re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

You tuned the carb yesterday only, between you got the FE checked!
Check FE couple of times before deciding that FE has dropped.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Actually the i haven`t ridden bike from last 5 days as its raining heavily here. This weekend have planned for outdoor ride to lonawala, Will check & see if seals need to change or not..
The reason behind tuning is one of my friend have Bajaj avenger n he says he get average of around 38-40 km/l when ridden in 70-90 km/hr, so i should get more as avenger is 220 cc , your is 150 cc & i was like . Even another friend who rides apache he too claims FE of around 45-50 km/l when ridden in same speed. So is this common average figure for FE(40-43km/l in same speed range) of all xtreme..?
Throttle response seem to be fine, I tried opening spark plug but was not able to open it, so instead of putting more force to open left it as it is, don`t want to get any any trouble. Will get it opened at ASC in next visit.
One more question how long we can ride on reserve mode? I had ridden 70 kms & later filled up in fear of running out of fuel

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

FE is affected by many factors , speed of driving , throttle position , nature of tune , aerodynamics , quality of fuel etc . Apache is 15-20 kg lighter than Xtreme hence it has slightly better FE but with higher capacity it is compensated. Try changing fuel station and calculate FE by reserve to reserve method , though it is not accurate , most accurate will be graduated fuel bottle test .

Check if chain tension is good, brakes are not binding and clutch play is within limits as all these

If your bike has done 6-7k kms shift to Veedol Takeoff premium 10w30 , best oil for Xtreme. Change interval of 2-2500 kms

Since i tuned my bike as per sibun's method , character of bike changed from commuter to redliner , above 6K pull is very hard and it has no problem touching 9K and it feels 6th gear should be given to put down such power , FE increased from 40-43 to 50kmpl always under sedate city conditions and 55-58kmpl on highways. There is no universal AFR screw setting as it depends upon altitude condition in which bike has been tuned .

Forks blowing oil seals this early isnt common, clean fork using detergent water and ride for some time , if oil comes back , seals are gone .

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hello all !

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Hi Man, again after a long time ?

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk


This is the condition of the plug when I took it out before tuning today..
It looks reddish brown and the black ring is due to the worn out valve oil seal.

So I tuned it by your method and the rpm hanging problem has gone to an extent by slightly noticeable....
But it hangs exactly at 2,200 rpm before dropping...
Will it go over time ??

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Even my next ride will be a closed loop FI, looking towards the new ZMR.

No wheel alignment will not take a hit as the un evenness in wear of brakes is too minuscule to warrant the alignment to take a hit. In fact you must make a practice that each time the axle nut is loosened, it is tightened by centering the brakes.



Hi!, what yaar after long time and only Hello. Come-on we are missing you as you are the longest owner of extreme in this thread presently. Come on say something about you and your bike.
Plug condition looks good and tuning is also Ok. Was your tappets adjusted recently by mechanics or showroom guys. If it has been adjusted recently or has been checked in last 7-8000 km then reply me and i will help as i think it is a tappet out of sync problem.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

First of all i request all members to please check their tappets ASAP , just a check adjust if needed . I am telling this because after i fixated on vacuum leak problem , the idling was still poor after a day and horrendous fuel economy . Due to low running i didnt bother to check tappets and there was no sound of them either. But sibun and shoeb both had advied me to check tappets first , i was reluctant as when it came to engine i am no professional and never have done that before. Sibun told due to valve seat wear my tappets were out of sync and may be loose or tight which can be only known after opening head cover. Now even opening head cover is hectic as just slight amount of torque will strip threads , i had to proceed with caution.

1. I let bike rest for 3-4 hours before opening head cover, additionally placed a wet cloth all over engine to make sure it was cold before adjustment.
2. Removed spark plug
3. Removed tank and tubes , kept it over piece of rubber mat.
4. Removed seat and opened #12 bolt. it has some sort of brass collar , it is bound to fall keep that in mind
5. loosened SAI bolts and removed pipe by pulling it out of fabric like cover.
6. Used a ring spanner to slightly loosen #10 bolts of head cover , then used T spanner to open it , one of the bolt is not completely vertical , slightly tilted , make sure to go slow on these bolts.

For first time i saw how beautiful engine looks , those rockers , tappets etc

Put bike in 5th gear and started turning wheel anticlock at same time seeing for T mark on flywheel ( opening of inspection cover needed by #6 allen )

This is something one can get wrong , T mark comes twice as engine is 4 stroke , i needed to make sure its in compression stroke TDC , at cTDC both valves are closed , and at another exTDC exhaust will be open , latter is exhaust stroke.

now to my horror, both tappets were running tight like hell ,

Inlet ------ Spec-------------Mine
*********.08mm ********>.03mm

Exhast------Spec-------------Mine
*********.12mm*******.07-.06mm

Now called up sibun which he said to set in at .07 and exhaust at .1 , But one would ask why not spec? Reason here is rocker wear , we compensate for rocker wear by setting tappet slightly tighter , My bike has done 13K and it was bound to have wear.

Loosened inlet lock nut and let me tell actually one may need a tappet adjustment tool , but it "can" be done using fingers , given one has long thin fingers like me , i tried to get this tappet tool numerous times but never found it.

Then pulled out .07mm feeler strip and started setting clearance , another fact, measuring clearance is like a skill , even being extremely cautious , i ended up making bit of scratches on feeler strip , shoeb told never ever force feeler in , lube it and if it doenst go through , more clearance is reqd.

While trying to set gap, most of the time after i tightened lock nut, somehow clearance becomes tight , to this i recalled @paul.1911 had told to lift tappet and tighten locknut , upon doing this i instantly got desired gap .

Moved on to exhaust and set it to .1 . Final check inlet was at .07-.08 , exhaust was at .10-.12.

Reassembled all parts , did a little prayer that i didnt mess up my engine and proceed to start it , it didnt start
Oh yes spark plug wasnt fitted , fitted back plug , started it and it runs
One more thing fit rubber gasket in head cover groove first and clean all seating area of head with bit of petrol. So that it firmly seats upon tightening of cover.

Next morning went for a drive to see how the newfound setting works , now i may contradict some people here about top end of Xtreme which is mentioned as 114-115kmph

On flat road , WOT , low wind condition i touched phenomenal 118-119kmph , that too i didnt know what AFR i was running. To check whether 119 mark was true , i checked top end 2-3 times and found Xtreme if properly maintained easily crosses 120kmph mark. Pop in 42 rear sprocket , it will surely go 120+.

Called up sibun and he too confirmed tight tappets were causing poor running of bike, once adjusted it just goes beyond 7k to 9K pretty easily. He too has done 120+ many times.

While driving back , i had an epiphany there was a vacuum leak still somewhere though not much but enough to make idle jump . Parked bike and pulled out SAI pipe and the demon is finally found. upon bending the brass nipple , the base showed marks of crack all around.

As advised i rode back , let engine cool and filled cracks and all around it with sealant. After 1-2 hour i checked for idle and it was much much better than before , constantly held 1200.

Today i will retune mix as my engine is running slightly lean . If needed will get new inlet manifold insulator .

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Is it possible to adjust tappets without removing tank? Last time my mech adjusted it without removing tank. He just opened the head cover and flywheel inspection cover.

Tapatalked from my Canvas A76

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Sure , many experienced members do that way , as said i was being careful so that i dont mess anything up . Also it was first time i adjusted them , and i found space for work is pretty less if tank isnt removed.

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

So finally I have changed my rear tyre to MRF Zapper Q 110/90.
Its a all terrain tyre and great looker too, leaning angles are now smooth braking is improved, no more fishtail, wet grip is also good, price is ₹1900 in Delhi.

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re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Pics plz... Bro..

Tapatalked from my Canvas A76

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Yup dude your suggestions are spot on..!!!!
A couple of weeks back the bike was struggling to pull in higher gears and cold starts were requiring a little throttle..
The kick was also feeling loose...

Drove the bike like this for a couple of days and then went to a road side mechanic and told him to adjust the tappets..
But he did'nt had a feeler gauge so I went back home and decided to set it myself next morning on cold engine..

I had already thought of skipping it if the valve covers did'nt open, but everything went fine.
The intake valve was too tight almost was'nt closing on cold engine(I could hear the air escape when I cranked it)..
As i dont have a feeler gauge so I adjusted the tappets so that the valve was'nt depressed when the engine was at TDC.
I kicked the bike after that and it was very hard like on a new engine.

Also the term I often heard was that "tappets get loose"
Mine always gets tighter with time such that intake valve is not able to close fully on a cold engine.
Also it happens to intake valve only.
Usually it takes around 10,000 K.M.S for this problem to show up....
Any reason for that ???

Also during carburetor overhaul there was too much carbon inside the intake port due to faulty valve oil seal.
So I sprayed a little spirit inside the port with valve closed and left it overnight.
This is before cleaning.

This one was taken on the last carburetor overhaul.

Notice the gunk has started to loosen and is being sucked inside during engine breaking..
My fear is that will it block the valve seat so that bike won't start due to leak in compression from the valve seat..is that a possibility

Thanks a ton for your time and patience on my problem buddy..
I just hope that someday I'll be able to help someone like you
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Hero Hunk crash guard effectivenes..

Hii friends,

I just bought a Hero Hunk but unfortunately a small accident occurred as the bike fell off when it was steady...Since it fell to the right side I could do nothing from preventing it from falling down. My doubt is is will falling down cause a fork bend or something like that?? Will the handle bar bend when the bike falls down when it is stationary?? I had a small scratch on the front brake and the silencer cover and of course the crash guard too....How effective is the crash guard??

re: CBZ xtreme / Hunk

Zapper q is a tarmac Tyre, mrf meteor is all terrain

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