Do you use the choke regularly? If not, there are chances that, the choke might not be working properly and will stall the bike.

Also, regarding the response, as others have mentioned check those things and check for the play in the accelerator wire.

Cheerz!!

I don't use choke at all..gotta check the things mentioned here.lets see. How to understand that the clutch plate needs to be replaced?

Erm one correction.. Motul 5100 is an SS grade engine oil and in FZ has a life of upto 2500-3500 kms based on riding style and not 5000 kms (Muztariq please correct me if i am wrong on this!!). If you ride your bike on engine oil which cannot lubricate anymore due to over usage or ageing then chances are the piston and the piston rings have gone kaput which is the reason of so much oil consumption. Regarding the gears being hard to shift with the change in engine oil...it is happening because the old oil due to over running had deposited a huge amount of gum on gears and other parts. Thus, now the new oil is slowly chipping away these layers having the lubricating, cleaning and scrubbing properties.. ride her for a few 100 kms and see. i had also faced the same issue even with 300V when after almost 6 months of celibacy i got her back to life and changed the oil with new can of 300V.. first few 100 kms she was unbelievably hard on gear shifts but later became the usual butter smooth with engine vibes and overall gear shifts.

Keep an eye on the engine oil. If the there is a sudden dip then the signs are clear and culprit behind the engine noise will be either damaged valve seats or the piston and piston rings itself. BTW the life of engine oil is not just with how many kms you do clock on your bike but also with the duration it stays inside the engine. It will start to oxidise and lose its lubrication properties as the oil starts ageing due to exposure to various elements. I feel the old service centre didn't do a good job installing the clutch mechanism assembly which resulted in fine circular rings like the SVC guys at Kamla Yamaha, Sewree showed you. Make sure that you interact only with the head mechanic Rakesh whenever dealing with bike problems..

Cheers,

Hi SHV 18,

Thanks for your wonderful guidance. Wanted to ask you what was the reason for the carbon deposition in the oil when i had the engine completely flushed at the svc. That chap at sewree SVC didnt answer ma question which left me blank on it. I know that fine engine wear and tear over a period of time causes blackness in the engine oil but this time it was gross. Also, i had 2500 km on odo with the current engine oil which means i didnt override ma bike with the burnt out oil. I did around 200km after the servicing and checked the oil level which is still there at the level and the oil is also clean, not even a trace of blackness. But the sound is still there. Do i need to get the cam chain tensioner fastened with one or two clicks or replacing it. Is there any way i can show my bike to you in person and then maybe you can suggest me something in a much concrete way.

Small Doubt here.
I have Bought 1 litre of Shell Ax-7 10w-40 Semi synthetic oil for my Fz16.
As i have to change the Oil filter, i need 100 ml more, But i dont have extra 100 ml of Shell Ax-7.
I have 100 ml of MOTUL 3100 Gold 20w-50.
So Can i add it with Shell Ax-7 ??
Will it be safe to add 100 ml of 20w-50 grade Motul 3100 oil with 1 Litre of 10w-40 grade Shell Ax7 ??

Small Doubt here.
I have Bought 1 litre of Shell Ax-7 10w-40 Semi synthetic oil for my Fz16.
As i have to change the Oil filter, i need 100 ml more, But i dont have extra 100 ml of Shell Ax-7.
I have 100 ml of MOTUL 3100 Gold 20w-50.
So Can i add it with Shell Ax-7 ??
Will it be safe to add 100 ml of 20w-50 grade Motul 3100 oil with 1 Litre of 10w-40 grade Shell Ax7 ??

Hi Touseef,
It's better to address your queries in engine oil thread.
I'm just sharing my experience during recent ride. While returning back from Goa, the oil level went down below minimum. But since I could not get Motul 300v (15W50) oil, I bought MAK 4 NXT (20w40) & poured into the engine. After that I drove close to 750 kms or more, the only problem I faced was change in the oil level after every (~)100 kms of ride & but after some time, when the ratio of NXT became more, the level was quite stable.
With that I rode last 400 kms in day light but found no change in the oil level. Felt no change in engine temp or vibrations. Actually vibrations were reduced. There was very little foaming I observed on dipstick. When I returned to Mumbai, I simply changed the oil back to 300v.
So according to me it's safe to add different grades of oils (meant for similar use & specification, both will average out the benefits of each other). But it should be done only when required & there is no other choice. Don't leave it to chance. I believe 100ml of 20w50 will not cause a great change in the properties of 10w50. In my case proportion was more.
In your case why don't you buy another can of Shell, you can always use it later.

No need of extra 100 ml when changing oil filter. You just need to soak the filter, that's all and it takes just 20 ml for the job.

Oh. is it so bro?
Just 20 ml?

1100 ml is the total capacity. You need that only when engine is opened and everything drained.

Guys 2 concerns.....


1. what is factory settings for Yamaha FZ/Fazer carb air-screw??.... is it 2.5 turns or 3 ???

2. My bike's center stand is completely rusted and m not able to put my bike on center stand as the protrusion where we stamp is bent completely. Is the center stand covered under warranty? Can i get it replaced from SVC for free??

Center stand bending would come under normal wear n tear.rusting issue depends on how old the bike is.