AND this is a debate of Yamaha FZ-S engine oil (20w40 or 20w50 or 15w50), Shell is not available in these grades, so no choice to pour shell advance ultra which is suitable only for Hero & Honda's.
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Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Yamaha FZ16, FZ-S & Fazer recommends to use 20w40 or 20w50 and this is boldly written on User Manual, and if you pour 10w40 FS oil in FZ-S or P220 (not CBR250R), you may find leakage as well as less drain interval, because the later oil is thin.Originally posted by sanjaysangar1990 View Post
AND this is a debate of Yamaha FZ-S engine oil (20w40 or 20w50 or 15w50), Shell is not available in these grades, so no choice to pour shell advance ultra which is suitable only for Hero & Honda's.Last edited by saikatbyte; 07-20-2016, 08:39 AM.Regards
Saikat
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Yamaha now recommends 10w40 (even for r15).Originally posted by saikatbyte View PostYamaha FZ16, FZ-S & Fazer recommends to use 20w40 or 20w50 and this is boldly written on User Manual, and if you pour 10w40 FS oil in FZ-S or P220 (not CBR250R), you may find leakage as well as less drain interval, because the later oil is thin.#RetiredRider
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Before it became mainstream in India, there used to be 10w40 and first few bottles I used were 10w40, bought from Motul dealer.Originally posted by Freak inExile View PostIn India, when?
However, check this:
5100 10w30 : Motul 5100-4t-10w30
5100 10w40 : Motul 5100-4t-10w40
5100 15w50 : Motul 5100-4t-10w40
Label on the bottle says JASO MA2 but technical data-sheet say JASO MA !!!#RetiredRider
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Exactly, 300v last long, but Motul aren't best suited to Honda's, or Hero;s, they are suited mostly between Pulsar's, KTM.s, Yamaha's.Originally posted by Shashank K R View PostThere's not much difference between Motul 5100 and 300V in terms of performance in our small capacity bikes. Heck, I feel full synthetic is not needed for small capacity bikes.
But yes, 300V can last long, but only in ideal conditions. I don't know if you would believe it, but my friend used 300V on his Unicorn Dazzler for 8700kms. When drained it still had it's green color and there was negligible evaporation and no leaks. I know it isn't good to use oil for that long. In fact the oil still had life, but I advised him to change it.
All bikes behave differently to different oil. We can't say how a FZ or 220 will like 300V. 300V maybe the most technologically advanced oil, but we can't say it's the best.
for Honda, ELF Moto 4 XT Tech is a gem (smoothest) & Shell Advance Ultra (Best)
for Pulsars, Yamaha, Motul 5100, 300v are best, but 7100 is not bad (20w50 for Pulsars)Regards
Saikat
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
You can decrease the 1st value for better cold starts, e.g. if your bike manufacturer recomnends 10w30, you can use 5w30 also for better cold starts for winter, but not recommended to use in Summer as the 5w30 oil is thinner than 10w30.Originally posted by sanjaysangar1990 View PostAFAIK, you are not supposed to change the value which comes before the W which means you can change the latter value.
And, you can increase the 2nd value for better summer highway triple digit cruising, suited to use in summer, like 10w40 (shell advance ultra) than OEM Honda 10w30. Though CBR250R is liquid cooled, so no need to change it 10w40 as the bike will become sluggish after pouring 10w40.Regards
Saikat
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
So it's imported in India, but have not seen it in Bengaluru(at least Motul dealer here didn't stock them).Originally posted by deville_56 View Post5100 10W40. This I bought back in 2011. Used to buy the same 10W40 for a friend's Unicorn till may be 2014 or 2015.Last edited by Freak inExile; 07-21-2016, 06:05 AM.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Even now Motul is imported onlyOriginally posted by Freak inExile View PostSo it's imported in India, but have not seen it in Bengaluru(at least Motul dealer here didn't stock them).
. Earlier used to be made in France, now made in Vietnam.
#RetiredRider
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Hi bros, Any one please help me !
I own FZ-S 2012 model clocked 27800kms. I faced a issue of the idling like the RPM goes up and down while driving and also when it is idle.this happen if RPM goes above 3000,.
I showed to the SVC guys they said decarbonisation has to be done and it cost rs.17K , so for a second opinion went to a mechanic nearby and he said valve and timing chain has to be change and he did and I asked him to change Spark plug, chain sprocket and air filter.Total bill amount is Rs.5500.
After that too my bike became very hard and while driving even after I down the accelerator fully.. RPM is not coming down but if I put the brake its coming down, its like engine is starving for fuel. The mechanic said drive for 1000kms and will tappet.
The mileage is also not improved I used to get 47kmpl before this idling problem starts now only 22-25kmpl.
I am in North Bangalore right now, please suggest me some good mechanic in Bangalore to rectify this issue.
I will be happy if my FZ-S becomes normal.
Thanks
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Re: Yamaha FZ-16/ FZ-S
Originally posted by Subramani21 View PostHi bros, Any one please help me !
I own FZ-S 2012 model clocked 27800kms. I faced a issue of the idling like the RPM goes up and down while driving and also when it is idle.this happen if RPM goes above 3000,.
I showed to the SVC guys they said decarbonisation has to be done and it cost rs.17K , so for a second opinion went to a mechanic nearby and he said valve and timing chain has to be change and he did and I asked him to change Spark plug, chain sprocket and air filter.Total bill amount is Rs.5500.
After that too my bike became very hard and while driving even after I down the accelerator fully.. RPM is not coming down but if I put the brake its coming down, its like engine is starving for fuel. The mechanic said drive for 1000kms and will tappet.
The mileage is also not improved I used to get 47kmpl before this idling problem starts now only 22-25kmpl.
I am in North Bangalore right now, please suggest me some good mechanic in Bangalore to rectify this issue.
I will be happy if my FZ-S becomes normal.
Thanks
I had a similar issue and culprit was a rusted choke cable, which never shuts properly, not sure the same issue here.
AFAIK, 28k km is too short for a timing chain, especially on a Yammy. I changed it 1L as precaution and a friend runs R15 with factory fitted chain clocking 1L+ km.
I paid 300 for decarb and 250 for valve setting at SVC in 2015. 1.7k seems higher.#RetiredRider
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