First of all if this works, there will a less money invested as purchasing another RR is less expensive than Ape RR. This idea is possible and difficult to implement on 3 phase but we have single phase anyway.

See I want to create something that's reliable and will last a decade. I don't think Ape RR is good idea because this RR will be creating a lot more amps even when there is no need. I think the battery may end up dead due to overcharging or regular electricals like BCU might get fried over the time.

With HID kits, we also need to think about reactance. With over amps and cheap low quality made in china ballasts will produce massive induction and cause electrical arcs inside switches and relays.
Cars have alternators which basically provides dynamic output. It provides only necessary amount of electricity at any given moment. It'll output low amps when not many electricals are turned on and high amps when you have everything headlights, blower etc going on.

What I'm suggesting is a use of two stage system. I suggest we use two sets wires(double than stock and on same ground) on stator coil and those wires linked to two different RRs. Now as the number of turns, direction etc will be same for both wires so they will create same phase AC so I see no problem here for using two RR in parallel. In first stage the electricals will work like a stock bike, charging battery and running pilot lamps. Second stage is activated when you turn on the headlights, this stage will enable second RR by a relay. Now with second RR running we have ample electricity available which I could put in the bike electricals or skip that and directly supply it to headlamps.
I'm already running a 55/60W bulb on stock system now. With the above setup I could easily manage 55W HID with 55W halogen running simultaneously. But ^ it's all theoretical for now.

I have pulser 180 cc ug4 which have done 4600 km and done 2 sevices.I had engine noise problem and mechnic said to tune the carburetor. Thenthe problem started like beat siund from engine and starting problems. I have installed k&n air filter R 1100.now my bike making vibrations ,noise and not smooth. I have said mechnic to retune.but thats not helping I tuned anti clock wise up to 6 tuns was 4 before even its not solving.and tried 4.5, 5 5.5.please help me because my bike always over heats and giving bad performance. is that the problem of carburetor.

upto 50 kmpl is not possible, I guess. Even the P150 gives mileage in that range. So definitely, 40 kmpl is what I expect.
For your sports mode ride, it should be in the range of 35 kmpl

Some people who think that am lying about FE, i can prove it only if you come to my place. Got no other reply.

My air filter now.k&n r 1100

Got the stickers now the only thing left is rear rim.

Are you going to paint it or what?