Could you help us little nerds with a DIY for the same? You went for Bi-Xenon or single Beam? I have heard that most of the guys end up with a broken Reflective plastic dome contraption. The common method is to use a heat gun to loosen up the glue and then gently remove the reflective dome.. Heat resistant paint should help although if i am correct HID doesn't heat up that much!

i know i am greedy but such DIY will help us folks in getting our hands dirty easy peasy. P.S.: Make it Noob friendly.. much needed!!

Would recommend that you install a relay if you haven't.

Cheers,

Knocking sound from bike's silencer

Hi guys, A weird knocking sound comes from my bike's silencer and this happens when i start my bike , this knocking sound comes occasionally in between the normal thumping sound. What would be the reason for it? And at times while on a ride the bike suddenly for a split second jerks/behaves as if the engine is turned off and then revives back, would this be also be due to the the knocking sound which comes up?

I face the second thing you mention but I havent noticed the knocking sound. Not sure what is causing this.
Some blockage in the fuel lines or something??

No worries mate.
I'm pretty sure I've got the same light as Luc. Not much variety of parts in VN, pretty much everyones got the same stuff for sale.
Its a single HID bulb with a flap/gate that lifts up to allow light past it.



Removing the clear headlight lens.
You can use a oven, heatgun or your mums/sisters hairdryer (or your own)
The previous installer had left the heatgun blowing on a single spot too long (the clip) and bubbled the plastic.
I put it in the oven, set it to 150deg C for about 4 mins. Be careful where you rest it, wet cardboard, wooden slats are preferred to the steel grid in the ovens.
I removed it from the oven using oven mitts and gently, slowly pried it apart using wide screwdrivers to hold it open and a thin screwdriver to "break" the webs of sealant. Don't let it get on the inside of the lens if you can help it. It is a real ***** to get off. I was working from the top corners down.
DO NOT USE ACETONE ON THE CLEAR PLASTIC LENS. YOU WILL FOG/HAZE IT PERMANENTLY!!!
I used acetone sparingly on the edge where the sealant was difficult to remove using cotton buds. You can pull the sealant out slowly with a steady pressure. I tried reusing it, even after reheating it numerous times I ended up tossing it and getting High temp RTV Silicone. (Wasted 1hr there)

Cleaning and prepping the reflector
I got a heap of cotton wool, dipped it in the wifes nail polish remover and went to town rubbing away on it. I ended up getting a fan to blow the fumes away as they were ok to start with but soon got a little irritating. The silver paint comes off and clogs the cotton ball, needs frequent turning and replacing.
After a couple hrs I got most of it off, I hit it with a scotchbrite pad to roughen up the surface so the paint sticks.

Time to remove the left over sealant
Using a slotted screwdriver I poked up one end and started pulling it slowly. It would come off in a long piece. Kept doing this until it was all gone. Acetone helps loosen and dissolve this adhesive.
Get the housing washer the one with 3 arms on it and make the slots larger if needed. You can use a small file or a hot screwdriver/soldering iron.
Note they only fit 1 way as the arms are not equidistant around the washer. There is also a key in the washer that lines up with the projectors groove cut in the threaded rear. There is TOP written along one of these grooves so you will need to orient that upwards.
I took this opportunity to file down the rough tool marks from the installer. Smoothed it down as best I could and gave the reflector a good scrub under a running tap.
Hung it up to dry.

Prepping for painting
After it dried I got some alcohol swabs and rubbed the reflector surface down. After I cleaned it I didn't touch the surface. I held the back where the light is positioned. there is a half circle ridge/wall and I held onto that. I had also screwed the height adjustment bracket back in and used that to loop some string through so I can hang the reflector up, also to hold it.
I took a hairdryer and started heating up the reflector and shook the paint can. Just matt black spray paint as I can't find any high temp paint.
Warmed up both paint and reflector (I had set the reflector on the floor)
Holding the previously mentioned ridge I began spray painting it. After the first coat I would hit it with the hairdryer (blow hot air) and help the paint dry, Hang it up and come back in 20 mins or so. Repeating the process until about 5 coats of paint was done.
I put 5 coats of paint as I had no plastic primer so I was unsure how well the paint will stick to a plastic surface. If you can get plastic primer it may help before the black paint. You want a non reflective backing now as your projector housing has a built in reflector, lens to focus the light etc.


Installing the projector module into the newly painted reflector. Be careful what you touch and make sure you have clean hands!!!
Now after leaving it to dry overnight (actually it was around 1am and yes I do keep rockstar/unemployed hours. Going to bed around 4-5 am, waking up 10-11am)
Before going further you want to check your clear lens will fit. Do a test fit and make sure its not broken etc. Unclip it and pop it off. Set it aside for now.
I got my light housing. It has 3 silicone washers that cushion the back of the projector housing stem/threaded section to the plastic reflector section.
Set the locking washer into the now enlarged notches in the back of the reflector.
Get the housing threaded section through the hole, Bring your angel eye + demon eye wires through the side notch in the reflector (left side of the hole) I had to unscrew and rotate the lens housing so the wires were on the correct side, also I had to reset the lens and screw in a locking screw that had worked loose. There are 3 of these locking tabs. Don't tighten too much or you may chip or crack the lens.
Run the wires through the tightening nut 1 by 1 or they won't fit. There may or may not be a small phillips head screw with a small tab to anchor wires in place located on the back of the threaded section. Remove this then you can spin the nut on and slowly tighten and check for alignment of the housing. Line it all up so the TOP is at the top, projector points straight (not to the side like previously) and tighten up the nut.
There is a rubber grommet with 3 holes in it, Threaded on the outside. These have the leads for the bulb and accessories running through them.
Anytime you need to rest the reflector light down I lay it on a clean soft towel.
Time to put the waterproofing cap on with the 2 drain tubes pointing down of course.....
That round rubber grommet with threads on the outside, This "screws" into the rubber cap. I just pushed it until it was level. Be careful as you may break wires as you are sliding the cap + grommet assembly into place. Take your time.
Now that's done you can get the clear lens clipped in

Clear lens install
If you have any alignment issues with the new projector NOW is the time to make the adjustments. Once the lens is on then you will have to start over again.
I used High Temp RTV silicone as the sealant. Run a nice bead deep in the groove of the reflector. Make it nice and even. Slow and even pressure on the tube as you work your way around.
Let it get a skin on it. This will take about 3-5 mins. While your waiting for that skin check your clear lens. I got more alcohol swabs and started cleaning the inside of the lens. I had noticed this fingerprint on the inside of the lens a few days after I bought my bike (almost 1yr ago) It drove me nuts every time I saw it. No one else can see it but its one of those "Once you have seen it" you can't help but notice it type things. I took this opportunity to remove it. I thought I did, But it came back
Cut up 4 or more pieces of masking tape into approx 3-4 inches and leave these within easy reach.
You need to be careful and slip n slide the cover on. Once its on get a piece of tape and tape the lens to the reflector tight.
Leave it for a few hrs to cure. I had left the pilot/park bulb out so the fumes can escape.

Wiring this headlight
I can't comment on other kits as this came with harness and was installed by a "local ghetto installer" recommended by the Vendor.
With this "kit" if you can call it there is a wiring harness with relay, inline fuse to (+) on the battery, (-) crimped eyelet, clips for high beam, the angel eye and demon eye if applicable supplied. The harness plugs into the existing 3 pronged headlight plug.
You will need to purchase a ballast and extra switch if you want to toggle the angel eye separately.

You can see the wiring harness in my 2nd pic, Look for the vertical white zip tied silver ballast box just before 12 o'clock position, the red (+) lead and misc wires.

I did a few tests to make sure the light and its features were working before soldering.
I tapped into the existing wires carefully with thought going into "How can I completely disconnect the headlight assembly without having to cut wires" and splicing and soldering into the headlight side of the clips/plugs.
As I had already my park light power lines spliced into with my side emblems, it was easy to ID and to confirm I just followed my pilot/park light at the bottom of my headlight up to the plug.
I now had a fully functioning high beam. Angel eye was hooked up to my park lights. If you want to trigger these separately then you will need to wire up to another switch.

I re routed the wires to run down the left side of the frame, Following the existing wires.
Who ever designed the rubber boot/enclosure for the wiring harness plugs needs to be shot! Who designs a water catchment to enclose wiring plugs? the boot opens and closes from the top with the little rubber "porcupine quills" for lack of a better word getting pulled through a hole in the opposite side. There is openings along the top where the 2 sides meet and if/when water gets inside it has no where to drain!! This should have been upside down so the opening is at the bottom.....

I run the red power lead down the side, through the other rubber "strap" that has the throttle cable, wiring to the gearbox, 2 breather hoses strapped and under the tank between the base of the tank and the frame. there is a small enough gap for the wire to pass through, then just routed the wire neatly following the main red lead for the starter to the (+) terminal of my battery. I further cleaned up the previously bundled and zip tied wires running them along the left side of the frame between the plastic outer mold of the tank and the frame. The relay was relocated to sit up under the front base of the tank.

It is a much neater way of running the wires, though it took me around 2-3hrs to get the headlight rewired and about 10mins to get the headlight bolted back on.

Hope that helps. Yes it is a very time consuming job to do if you want to do it right.
Take your time and you get a great looking end result.

Mik, you should write a book you know?
I promise to download it :P

hahahaha. thanks mate. Its a pretty long winded version of saying heat the light, remove lens and sealant, paint, put in light and screw it in, replace lens, wire up and bolt back together. I'm not the best at writing my thoughts down so it sometimes gets lost in translation from my mind to the keyboard.

I wrote that off the top of my head but I think I got all the steps except for the 2X10mm bolts that hold and allow the light to pivot and the 10mm bolt locking it in position
then there's the 2 hex head bolts (5mm?) that the FZS headlight side plates/covers screw into position with. There is the top plate on the headlight fixed with 3 phillips head screws.

Hi buddiez . . .got ma blue lord ystrday . . .itz simply suprb. . .handling ,gear shifting ,low end torque . . .evrything is awsme. . .but got a lil prob. . .the break lights arent turning off unless the key is off . . .even turning off engine kill isnt turning break light off. . .any solution. . ?

I feel, change the petrol bunk IMMEDIATELY!! and also use System G 1ml per ltr. Do two tank fulls along with the System G. After warming up the engine and then riding her for 3-4 kms under 4000 rpms, then belt the daylights out of her on every gear. Do two runs and then see if there is any difference. You may have witnessed air lock/vapour lock in the fuel lines or else dirt/gum getting into the system.

IMP: After two tank fulls with the system G, drain the carb by detaching the draining screw to get rid of excess gum/dirt built up inside the tank. Never run your ride on reserve all the time.


If the problem still persists then it is wise to take her to the SVC and then let them trouble shoot it.


Cheers,

For the second part regarding the jerking. Are you riding @ 40kph in 5th gear by any chance? or in a high gear, low road speed and low engine speed?
Lugging the engine will do this.
You can see your bike doing it while stationary.
Pop it up on the center stand, start the bike and work your way upto 5th gear.
Don't touch the throttle and leave it to idle. Notice the "bucking" and jerking the rear wheel does. Whereas you drop it down a couple cogs and its much smoother.

Mate check the front brake light switch near the lever. Push the lever completely outwards and see whether brake light is turning off...else check also rear brake light switch near the rear right foot rest.

i second summrs......standing ovation mik...... from today onwards u'll b called "mik the guru"... :P

Maintain spark plug clearance and cleanliness.. In the morning its cold and not functioning well. In motion it is missing sparks (Just my opinion)

Yea every time in the morning when i start my bike it doesn't stay idle and just turns off. Then it would not start again if i use the electric switch i have to use the kicker to start it again and after revving it for some time it will stay idle.

yes arya, the headlight button was in off position... stranger part is it was fine nxt day morning .....occured once as of now....

hey does engine kill switch turns off the tail light?? it wont i guess.... but the headlight button shld surely do it...

Thanks for your reply. I will change the petrol bunk as you said, but normally how much ever petrol i fill i always used to let the switch to be in reserve mode.