Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Any suggestions to remove Glass Glares?

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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Can't say.
Are you sure none of the light being cut by headlight dome? For a projector I expected the light throw will be a perfect parabola.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Ya, that was speed@rpm I was getting prior to the issue... now its very random!

The Speedo is not at fault, I can tell the speed my bike should be doing, which it's not reaching.... Have also ridden along with friends, takes some time to catch up with them with this lag, but when I do the speed does match

Most answers point towards the clutch plate, clutch cable is a new answer... Will have to start with that, thanks Also cleaning the carb!

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Happy Riding!

My ride's behavior was very similar at that mileage, except the FE of course :P

Best times

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Will add Spark Plugs to the checklist,

Current Order - Clutch Cable -> Carb Cleaning -> Clutch plates -> Spark Plugs

Changed my sprockets at about 4k KMS back, so not going to bother with it!

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Well maybe that's because of the glass.
Can you tell me where can I buy the front glass online?


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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

There are some manufacturers listed on indiamart who make this glass. I don't know if they can sell online.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Going to get visuals like this..

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Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

[MENTION=61791]Cleaner[/MENTION]: I've been thinking a lot and I can't seem to find a reason why we can't use two OEM RR in parallel to manage additional power from a rewinded stator coil.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

@lockhrt999 AFAIK it is because "Energy can be neither created nor destroyed, but can change form." The stator assembly converts mechanical energy to electrical energy, the RR just converts the AC current to DC and regulates the voltage to be around 14 volts throughout the rev range. No matter how you connect multiple RRs, be it in parallel or in series, it will not generate more electrical energy as there is no more mechanical energy left in the stator to convert to electrical energy. For instance the output of Ape RR is 1:1 meaning if the stator churns out 1 amps of current the DC output from the RR would be 1 amps. Even if you connect the Ape RR to stock coil, you are not going to get more output than the stock RR. The stock RR is made to handle the maximum amount of power produced by the stator, hence there is no improvement even if you upgrade the RR or connect multiple RRs in parallel.

It would show improvement if the RR was the bottleneck, which is not the case here. Now, if you want to run a 60/55w bulb without draining the battery with reliability same as stock bike. I'm just a PM away.


The charging system of Pulsar is single phase IIRC. For me, I'd rather get a Ape RR and get the coil rewinded with 17 gauge wire.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

55w bulb of P220? How do you manage the high/low beam function? P220 uses 55w H7 bulbs which are single beam.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Can you not read I mentioned rewinded coil. This is the third or fourth time you're lecturing me on stock stator coil.

What you told is electronics 101.

Except two RR in serial won't work as they will produce ~24v and it will definitely kill the electricals.
And there is no 1:1 power conversion with any type of electrical instrument leave alone AC to DC using RR. Even if you use an RR from a ferrari there will be 20% drop at minimum always.
Have you seen heatsink attached to an RR. Do you think it heats up from rider's bums? There never has been 1:1 anything in the history of mankind.
I wanted to have some healthy discussion on the idea which just struck to my mind but you keep lecturing me on 101 basics again and again. I have started to feel like a retard now.

I've got 55/60W bulb running since a year and half.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

Multiple RRs should work with a rewinded coil but at low RPMs the amps would be low compared to a "high power" single stator, that's what I was told. You may be already aware that I suffer from some kind of mental disorder and quite retarded sometimes, so you do not have feel like a retard, the retarded one is indeed me

By 1:1 I mean that some RRs cut off the supply after certain amps is reached but the Ape RR does not do that. The setup my friend is running currently on his P180 produces around 20 amps at 7K RPM. Pretty good output for a 7 pole single phase stator. Planning to wind it in Delta mode and use with Duke's RR someday.

Re: Bajaj Pulsar 180 (All Versions)

First of all if this works, there will a less money invested as purchasing another RR is less expensive than Ape RR. This idea is possible and difficult to implement on 3 phase but we have single phase anyway.

See I want to create something that's reliable and will last a decade. I don't think Ape RR is good idea because this RR will be creating a lot more amps even when there is no need. I think the battery may end up dead due to overcharging or regular electricals like BCU might get fried over the time.

With HID kits, we also need to think about reactance. With over amps and cheap low quality made in china ballasts will produce massive induction and cause electrical arcs inside switches and relays.
Cars have alternators which basically provides dynamic output. It provides only necessary amount of electricity at any given moment. It'll output low amps when not many electricals are turned on and high amps when you have everything headlights, blower etc going on.

What I'm suggesting is a use of two stage system. I suggest we use two sets wires(double than stock and on same ground) on stator coil and those wires linked to two different RRs. Now as the number of turns, direction etc will be same for both wires so they will create same phase AC so I see no problem here for using two RR in parallel. In first stage the electricals will work like a stock bike, charging battery and running pilot lamps. Second stage is activated when you turn on the headlights, this stage will enable second RR by a relay. Now with second RR running we have ample electricity available which I could put in the bike electricals or skip that and directly supply it to headlamps.
I'm already running a 55/60W bulb on stock system now. With the above setup I could easily manage 55W HID with 55W halogen running simultaneously. But ^ it's all theoretical for now.