold starts? Please don't do that wait for 30 secs at IDLE than drive sedately for 1 km and then start taking it to 6K that's for you only, minimum warm-up specs. but you seem to have developed rules of your own i.e. "lockhrt999 Rules" . What do I follow is warm-up for 30 secs at IDLE (or sometimes 1 min although very rare) and then ride it sedately not going above 2.5K rpm for 3 kms (5 kms for cold mornings) and then I give my mind the permission to have a wonderful experience of spirited riding. (this is also very rare as I hardly take my bike above 3K rpm may be once in 3-4 days).

Your bike is surely a BULLETPROOF one as it has taken up warm-ups @ 6K rpm. That is almost like I wake you up at 6 AM in the morning and say that immediately start running (without doing any other thing) for 2-3 miles.

Nice pictures and yes you might get 53 kmpl with good riding habits no problems. Also, you have put the ADDITIVE (remember from next time it's ADDITIVE not ADDICTIVE as you have written in this post and a couple of former ones.). Press clutch a little, have mercy towards your bike, otherwise you will end-up in a damaged gearbox (untill you're a EXPERT in clutchless gearshifts). Anyway, donot downshift without clutch as it is dangerous.

hi abhichotu.abhi.
thanks for the correction when ever i type i give one flow it happens mate.
Anyways as u recommended me to put the clutch leaver down then change the gear well for your info.. i always do that as i m riding bikes since 12 years now. Me 31 and it is in my soul as i love to keep my bike in a tip top condition.

Well as far a additive is concern I hate in now. Man it is bad for the bike well at least for a 180 and higher bikes maybe as i used to put this in a 150 cc but nothing happened to the bike ever. My last bike was honda unicorn.

Hello,

You only mentioned that you did'nt put the clutch lever down while shifting, do read your post once more. Anyways, leave that.

The additives works like charm, they are good but not for wet clutch bikes, you might put them in the dry clutch bikes and see the difference yourself.

Anyone else on 300v? I've done 3400kms on it and my gears have become slightly harder. (Like they were on that stupid DTSi oil). Also, I've had to top up the oil twice. I'm thinking of doing a partial replacement. I've a new can of 500ml left, will drain out 500 ml from the engine and pour the new one in. Any thoughts? Will go for an oil change at 2600kms from now (a total of 6000kms on Motul).
Also, my clutch is tightened too since my gears became hard. No free-play. Will get it fixed after the oil transfusion.

If I were you than I would have changed Motul 300V at 4000 kms (strictly). Yes, you could do as you wish filling 500ml of new oil. Just make sure you drain the oil in a extremely clean reservoir.

@VD17 how do you top-up? i mean you buy two cans of Motul at a time ?

My clutch is tightened and gear shifts harder...can any one tell me how to fix it manually? without going to SC...

Get your chain tightened, get the clutch play adjusted this plays a major role in harder gearshifts. Remove and refit the gear lever (only if you have no toe shifter gear as in UG4's). Also check for abnormal clutch plates wear. Also try 'Blipping Throttle' method while changing gears.

As you have changed gaskets, why not to try Motul again?

There's a free play of 1.5 cm. Meaning clutch comes into play somewhat after 2 cm. I tightened the clutch wire by fiddling external spring that's all.

I don't pull it to 6K directly. I let it idle for 15 seconds and after that I slowly take the needle to 6K. I then keep it to 6K until it stabilizes.
The roads near my house have gotten really bad because of those fcuking BRT constructions. I can't even shift to 5th gear for almost 3-5 km as there is no tarmac remained on roads. Imagine!!

I'm running on 300v. I'm unable to understand your analogy behind using half litter top ups. These oils are not like fuels that you keep adding and then hope to crunch respective millage according to top up volume.
Basically bikes can run fine on 800ml oil. It's never been like you are running on with 200 ml less oil and due to that a corner of engine might remain dry. So there're no needs for top ups unless your bike becomes chain smoker.

Whenever you're mixing fresh half litter of oil with old oil, you ARE NOT increasing it's life by half in any way. To talk technically you can do with another 200-300 km with that mixture but definitely not 2000km. You are forgetting that motul 300v has double ester, which is a cleaning agent. So oil will always remain impure inside engine for long time no matter how many top ups you do. It needs a complete drain and then refill of fresh 1L.

Some time back then I was using same oil. I had clocked only 2000km on that oil, gear switching became very hard. I thought oil went dead so early but the real problem was with the clutch. It had almost 6-8 cm of free play. But after readjusting the clutch the oil came to real life.

Exactly...servicing at every 2000km and oil drain at 4000km, a perfect combo.

Answers in BOLD.

There will be noticeable difference as bike gets very smooth if you warm up at high RPM.

:O That's something that I have heard the first time. It might be the case, but I am not as DARE as you to try this method out on my bike. I love it too Much... as much as I Love to Live!

My bad....I meant warm up...not warp up.:...silly me.

I got the chain tightened during the last visit to CBZ ...
my clutch is tight.. i need to loosen it a bit... how to do that? care to elaborate ? head