@muztariq Thanks for providing some more information..
I got a Clear idea now

I always thought that the FFE would help the bike breathe easy. You are right about the dudes...one had a stock R15v2 with 46 written on it.He sold it and bought FZ-S. Another is quite an experienced biker,owned an FZ for 3 years,now bought an R15v2. The second guy's opinion was still believable.Nobody had locally manufactured FFEs.

To all: Will it be tooooo much if I plonk in 2 60/55w headlamps of i20 for dual beam illumination on my Fazer? Quite happy with the dual beam HIDs...but the recent discussions here has made me curious.Am sure the puny little battery cant take the load of 110w from the headlamps.There are chances of dimming and not giving full glow,right?

Very very very dangerous method. I cannot emphasize that strongly enough!
Please don't do it that way anymore.

Working in the oil and gas industry we have a lot of safety rules and regulations now. We used to see guys with missing finger tips, fingers and in some cases hands working. How did they loose their body parts? Chances are by getting caught somewhere where you shouldn't need to put your hands and fingers.

Try this, Next time before cleaning your chain or washing your bike, Get a raw chicken drumstick/leg or even a pencil. The bone thickness is about the size of your finger.
Now introduce the bone to the sprocket and chain, Engine turned off, Bike on center stand of course! safety first!!! Look at what it does when it grabs the bone and brings it around the sprocket. Now imagine this is your finger or hand, other body part. Do you think you can get that crushed part repaired?
With the engine spinning the rear wheel will you be able to stop the wheel? No, your bodypart will be carried all the way around until the sprocket releases it.

The method of chain cleaning posted above is a "quick" once over, splash on a bit of oil hoping it doesn't flick everywhere and create another mess you need to clean, But you don't actually achieve a good end result. Similar to instead of taking a shower/bath you just spray deodorant all over yourself hoping to disguise the body odor.

How can the bristles get inside, in between the links when they are moving too fast for the bristle to be able to get inside and clean?
You really shouldn't be encouraging people to put their fingers/tools close to rotating objects and Pinch Points, especially chains and sprockets. There is a reason there is a (partial) chain guard on (this) bike. To stop your body parts getting too close. I got my thumb "bitten" by the rear sprocket when cleaning the chain with a rag, I was daydreaming about something (girls most likely) and I was rubbing the chain and pushing it towards the rear sprocket when I suddenly felt a sharp pain in my thumb nail!! Imagine if the wheel was spinning in 1st gear!

A safer and slightly longer way is putting your bike on the center stand and spinning the rear tyre by hand. This way you can actually see the condition of the chain, What parts are getting cleaned and where extra attention is needed to get the dirt out, Not to mention you see your tyre also, check the condition of it, any nails embedded in it you didn't see last time, condition of the rear sprocket and give that a clean too.

Then when you go to pour your lube or spray the lube, Make sure it goes on the inside of the chain ie the top section of the lower chain under the swingarm. That way when you ride your bike the centrifugal force will push the oil through instead of just flicking it off and making another mess.
You can also lube a section, skip a section, lube again and skip until you have gone around the chain, spin the chain a few times and see if the lube has make its way around.
Then before you drop the bike off the center stand get a clean rag, rub the chain soaking up excess lube that would have flicked off, getting not only yourself dirty but your bike, pillion and other riders dirty.

I'll leave you with this saying.
"Don't stick your fingers in anywhere that you wouldn't put your c0ck"

Ask Lucky Luke. He's got dual projectors in his Fazer..Beautiful lights, fantastic vision at night time!!! I was riding next to him and behind him and I had to keep checking that my FZ's headlight was working!! I thought about just switching off my headlight and using his to light up the path!

I got a 55W kit from MXS Motosport. Red demon, with a white angel. Specifically asked them for the lowest kelvin rating they had, got a 5000k set. Any higher and the light scatters and blinds oncoming traffic, not to mention illegal in India.

Totally worth the change, driving through places without streetlamps ( theres too many places like that than what should be if you ask me) is so much better and easier. Though I had to adjust my head pivot by boring a larger gap.

Oh, and and looks dead sexy :P

Yes, that is spectacular, isn't it? Even better now that I have adjusted the height properly, which the $)%&*%^# who did the installation had neglected doing!

I low beam, I would say that I have a very white light, very wide, and with a crisp cut "at the top", not bothering anybody in opposite direction, while giving excellent vision to a distance I would estimate something like 50 meters. In high beam, it is still the same wide and white light of course since what makes the change from low to high is a electromagnetically controlled little "mask" inside the bulb, but the range is, I reckon, a good 200meters.

Additionally, I have the blue angel eyes around the projector, and flexible LED around the bottom, giving not only a mean look but actually enough light for city riding. Cops do not stop me although I am supposed to be in low beam.

That is what it looks like (I have not taken pictures in night time). I shall replace the yellowish original little light by a bluish LED too:

^^ @ LuckyLuke: Are these 60/55w or 35w HIDs?

Guys..whats the life of the rear brake shoes..... the svc people are saying that my bike's rear brake is gone.....I am doubting it as my ride is only 6900 kms old..

I really doubt that, my FZs rear shoes are still doing strong after 12000km and expecting another 1000 to go. Please check it with another SC.

Completely agree with you.

It could be, depending on how you use your rear brake. Are you with always some "contact" of your foot on the pedal, are you systematically using your rear brake, essentially doing town riding...?? 90% depends on your riding style.

To check: how far are you on the adjustment on the threaded section of the rear brake rod? Unless you have taken the lever off and repositioned it differently, if you are near the end of the threaded section, your brake shoes are gone. Better, anyway, to make sure by having the wheel taken off, and not hesitate to change the pads, even rectify the drum if needed: this is your life on the bike (plus the one of others on the road).

Hi,

Don't mind me asking but are you by any chance following the practice the Indian riders go for that one should only use the rear brake and not the front brake as they consider using front brake is dangerous?? If so then that is wrong.. If not then you might have been putting your right foot on rest on the rear brake pedal which results in rear drum brake getting engaged and as a result rear brakes going kaput in a short duration/kms.

When you get the rear brake replaced then adjust the rear brake foot height so that it doesnot get engaged..

Based on my riding style in the cityand the sea level plains terrain where the speeds hover around 70-85 kmph, my rides both front and rear brakes have crossed 22,000 kms and according to SVC will still go for another 5-6,000 kms. So the lifespan of brakes depends on your riding style and the terrain as well.

@Mik & Luke: Yeah guys this wrong notion of applying brake exists in India.. just so you know.

Cheers,

To tell you honestly: I am not sure! I asked for 35w, 5000K . Both work simultaneouly from stock (standard for export it seems...?). Should effectively be that color temperature (very white) but not sure on the wattage. I shall have a "look behind" soon as the bike is (again) in the workshop). For the lights: so long, so good anyway!

One thing important is to be known about the High Intensity Discharge bulbs: they (and their ballast) just hate being switched on and off, like when using the "pass" switch, for example, which reduces tremendously their lifetime. There is no problem in the other hand in switching between low and high since it is only a small shade, or mask, that moves inside, and is made for that.

I ride sanely using both the brakes simultaneously (F:R = 60:40) mostly within 35-50 kmph in traffic(40 % of my riding),less than 35 in local areas - you guys know Indian roads(50% of my riding) & occasionaly 90+ in weekends (not all though)(10% of my riding).
The marker on the bike also shows signs that the brake has worn 50-60%.
Also everyday in the morning when I start riding the screeching sound is almost unbearable for the ears... A pathetic sound.

I ride sanely using both the brakes simultaneously (F:R = 60:40) mostly within 35-50 kmph in traffic(40 % of my riding),less than 35 in local areas - you guys know Indian roads(50% of my riding) & occasionaly 90+ in weekends (not all though)(10% of my riding).
The marker on the bike also shows signs that the brake has worn 50-60%.
Also everyday in the morning when I start riding the screeching sound is almost unbearable for the ears... A pathetic sound.
Help me out to use multi quote buddy..