Honda has discontinued Green and Purple colors of Dio.These two colors were in great demand, don't know why they stopped the production.

i never liked those colors - maybe honda heard me this time
btw the white one looks awesome!

Hey my dads activa is giving starting issues if its left off for about 2hrs, my battery is ok its amaron bought it few months back, and have to kick the bike around 40 times to start it, the clutch is ok my mech checked the valve too, but when my Dad took it to another mech he said change the valve, is that the issue? Coz my friend had the same issue and he had changed the valve but had the issue again after a month. I'm not able to zero in on what is causing the problem, every mech says something else, any idea ppl?

you will have cold starting trouble if the valve clearances are incorrect(on the tighter side).or it could be a case of a carb that needs to be cleaned and tuned correctly, or a bad spark plug/plug cap.
first get the valve clearances adjusted from a Authorized svc and check the spark plug and/or replace it with a new one along with a new plug cap.while you are at it, replace the fuel tubes/pipes and clean the air filter also.

So the valve adjustment needs to be done inly at the A.S.C?

the valve adjustment can be done anywere, even by you if you are familiar with it. But i guess you are not. I suggested the asc because it would be a safer bet if you do not know any reliable mechanic.
It is a 15min job. and the correct values for valve clearances are mentioned in theuser manual.

I went to my mech, he did a full checkup and said I need to replace the valve and the bike was drinking oil too so he recommended I also rebuild half engine, so all together its gonna cost me 3k.

ok if its drinking oil (i guess your oil level was dropping and a smokey exhaust), sounds fair enough for a top end rebuild. but did you ask him what were the things going to be done apart from the valve kit replacement. Is he advising you for a rebore+new piston kit or replacing the entire block and piston with a standard sized one from honda.
3k sounds a bit high for a valve kit replacement and rebore job while its tooo low for a new block+piston kit.

It was valve kit replacement and rebore, I got it done

do share ur short and long term experience...about how the work was done what is the performance before and after and what over size piston u used and stuff

umm.. keep it slow and steady the first 1000km. btw how much did the valve kit cost ? and was it the oem?

i was on my 'rounds' to pick up some oil, spares and a wash for my dio that is due for a service tomorrow.
I actually wanted to buy an air filter and engine oil (shell ax5), so my first stop was water wash wala... guess what 'saaar power cut' (damn it hyderabad power scene!)
Ok next stop > spares shop (not Honda ASC cos i need to run behind them at least two times to get all i want, just a nice big spares shop close to where i live) - 'ordered' an air filter (cost 150rs, original filter) and was on the phone with a friend who just called.. blah blah blah.. and i hung up, meanwhile i noticed some 'boxes being moved in to the spares shop and noticed that they were Castrol oil's, original right from the distributor!! So i thought why not buy the castrol gearless scooter oil since i was sure this is genuine stuff. so picked up one bottle (mrp 245, i paid rs230). And i noticed that this was a 20w40 JASO MB oil, while the shell ax5 was a MA oil.

And one more interesting thing i noticed here in hyderabad, the castrol's are fast being 'replaced' by the elf's and wurth's.. most shops that had the good ol' castrol signboard's have almost all 'converted' to elf and wurths!

Going for the service tomorrow (and the water wash later on today).. i hope the oil performs as well as the shell ax5.

@sid

the lower the friction modifiers..the better for geared bikes right?(with wet clutch)

hence MA2 will have less friction modifiers and hence MB if recommended for scoots should have more friction modifiers..if it were other way round...MB with less friction modifieres should be recommended for geared wet clutch bikes...

i stand corrected. my way of putting it in my previous post was wrong, so ive edited it out. You are correct when you say lower the friction modifiers the better for geared bikes.
bottom line, stick to MA or MA2 for geared bikes with wet clutches, and MB for ungeared/dry clucth bikes.
And i while i was reading the label on the oil can it was clearly mentioned 'To be used only in gearless scooter engines, not to be used in motorcycle engines'

Back from the service. Nothing can beat the feel of a new air filter and a perfectly tuned carb. IMO these paper type filters definitely need to be changed every year or every 8k km. Cleaning these (especially on these scoots) don't seem to be restoring the 'clean/new' filter feel, my filter looked like it had just watched a horror movie (with those strands of paper standing up on the filter- this filter is an year (and 7000km) old.
And like i said i changed to the castrol gearless scooter oil (using it for the first time), and i will wait for a few 100km before making a comment on that. Apart from that had to replace the valve cover gasket (cost 50rs.)